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Ladies and Gentlemen: My C7R: 2016 Daytona winner


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    It is finally done!  This is an important project for me, as this is the first complex model I finish since early 2009!  

The 54th Rolex 24 Hours Race at Daytona was held on January  28–31  2016.
One of the most popular classes in IMSA is the GTLM, where factory teams throw it all for bragging rights.  Corvettes, Porsches, Ferraris, BMWs and Ford GTs started the race hoping to win.  
That year, after 23 hours and 45 minutes, the 2 Corvettes were up front leading in class when they were told on the radio: "You are OK to Race! Keep it clean, No Risks",  setting the stage for an epic battle between teammates Oliver Gavin in car #4 and Antonio Garcia in car #3. The last 15 minutes were basically a close sprint race. The closest it could be without contact.  The last lap was a drag race between both cars.  At the checkered flag, Gavin in car #4 won by only .034 seconds over a 24 hour race!

For 2016 there were substantial changes in the regulations, making the 2016 cars quite different from the 2014-2015 seasons.  Why is this relevant?  Revell released the C7R model with decals for the 2016 winner, but the model represents a 2014-2015 car.  Many modifications were required to update the model to 2016 specs.
  Unfortunately this model did not cooperate. It fought all the way with frustrating fit issues and many other problems.  It is probably the most frustrating and disappointing model I've done.  There are a few details I'm not happy with and a few missing details here and there but I just wanted this over!
This was also my first time weathering a car.  The intention is to represent the car as it rolled into Victory lane. Weathering is easily overdone so I tried to control it. 

You can see the model's progress thread here:

Some of the modifications include:

-Reworked hood
-New front splitter with side aero fences
-Added dive planes
-Added pitot tubes and housing
-Replaced rocker panels with updated ones
-New rear spoiler brackets
-Updated rear spoiler end plates 
-Reworked rear end with diffuser and aero modifications
-Reworked front grille and driving lights assembly
-Added camera dome in correct location plus antenna and transponder
-Fully detailed engine wasted because nothing fits. Top of the engine had to be removed for the hood to fit. The model is essentially now a curbside.
-Tons of Interior mods and details added (screens, wiring, belts, displays, nets, paddle shifters, water cooler, etc.) but nothing is seen from outside
-Added position numbering indication panels

Here is my story: Before the race, I did the prep of the car and told them to bring it to my shop right after the race to wash and clean it.   (Took pictures of it before the weathering in case it was ruined).

Before the race:



















AFTER the race: (Weathering)









































In this link you can see that battle and the finish of the race.  Over 2 years later, I still get goosebumps watching it!


Hope you like it!  What do you think?


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Thanks guys!  

Chris, Box stock will definitely be easier.  Just make sure the engine allows the hood to close and that the body sits properly in the chassis.


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On 5/30/2018 at 7:30 AM, Amar2300 said:

Absolute perfection.. Just wow...

May i ask how you did the weathering ?

Thank you all for your nice comments!  I really appreciate it!
I have received a few inquiries on the weathering.  I'll do my best to explain.  First of all, a big THANK YOU to Jim Drew for his guidance and encouragement, as this was my first attempt at this.

Since the model was painted with lacquer and the decals were sealed under 2K clear, the finish is quite durable. This is good because the weathering can be done with craft acrylics and if something goes wrong it can easily be removed.  In theory, this car can be washed ?

Before you do anything, make sure you study and understand the weathering on your subject.  A race car weathers very differently than say a 4x4 truck on a dirt trail.   In this particular case, the car raced for 24 hours. There was some rain but not a downpour like other years (2001 Daytona Rolex 24  comes to mind as it was almost a boat race).  The car ended up dirty at the nose and the bulging rear fenders, but the roof, back and doors were not as dirty at the end. Also, the car did about 25 pit stops. The windshield was always cleaned during pit stops, so the windshield is relatively clean.  The tires are also changed frequently, so the wheels and tires only see a few hours of action so they don't get as dirty as the nose of the car.

I used craft acrylic brown.  I added a few drops of black to the brown I had just to darken it a bit.  This was diluted in windshield washer fluid  for airbrushing.  I did a quick test run on a diecast body just to get a feel for it. I increased the pressure of the airbrush from around the usual  25psi to about 30-35.  I airbrushed a very light coat head on from a little more distance than usual. About a foot away.  The idea is to be so light you can barely notice it.  A few more coats from head on as low as possible similar to a wind tunnel test scenario.  A few coats at about 45 degrees to each side, 2 or 3 passes on the sides, 1 on the roof and 1 on the rear.  While still wet, I cleaned the windshield with a wet  Q-tip in the same pattern the windshield was cleaned in the pit stops: side to side so there might be a barely noticeable hint of cleaning streaks. After a few minutes to allow it to dry a bit, I put a small amount of black paint on a old hard bristle toothbrush, flicking the bristles so the black paint would splatter on the car.  I did that forward of the rear wheels and front corners.  Again, very little paint so it is barely visible. The idea is to build up in multiple passes.  Some of that got in places I did not want it, so it was quickly wiped clean with a Q-tip.   After that dried for a few minutes, I took a wide flat brush and dry brushed some black paint to represent rub marks and other random streaks.  Finally, I lightly dry brushed some of the dark brown mix left in the jar on the wheels and tires.

Words of CAUTION:

-This is very easy to overdo.  When you think you are getting there, STOP! You are already passed there.

-I found myself fighting the urge to be symmetrical.  The random patterns on the left should not repeat on the right.

Make sure small parts are securely attached.  I was worried about the antenna but it turned out one of the front splitter's aero pieces flew off with a burst of the airbrush.  It was quickly re attached but if you are not paying attention it may go un-noticed.

Most importantly: HAVE FUN!

Hope this helps.

I'll submit this to the MCM magazine as an article....


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Thanks everybody!

I was asked about the exhaust. It is aluminum tubing carefully squezzed to make it oval. The location was opened in the body. Metallic tape (similar to BMF) was used for the heat shield.

If you stare at it long enough and then close your eyes you can hear it... ?


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