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    • Dave Ambrose

      Board Status   07/20/2018

      I'm scheduling a maintenance window tonight starting at 9PM Pacific Daylight time. Might be down for a while, so you west coasters should plan on building something tonight. 
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gtx6970

Corvette guys. need some advice

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Ok,

Ive found the decals to do this car. But cant find a resin body so I am thinking make my own.

 

Where is this car stretched. I cant tell if its in front of or behind the side gills, or both

 

21c0d08da7f79aba48bc431f67915f43.jpg

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Bill, I'm at work and can't see your pic (blocked). What car is it?

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9 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Bill, I'm at work and can't see your pic (blocked). What car is it?

The Marv Eldridge 1967 Corvette funnycar

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It appears to me the majority of the stretch is in the door area.

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31 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

The Marv Eldridge 1967 Corvette funnycar

Ah, okay.

Did some googling. Found you a resin body, but it's from the comically misnamed "Reliable Resin," so, never mind.

It's definitely stretched ahead of the gills. Possibly a bit behind, too.

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Looks like a little bit through the doors, and a bit in the front fenders both in front of, and behind, the gills.  The elongated rear wheel openings help draw attention away from the front end stretch.  Looking there, I'm wondering if a couple of inches weren't added behind the door area as well, just above the rear wheel openings.  They did a great job on it, it really flows nicely.

   

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Next question.

Anyone know of a reliable source for a body and hood ,. Fortunately that's all I need

Or the best option to make my own. It has to be 1/25th scale .

 

Im not a vette guy by any stretch.

But Ive always thought this particular car was one of the best looking funnies of the period

Edited by gtx6970

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1 minute ago, gtx6970 said:

Next question.

Anyone know of a reliable source for a body and hood ,. Fortunately that's all I need

Or the best option to make my own. It has to be 1/25th scale .

I assume you don't want to scratchbuild those '67 gills. So....

I'd start with a Revell '67 roadster body--a cheap glue bomb if you can find one. Chop off the front end just behind the front wheel openings and throw it away (its shape is wrong anyway). Now get a cheap Revell snapper '63 body--roadster or coupe, doesn't matter, and again a glue bomb will work just fine--and figure out how much of the front end of that you need to chop to give you the length you need. Glue it on and blend it all in. Don't forget to fill the vents/louver indentations in the '63 hood (which is molded with the body on the snapper '63s).

That'll get you started. Others might be able to help more with the tonneau and related bodywork.

Do you have a wheelbase dimension on the car? That would be helpful. I believe an old Car Craft magazine did a story on the car, but unfortunately I don't have it.

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14 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I assume you don't want to scratchbuild those '67 gills. So....

I'd start with a Revell '67 roadster body--a cheap glue bomb if you can find one. Chop off the front end just behind the front wheel openings and throw it away (its shape is wrong anyway). Now get a cheap Revell snapper '63 body--roadster or coupe, doesn't matter, and again a glue bomb will work just fine--and figure out how much of the front end of that you need to chop to give you the length you need. Glue it on and blend it all in. Don't forget to fill the vents/louver indentations in the '63 hood (which is molded with the body on the snapper '63s).

That'll get you started. Others might be able to help more with the tonneau and related bodywork.

Do you have a wheelbase dimension on the car? That would be helpful. I believe an old Car Craft magazine did a story on the car, but unfortunately I don't have it.

Yes, I would prefer to not have to make my own gills . Looking around ebay this morning I got to  thinking the best route might be to combine 2 different year bodies.

All I need is the body(s) and hood(s)

 

And No I dont have the wheelbase in front of me right now, but can probably dig that up without to much effort ( I have a 4 drawer file cabinet full of vintage magazines I can sift thru if need be)

 

 

Marv-Eldridge67.jpg

Edited by gtx6970

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There's this thing called "scaling from known data", and it beats the bejesus out of conjecture and opinions.

Since you have a very good profile shot, you can print it and use the known diameters of the wheels to establish a scale for the photo, and get fairly good measurements using that.

Though the accuracy may be slightly off, the proportions will be pretty much spot on, and a little intelligent massaging of the numbers to coincide with the known dimensions on whatever body shell you decide to start with will get you very close indeed...closer than many kit manufacturers and resin casters seem to be able to manage.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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That's about as good a profile shot of a '67 Vette as I've ever seen. Sweet!

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I'll dig thru my magazine pile this weekend and see if I can find a build article on the car.

All I can find online is pictures . Once I know wheelbase I'll know how much to stretch the body .

Looks like the front of the blower is dead even with the base of where the windshield frame would have been. And to my eye the body appears to be stock from the base of the windshield to the back end of the body.  I have a member offered to send me a couple 67 bodies to get the front clip from. Just need to come up  with a body ( or 2 ) for the doors back

 

If I can find where I saw the decals for it. I would like to do the Nicky car as well ( pretty much exact same car )

 

 

Nickey-67Vette.jpg

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48 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

I'll dig thru my magazine pile this weekend and see if I can find a build article on the car.

I'm pretty sure Car Craft did it in 1967, or maybe very late '66 or very early '68, complete with one of those cool "x-ray" drawings they'd do.

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1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

I'm pretty sure Car Craft did it in 1967, or maybe very late '66 or very early '68, complete with one of those cool "x-ray" drawings they'd do.

I seem to remember an article like that done for the Don Kirby car. ??????

Gonna dig thru the magazines maybe later tonight and see waht I come up with .

 

Will that molded in purple snap kit work for the back half

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43 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

Will that molded in purple snap kit work for the back half

Yes. Would also work for the front half. In fact, would work MUCH better for the front half than the Revell '67 roadster kit, which has visibly misformed front fenders. Use the '67 for the gills back, and the snap '63 for the extended front forward. 

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46 minutes ago, gtx6970 said:

I seem to remember an article like that done for the Don Kirby car. ??????

Now that you mention it, it might have been. 

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Let's compare...

21c0d08da7f79aba48bc431f67915f43.jpg.ec47f54cbf1b253964df10716ca30adf.jpg

82175_Side_Profile_Web.jpg.272f7fbf3391d4a862459800cfb4c531.jpg

Judging them side by side and without a ruler, it looks like the rear fender bulge is stretched a little and the door area looks longer too. Since the body is split in this area, you could use two bodies for this and not have to putty the seam.

I would also have to say the front bulges were also stretched and recontoured too. And material added to the area in front of the gills.

I would try to use two bodies for all of the stretching. Starting with the first body sliced vertically through the middle of the doors. This will be the line where the real body separates.

Marv-Eldridge67.jpg.a83fe38492a12af780d3490c716747cd.jpg.f2218b46f281e45572b262e787a9e0da.jpg

Then use the second body, cut off the body right below the horizontal peak of the sides. Cut the line straight from wheelwell to wheelwell and save this area for later.

Next, make another vertical cut on the doors of the body farther back to make the door stretch. You might be able to get away without having to recontour the front bulges, if this makes the wheel base correct.

Next step reinstall the bottom body panel back on the front half of the body, but glue it several scale inches back to reposition the gills farther rearward. Use a matching filler piece from the first body you cut to make the stretch in the front of the gills to the front wheel openings. 

Lastly, carefully measure your cuts above the rear wheelwells of the first body and add the stretch from the now scrap backhalf of the second body to make the longer bulge area above the rear wheels. Measure carefully to minimize putty and use step cuts for strength.

Hope this helps, if you can't find the body you're looking for and end up having to make it yourself.

BTW - Does anyone else but me find it kind of amusing to see door handles on a funny car with no doors?

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I just did a quick overlay of those two images.  It looks as if the respective front and rear fender bulges match up well with the stock body, so the length was added in the doors.  The gills are moved back so the rear edge is about where the door line would have been.  With the door handles lined up, the rear axle appears to be in the stock location relative to the body, with the wheelwell enlarged all round.

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12 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Let's compare...

21c0d08da7f79aba48bc431f67915f43.jpg.ec47f54cbf1b253964df10716ca30adf.jpg

82175_Side_Profile_Web.jpg.272f7fbf3391d4a862459800cfb4c531.jpg

Judging them side by side and without a ruler, it looks like the rear fender bulge is stretched a little and the door area looks longer too. Since the body is split in this area, you could use two bodies for this and not have to putty the seam.

I would also have to say the front bulges were also stretched and recontoured too. And material added to the area in front of the gills.

I would try to use two bodies for all of the stretching. Starting with the first body sliced vertically through the middle of the doors. This will be the line where the real body separates.

Marv-Eldridge67.jpg.a83fe38492a12af780d3490c716747cd.jpg.f2218b46f281e45572b262e787a9e0da.jpg

Then use the second body, cut off the body right below the horizontal peak of the sides. Cut the line straight from wheelwell to wheelwell and save this area for later.

Next, make another vertical cut on the doors of the body farther back to make the door stretch. You might be able to get away without having to recontour the front bulges, if this makes the wheel base correct.

Next step reinstall the bottom body panel back on the front half of the body, but glue it several scale inches back to reposition the gills farther rearward. Use a matching filler piece from the first body you cut to make the stretch in the front of the gills to the front wheel openings. 

Lastly, carefully measure your cuts above the rear wheelwells of the first body and add the stretch from the now scrap backhalf of the second body to make the longer bulge area above the rear wheels. Measure carefully to minimize putty and use step cuts for strength.

Hope this helps, if you can't find the body you're looking for and end up having to make it yourself.

BTW - Does anyone else but me find it kind of amusing to see door handles on a funny car with no doors?

 

5 hours ago, dodgefever said:

I just did a quick overlay of those two images.  It looks as if the respective front and rear fender bulges match up well with the stock body, so the length was added in the doors.  The gills are moved back so the rear edge is about where the door line would have been.  With the door handles lined up, the rear axle appears to be in the stock location relative to the body, with the wheel well enlarged all round.

Guys, This helps A LOT . I think doing it this way is about the only way to get it to look right. I'm not after 1000% dead nuts on. But as close as I can with a reasonable effort.

still need to get to the file cabinet and see if I have a build article on either this or the Don Kirby car ( same basic car )

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BTW, I have a couple Revell 67 fastback bodies enroute from member Muncie  ( thanks Steve  )

I already have a Revell 63 roadster kit here

Once all is in hand, I'll do some measuring and see if the 2 bodies will mate up without much effort

Edited by gtx6970

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Okay, I just attacked the two images above with dial caliper, calculator, and Snake-Fu Math. Won't bore you with the details, but my conclusions are:

The funny wheelbase is somewhere around 104-105". (Stock '67 wheelbase is 98.0".)

The front fender gills are in stock location (relative to the rear of the car, not the front). Notice material has been added ahead of the gills. 

The front fender bulges are definitely longer on the funny than on the stock car. They're hard to measure exactly, so I can't give you an exact dimension, but the funny front bulges are definitely longer than stock. The extension has been incorporated into the factory lines so smoothly that it's really hard to see. 

The Revell '67 and '63 bodies SHOULD be compatible as far as width, cross-section, etc. 

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What I'm thinking I'll do is exactly whats mentioned above. But I think I will leave the front fender humps alone. I can see them being a ROYAL PIA to make right .

I'll have some free time once our house is  done and listed.  At least maybe a little bit . But once it sells it'll be months,,maybe even a year or more  before I get to do any modeling

And I have a couple nearly complete builds I want to finish up simply to make them easier  to pack and travel across country.  If I get them done, I'll work on this Vette body. I'm planning to use a modified  Polar lights chassis under it

 

And btw, Ive looked thru all my vintage magazines and don't have anything detail wise for either one of these cars.

I did find a cut away picture of the Don Kirby car but it doesn't specify the wheelbase

 

DonKirby67Corvette.jpg

nickey-vette.jpg

Edited by gtx6970

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