1976 Ford Econoline Custom Van Phantom with Custom Trailer

[Spezial Grade]

Hi guys. I've bought this kit to try to build an "all open" custom van,

with carpeted interiors, and a custom trailer based on the metal one I have,

which is way too heavy:

 

And here's the copy, just with a little more room for the wheels:

 

And here are the fenders, I've glued two sheets of heavy paper, and sanded it.

I wanna finish it like raw metal, without painting:

 

With the twin wheels:

 

Current state:

 

I've found the right plastic rod, so I can hook up the ramps like they were supposed to be:

 

Next step, external hinges like these ones, which will be sanded and replaced with working ones:

 

And build a rail to let the door slide out, also because I'm installing the wide fenders kit:

 

If you have any input or link for the sliding door, it would be greatly appreciated.

I'm still undecided on what to put on the trailer, a ford car or two bikes:

 

Edited June 27, 2018 by Spezial Grade

[Belugawrx]

Welcome Tommy

This is a cool project,..Nice work so far

[Jason Sheer]

Thanks for showing us how you built the trailer! I’m going to build one for my Porsche to be towed by my Bronco ! Track Days !!!

[Steamboat]

Here are some pics of a van I built last year.  It is a model of a 1:1 van I owned in the late 80's.

The sliding door attaches at 3 points: 1) the slot in the quarter panel where it slides above the back wheel, 2) the top of the door frame, and 3) a track on the step which is concealed by a metal plate.  I drilled 3 holes in the back of the door and glued in pieces of wire to simulate the brackets that the door rides on.  The door does not move on the model.

The inside step should be body color, but I screwed up the paint and had to cover it up with flat black.  I think on some of the later years the track was concealed by a black plastic step instead of metal.

You're in for a project.  The step and door sills took a lot of trial and error to get right.  I bet I had that body off and on the frame at least 100 times!  Also remember to check everything for trueness before you start.  As I remember, both the chassis pan and the frame were badly warped right out of the box.  I also had to lower the ride height front and rear.

 

 

 

[Spezial Grade]

19 hours ago, Steamboat said:

Here are some pics of a van I built last year.  It is a model of a 1:1 van I owned in the late 80's.

The sliding door attaches at 3 points: 1) the slot in the quarter panel where it slides above the back wheel, 2) the top of the door frame, and 3) a track on the step which is concealed by a metal plate.  I drilled 3 holes in the back of the door and glued in pieces of wire to simulate the brackets that the door rides on.  The door does not move on the model.

The inside step should be body color, but I screwed up the paint and had to cover it up with flat black.  I think on some of the later years the track was concealed by a black plastic step instead of metal.

You're in for a project.  The step and door sills took a lot of trial and error to get right.  I bet I had that body off and on the frame at least 100 times!  Also remember to check everything for trueness before you start.  As I remember, both the chassis pan and the frame were badly warped right out of the box.  I also had to lower the ride height front and rear.

 

 

 

Hi Steamboat, thanks a lot for the pictures, they are very useful.

 

I'm trying to figure out how to realize one hook of the 3...

 

For this one, I'll just build a shape to slide over that line:

 

For the upper one, under the roof top, I'l build this rail with 2 square styrene sticks,

to let the door hook slide in and move out when opening (van has large fenders):

 

Here's the problem, the hook/sliding system should stay under the door step,

holding the door panel, but sliding also:

 

And yes, you're right about bad fittings...

 

My body isn't very rigid atm because of the cuts, but looks like I'll need a lot of work to make

the inside good looking, especially the doorstep area.

 

Meanwhile I found out the color scheme and the paints came home today... 

I can't believe it was a custom factory one!

 

And the trailer ramps are mounted:

 

I have a balsa wood sheet, 1mm thickness, which in real life is 1 perfect inch (1mm = 1/25 inch).

Could they work with that scheme? I've also bought some double diamond texture ABS sheet:

 

Ciao!

[Spezial Grade]

  Just wood planks didn't look good, so I tried this:

 

It was hard to fit, but I really like how it came out, 1mm square sticks between balsa wood:

 

Ciao!

Edited June 29, 2018 by Spezial Grade

[Spezial Grade]

Made the second one and glued fenders:

[Spezial Grade]

Hello. Another quick update, I've installed the large fenders:

 

And removed the windscreen wipers, which I'll scratchbuild, and tried to remake the grills with a hot needle (needs refinement):

 

I've also removed front door panels:

 

Ready to prime the underside:

 

I used vallejo primer and distilled water, 1 drop of it every 10 of primer:

 

Sorry for the noob question, but are these circular signs to be sandpapered?

I've found a lot on the underside:

 

Thanks.

[espo]

The injector marks are hard to get to. I have a sanding tool that I have used for some time that works perfectly on those. The tool is just over 15 mm long and is spring loaded in the center. A 1mm band of sand paper wraps around the tool and can be moved to expose a new surface as the old area of the sanding strip wears. The spring loaded center section keeps the sand paper in place until you move it. This gives you a 1mm wide sanding stick much like a large pencil to get into areas like you are working with. I have had it so long that I'm not sure where it came from and there is no brand name on the tool. I don't know what your Hobby Supply shops are like but maybe they offer something like this.

[Spezial Grade]

8 hours ago, espo said:

The injector marks are hard to get to. I have a sanding tool that I have used for some time that works perfectly on those. The tool is just over 15 mm long and is spring loaded in the center. A 1mm band of sand paper wraps around the tool and can be moved to expose a new surface as the old area of the sanding strip wears. The spring loaded center section keeps the sand paper in place until you move it. This gives you a 1mm wide sanding stick much like a large pencil to get into areas like you are working with. I have had it so long that I'm not sure where it came from and there is no brand name on the tool. I don't know what your Hobby Supply shops are like but maybe they offer something like this.

Hi. Looks like a tool I saw at a hardware store, it was a sort of electric saw but with sandpaper instead of the chain, but it was big, to be used with 2 hands.

I have a set of little files, they work good, and various sandpaper sticks,

but I want to recycle my old electric OralB toothbrush, cut the brushes and glue some sandpaper on it.

Some friends told me it's very useful for model cars and with regular surfaces.

 

[espo]

2 hours ago, Spezial Grade said:

Hi. Looks like a tool I saw at a hardware store, it was a sort of electric saw but with sandpaper instead of the chain, but it was big, to be used with 2 hands.

I have a set of little files, they work good, and various sandpaper sticks,

but I want to recycle my old electric OralB toothbrush, cut the brushes and glue some sandpaper on it.

Some friends told me it's very useful for model cars and with regular surfaces.

 

I have also thought about the electric tooth brush idea and even purchased the tooth brush part, but that is as far as that has gone. It sounds as though the tool you describe from the hardware store is of the same design, but on a larger scale. I recently got a catalog from Micro-Mark (www.micromark.com) and they offer what they call Micro Sanding Wands that are what I have. Their part number is #81471. They also offer additional sanding belts in 4 different grits, 400, 320, 240, and 120.  The only problem is weather or not they would ship overseas. But after looking at their web sight maybe you can find some local supplier that can get the tool for you. Good luck and keep up the great builds.  

[Oldcarfan27]

On 6/26/2018 at 6:49 PM, Spezial Grade said:

If you have any input or link for the sliding door, it would be greatly appreciated.

Best idea I've seen so far comes from the Revell Vanagon kit. Design is very simple so you should be able to adapt a similar plan for your van.

Guides slide in tracks on the body, the floor and the roof. So the door pops out and slides back, just like the real thing. 

[Markalister]

Hey Tommy, I'm just thinking out loud here.  The pictures of the 1:1 van in the ads you posted show a side "barn door" style setup similar to that on the back of the model kit van.  Not sure how easy or hard it would be to modify the side sliding door into a barn door setup (cut the door in half, change the door handle, make another set of hinges the same as you're making for the back doors - I know that sounds easy when in reality there may be a bit more to it than that) but a barn door setup would eliminate the tricky sliding track and clearance for the fender flare would also be a non-issue.  Just a different option to consider.

Just my 5 cents worth (had to round up - we don't have pennies in Canada anymore)

You're off to a great start though - it's looking good.

Edited July 5, 2018 by Markalister

[Spezial Grade]

8 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Best idea I've seen so far comes from the Revell Vanagon kit. Design is very simple so you should be able to adapt a similar plan for your van.

Guides slide in tracks on the body, the floor and the roof. So the door pops out and slides back, just like the real thing. 

 

Hi, thanks a lot for the input! I didn't know about a T3 model kit, and westfalia too...

In that way it could be placed at the end of the build, you need precise dimensions to fit the door.

The problem is that the van with all the openings isn't very solid, and fittings aren't as good as the t3.

I'll see what I can do:

 

[Spezial Grade]

Hi, another quick update.

I've used some leather vinyl sheet to wrap the seats, and sanded them, to give it a worn look.

I'll dry brush them with some silver:

 

I've also cutted the console under the dashboard, so I could see the engine! 

 

The underside ready for the chassis, this will be the final base color:

 

Next chapter, I got mini hinges (6x8mm closed) and micro magnets (2x1x1mm) in the mail:

 

 

[Spezial Grade]

I've tried some test fitting with campagnolo wheels and tires,

and I've noticed a lot of misalignment:

 

Interiors need some serious work… I'll start adding some side skirts to

give the body proper rigidity:

 

Trying to make a sort of support for supplementary lights:

 

See you next time!

[DumpyDan]

Great work, very detailed I like it.

[Oldcarfan27]

On 7/2/2018 at 2:06 AM, Spezial Grade said:

Sorry for the noob question, but are these circular signs to be sandpapered?

I've found a lot on the underside:

Just to save you some needless work, I don't think those are ejector marks - they look too clean and defined. Besides, they'll most likely be covered by the twin I beam suspension in the kit anyway. So I wouldn't fret worrying about them.

[Sergey]

Hallo Tommy!

Nice work! Didn't you think to make side double door, like on your prototype?

[Spezial Grade]

 

On 13/7/2018 at 12:45 PM, DumpyDan said:

Great work, very detailed I like it.

Hi, thanks!

 

On 13/7/2018 at 4:19 PM, Oldcarfan27 said:

Just to save you some needless work, I don't think those are ejector marks - they look too clean and defined. Besides, they'll most likely be covered by the twin I beam suspension in the kit anyway. So I wouldn't fret worrying about them.

Hi, thanks. I've put suspensions and you don't see them.

 

2 hours ago, Sergey said:

Hallo Tommy!

Nice work! Didn't you think to make side double door, like on your prototype?

Hi, thanks. I was thinking about a single sliding door, and a big window, on both sides.

I don't like visibile hinges showing on sides, like the rear double doors.

But I want to build the sliding system first, then I'll decide.

[rd1959]

On ‎7‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 10:19 AM, Oldcarfan27 said:

Just to save you some needless work, I don't think those are ejector marks - they look too clean and defined. Besides, they'll most likely be covered by the twin I beam suspension in the kit anyway. So I wouldn't fret worrying about them.

I may be wrong but they might be access holes to get tools into a certain area for repairs on the real vehicle. If they are you could drill them out, leaving the ring, for more realism. Please don't take my word for it though.

Edited July 15, 2018 by rd1959

[misterNNL]

Where did that tree of really neat head light lenses come from?

[66belair]

That is some awesome work. Definitely following this thread.