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Posted (edited)

 

 

 

Edited by Brutalform
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Is the T-Bolt the correct wheelbase?  Might be an easier conversion.

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Thunderbolt is considerably shorter.

 

I think it was missing link made this car in sedan body style. 

There was a  plastic kit made back then ( maybe a promo )  ,,,only needs the sedan window frames added ( I have one to do just that )

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Posted (edited)

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Edited by Brutalform
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Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2018 at 10:38 AM, gtx6970 said:

Thunderbolt is considerably shorter.

 

I think it was missing link made this car in sedan body style. 

There was a  plastic kit made back then ( maybe a promo )  ,,,only needs the sedan window frames added ( I have one to do just that )

Edited by Brutalform

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Btw... this build has been on the bench for several months. So I have patience... lol 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, afx said:

Is the T-Bolt the correct wheelbase?  Might be an easier conversion.

 

2 hours ago, gtx6970 said:

Thunderbolt is considerably shorter.

The Fairlane/Thunderbolt is much shorter as you say Bill, but not only that, the Fairlane is a unibody and the Galaxie/300 has a frame so it woun't work anyway.
So the '60 Starliner chassis is the way to go.

Edited by Force

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1 hour ago, Brutalform said:

Yea, maybe put this resin body aside and get a styrene “promo” kit like the one you posted. Are they styrene, or are they like a different kind of plastic. I’d be afraid to running into the same problem with putty not drying even after two weeks. I’d hate to buy yet another one to have the same problems. 

Yes, they are stryene.

I have a stryene builder kit( little tougher to find than the promo.

 

finding a distressed promo is easier ,,,and typically cheaper

$35 to $40 is about right. You can find them for less, but condition usually dictates lower price . There is one on ebay now for less, but has missing A pillars

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Ford-Galaxie-2dr-Hardtop-Promo-car/202308929382?hash=item2f1a8d4766:g:SBkAAOSw~RFa8ziC

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Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2018 at 2:09 PM, gtx6970 said:

Yes, they are stryene.

I have a stryene builder kit( little tougher to find than the promo.

 

finding a distressed promo is easier ,,,and typically cheaper

$35 to $40 is about right. You can find them for less, but condition usually dictates lower price . There is one on ebay now for less, but has missing A pillars

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Ford-Galaxie-2dr-Hardtop-Promo-car/202308929382?hash=item2f1a8d4766:g:SBkAAOSw~RFa8ziC

Edited by Brutalform

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Force said:

 

The Fairlane/Thunderbolt is much shorter as you say Bill, but not only that, the Fairlane is a unibody and the Galaxie/300 has a frame so it woun't work anyway.
So the '60 Starliner chassis is the way to go.

Yes.. A Fairlane chassis is not an option. I already got some work into this with the Starliner chassis. I use this chassis for all the Galaxies up to 65. Then they switched to coil springs, if I’m not mistaken. 

C38A956F-57C7-4E85-9928-EEB5009AB48C.jpeg

04EB48D1-766D-48D9-977A-8AD3EE6CAEE7.jpeg

Edited by Brutalform

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Just now, Brutalform said:

Thanks Bill... I would think removing the trim, and rear quarter stripes would be a lot easier on a styrene body. I dunno... I guess when I can find a decent promo, that might be the way to go. And just build something else with the resin box top. 

Just hit me, and something to keep in mind. The kit ( if you can find one ) the hood is open. On a promo the hood will be molded in. And will require a bit more work . BUT its very doable. ( I did one on a blueprinter version of the galaxie I have stashed away )

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Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2018 at 2:33 PM, gtx6970 said:

Just hit me, and something to keep in mind. The kit ( if you can find one ) the hood is open. On a promo the hood will be molded in. And will require a bit more work . BUT its very doable. ( I did one on a blueprinter version of the galaxie I have stashed away )

Edited by Brutalform

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Posted (edited)

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Edited by Brutalform
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If you still have the ruined resin body, why don't you try some two-part automotive putty putty on it in a discreet location. If it works, you might even be able to save the first body shell. Good Luck!

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Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2018 at 5:44 PM, FrankO said:

If you still have the ruined resin body, why don't you try some two-part automotive putty putty on it in a discreet location. If it works, you might even be able to save the first body shell. Good Luck!

Edited by Brutalform

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I generally use JB Weld for my rough bodywork on both resin and styrene, then modeling putty for finishing. It is pretty strong and seems to add some amount of rigidity. 

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I will be watching this build

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Sounds like you are having a real dilemma.  Other than what has already been suggested my only thoughts would be to very carefully begin sanding and pay very close attention to body thickness.  As far as the ghosting, once the trim is sanded away spread a layer of thin super-glue, let it dry thoroughly then smooth it out with fine sandpaper.  I have never tried this process, but have read on this and other forums it works quite well.  Good luck with it.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/20/2018 at 7:52 AM, TarheelRick said:

Sounds like you are having a real dilemma.  Other than what has already been suggested my only thoughts would be to very carefully begin sanding and pay very close attention to body thickness.  As far as the ghosting, once the trim is sanded away spread a layer of thin super-glue, let it dry thoroughly then smooth it out with fine sandpaper.  I have never tried this process, but have read on this and other forums it works quite well.  Good luck with it.

Edited by Brutalform

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Brutalform, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get that resin body? Who makes it?  Thanks for your time & info on this.   Hack-n-whack  AKA Tom

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Posted (edited)
On 5/29/2018 at 3:43 PM, hack-n-whack said:

Brutalform, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get that resin body? Who makes it?  Thanks for your time & info on this.   Hack-n-whack  AKA Tom

Edited by Brutalform
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