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Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers

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Anyone here have a favorite food dehydrator for paint drying,and food drying also?
I had one of those "Ronco's" and it almost melted the body of the car, This was about 20 years ago, and I never used one again for that purpose.

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Anyone here have a favorite food dehydrator for paint drying,and food drying also?

I had one of those "Ronco's" and it almost melted the body of the car, This was about 20 years ago, and I never used one again for that purpose.

Here are the fine points of this topic:

1) Whatever you choose to use, don't let the temperature exceed 105*F for styrene when curing the paint.

2) For curing paint on resin cast parts, it's a gamble on your part. Some don't recommend heat curing painted resin parts at all and other say 95*F is safe, so try it at your own risk. I tend to agree with Jeff B that curing resin-painted parts should be avoided, just to err on the safe side.

3) Use some form of temperature control for your paint dryer, be it integrated into the dehydrator (best and easiest IMHO), via a rheostat, or via venting. An accurate thermometer is a good tool to have on hand, too, to verify the temp is correct.

4) If you're using a store-bought dehydrator, cut out the horizontal tray grids, leaving the outer rings/walls in place, but DO NOT remove the bottom grid.

5) Remember, the idea (for plastic at least) is to warm things, not bake them. You want to speed up the drying/curing process by increasing the temperature which increases the rate of evaporation of the solvent when using one-part (1K) paints.

6) Don't not use your dehydrator for both model and food use.

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Here is my dehydrator at work. Today, March 12, 2013 was the first time I have ever used a dehydrator to help with the curing process. The paint is Rust-Oleum Black Knight Metallic (2 coats) with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear (2 coats). No polishing or sanding has taken place on this enzo. Hope this helps some people.

About my Dehydrator: Not sure of the brand. Believe it's an El-Cheapo from Wally World. Has a simple On/Off switch (no temp control). I use a Meat Thermometer to help measure the temp of the Dehydrator.

IMG_20130312_115857_zps5e580828.jpg

Excuse the blurriness as the dehydrator was running when I took the picture. The Enzo was in the dehydrator for about 2 hours when I took this picture (after 2nd clear coat).

For me, this was one of those, "How did I ever paint without one?" I really like using one but I highly suggest experimenting before throwing your current project in. Watch your temp (I modified mine so it sits between 100 and 108). Hope this helps someone.

Edited by MikeyB08

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I want to purchase a food dehydrator, but the one I want to buy has one setting and puts out 400 watts. My qusetion is, can I put a dimmer switch on it to control the wattage/temp. with no problem or should I just stop being cheap and buy one that has a temp. control. Any comments and/or suggestions will be graetly apperciated.

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Guest G Holding

Get a copy of bob Downies article.....other mag..... The "cheapie" seem to work great....

You can do the dimmer if it is a "convection / fanless" otherwise , no

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Bought mine at Harbor Freight for $15.00. Best money I've ever spent. I have put tons of bodies and parts in it from almost every major model brand and had ZERO problems. I did add a $2.00 power switch. As long as youre using it to dry model parts and bodies, theres no need for a temp control.

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Mine is an El Cheapo from Wal-Mart. Not control temp or anything. Just a simple On/Off switch. However, I would highly suggest that if you get one without a temp (cheapo) either get a Meat thermometer or find someone that has one you can use. Put your meat thermometer directly on the bottom rack (since it's the lowest part where your model will be) so you know where the temp sets. Let it set for about an hour or two so you know the dehydrator has a good time frame to warm up.

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I was about 12-13 years old when I read in the other mag about these. My folks showed up with a Ronco from Sams Club, same model Harbor Freight carries. The ol gal is now on it's 20th year with me. Every car you see me post all have been in there. Both resin and plastic, new and old. Key is simple. You are not baking a car body but just warming the air around it. Most bodies sit on the third rack and the top vents open. I have always uses Testors paints, no issues with them ever.

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I have found a ton, from $30-$200+. I'm assuming any of them will work, just take the tray out?

I don't want to spend more than I need to, is there a specific issue with the cheaper ones?

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I just bought this one a few days ago. Cheap and simple, been using it every day. It works great! I only wish I had bought one sooner!

http://www.amazon.com/kitchen-dining/dp/B000G20TCQ

It has 5 stackable trays. If you need more room between trays you can take one or two of the trays and cut out the mesh part, leaving just the outer ring that will now act as a spacer between the other trays.

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I just bought this one a few days ago. Cheap and simple, been using it every day. It works great! I only wish I had bought one sooner!

http://www.amazon.com/kitchen-dining/dp/B000G20TCQ

It has 5 stackable trays. If you need more room between trays you can take one or two of the trays and cut out the mesh part, leaving just the outer ring that will now act as a spacer between the other trays.

I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint and I don't like it because it has no temperature control or even an on/off switch. It doesn't even have a power indicator light. I had to plug it into a power strip with one to know if it was on or not. Did I say I liker it? I do.

Dale

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I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint and I don't like it because it has no temperature control or even an on/off switch. It doesn't even have a power indicator light. I had to plug it into a power strip with one to know if it was on or not. Did I say I liker it? I do.

Dale

Like I said... cheap and simple! And it works great. What's not to like? :D

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Ronco! As seen on TV!

And, it slices, dices, rices, and surprises!

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I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint ...

Dale

How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

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Don't forget to check the Salvation Army, thrift stores and second hand shops. I purchased several dehydrators from these type stores. I have a ronco, that I paid $3 for and an american harvest with temp control and fan, I just cut some of the trays out, leaving the outer ring for the height. This American Harvest cost me $8.

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How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

They go from the garage where my paint booth is to my shop right after I spray the last part if it's a body. If its motor parts or whatever, I clean my airbrush first. That takes about five minutes. Lately, I've been using decanted Tamiya and I find that it's about tack free by the time I walk the 20 feet from the garage to the shop. It's all indoors, by the way.

The one thing I don't like about the Ronco is that it has no switch of any kind, not even a power switch. I have to unplug it to turn it off. I fixed that yesterday with a cheap switched power strip.

Dale

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How quickly are you moving your painted parts into the dehydrator?

I actually have my dehydrator running and right after spraying I place the parts right into it

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I actually have my dehydrator running and right after spraying I place the parts right into it

Same here.

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I was about 12-13 years old when I read in the other mag about these. My folks showed up with a Ronco from Sams Club, same model Harbor Freight carries. The ol gal is now on it's 20th year with me. Every car you see me post all have been in there. Both resin and plastic, new and old. Key is simple. You are not baking a car body but just warming the air around it. Most bodies sit on the third rack and the top vents open. I have always uses Testors paints, no issues with them ever.

I've got to agree! You are making this way to complicated. I've had a basic Ronco for close to 20 years now. I cut up and glued the trays to suit me over the years and it works great. No thermostats, on/off switches, blowers, just a basic, basic machine. I have never melted anything in it or ever had any issues. I have a couple of plugs for the top vents to increase the temperature if it is especially cold in the garage. Other than that, it sits on my bench all the time, plugged in and running. I use it to heat my rattle can paint also.

Don't get wrapped around the axle with this. Keep it simple and you will be fine. It is model building, not gourmet cooking.

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Thanks for the answers folks.

It just struck me that if the paint wasn't tacky when the parts went into the dehydrator then dust wouldn't be an issue.

I tend to leave painted parts until I can move then without fear of marking the fresh paint as I find getting them off the paint stand and into the dehydrator impossible without some part of my body or clothing touching tacky paint.

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