alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 I was about 15 When Rod and Custom magazine started featuring the buildup of the Bud Bryan 29 Hiboy. It was one of a number of magazine cars that started the turn away from accessory- festooned resto rods. There was an also equally nostalgic and stunningly detailed hiboy built in a very similar style by Ian McConnell (think I got that right) of Queensland Australia. I got to ride in this car on a balmy spring night in Brisbane many years ago and can still remember the whine of the quick-change as we buzzed along. So while building a model of this car is hardly creative or breaking new ground - I really am building to a well-proven formula here - the release of the Revell Model A hiboy convinced me it was time to tackle this build. I didn't get a lot of build photos of the frame but here is how it ended up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 It is basically the stock kit frame with a few significant changes. The rear crossmember from an AMT 29 frame has been used to replace the fabricated crossmember that Revell used. I then used the axle tubes, spring and radius rods from a Revell 31 Model A Tudor kit, with an unknown resin quick change 3rd member. The front engine mounts were replaced with small stubs to accept the engine crossmember from the Revell 32 Tudor flathead that I used in its entirety. Two tubular braces were added to the stock gearbox crossmember. The top of the front spring crossmember was carefully sliced out to allow the spring to sit lower and the front surface of that same crossmember was filed as flat and thin as I dared, otherwise the grill shell was going to sit far too far forward for my liking. Finally, I filed down the rear surface of the AMT grille shell, again to allow the radiator to sit over the axle centreline as closely as possible. To my eye, this is really important otherwise the whole axle/grille/headlight arrangement is going to be compromised. I had plenty of spare AMT grille shells and radiators which gives a much crisper result than trying to paint a perfect black radiator on the Revell one piece grille. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 I really wanted to nail the wheel and tyre combo otherwise the build was never going to be convincing. I had a set of widened Kelsey Hayes wires from the Monogram 30 woody that I had already painted red but I anguished over whether I should narrow the front set or use say, some AMT wires instead. In the end I chose to narrow them, a nerve wracking experience that could have easily gone bad. As it was, I only just barely made them narrow enough to fit the Revell kit's narrow front tyres. Should I have kept the second wide pair for another project? - we'll never know and it's too late now. In case you are wondering about the rear tyres, I believe they were from a Japanese L&S parts kit. I have had them for decades and this was my last set, a shame as they make great hiboy tyres in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 I needed a pair os shocks to finish up the rear so I dug through my spares box and found these ones. I then drilled out the mounting eyes and used some Evergreen to make the mounts. I then drilled matching holes in the rear axle - next time I would think to do this BEFORE assembling the frame!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 The only thing I did to the complete flathead assembly from the Revell 32 Tudor was to shorten the fanbelt and tuck it in closer to the heads so that it didn't hang out in the breeze. Its a beautiful engine that really responds to detail painting. So why didn't I run plug leads? I've done it before on flatheads and the diameter and placement of the wire is so critical I just didn't want to detract from the appearance of the heads with some slip up of craftsmanship. I'm happy with the result and don't think it detracts from the look of the finished model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 Now I got a bit lost when it came to the body. I started off improving the old AMT body by adding ribs to the rear wheel arches and modifying the cowl header panle to accept the Revell windscreen. I like the AMT body and it handles some contours better than the Revell version. I also added some extra detail in the form of flanges to the AMT firewall and even got the finished body in paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 For a whole bunch of reasons, I parked up the old favourite AMT body and had a look at the Revell body instead. Most importantly the interior and floor were going to work far better with the Revell parts.There was no way I could live with the radiused rear wheel arches but someone here showed a neat trick for fixing them so I went for it. Sorry I can't remember who that member was but it is a simple trick. First, cut the original wheel arches free of the interior panels. Then position the arch inside the body and determine where you want it to be - I placed it about 4mm below the original arch. Trace the original arch onto the plastic and then carefully file it to fit the body When you are happy with the fit, glue it to the body ever so slightly proud of the quarter panel. I used Testor's tube glue to tack it in place and then dowsed it with super glue . After setting the superglue with Zipkicker, I sanded it flush and didn't need to use any filler. I then did more detail work on an AMT firewall and grafted it to the Revell body. The Revell firewall is probably the low point of this whole kit in my humble opinion. I am going to go out on a limb and say that NOBODY in the world ever attempted to graft a 30-31 firewall to a 28-29 body - there is simply no reason or advantage in doing so. Fortunately it is not a difficult thing to fix and it is a hot rod after all. (Someone will now post a photo of a real 29 with a 30 firewall, but that's O.K......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMCMAN52 Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 looks like your moving right along on a nice project. I'll keep an eye on your progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 I used the kit's rear exhausts but turned them upside down to run under the rear axle. To connect the mufflers to the flathead headers< I used pieces of AMT 40 Ford exhausts, just because I had them handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 There's a thread on this forum about pet hates. Not wanting to be negative, but there are two that I see on here a lot and they are both easily fixed. First is windshield angle. Guys, all model A's, 32s, 33, 34, 35 and 36 roadsters have windshields that lay back at varying angles. That's how Henry made them. When you stand them up vertically, in defiance of how the kit parts are molded, it looks like a dirty great farm gate stuck up on the cowl. Please, for the good of humanity, lay 'em back a little ( or a lot if you are going all swoopy like) Secondly, the lines on headlight lenses are meant to run horizontally on ALL headlights. In fact, most headlight mounting systems won't let you mount them any other way. When I'm doing something as awkward as hod rod headlights on separate posts, I mount the buckets first and let them dry overnight before fitting the lenses. Use white glue (PVA) to avoid fogging them. And yes, I can see from these photos that the left hand light is a bit further away form the grill than the right and side. I'm going to have to fix that but I might make another change at the same time. You might notice I also did quite a bit of slicing and dicing to the Revell headlight posts to get rid of the bug eye look of the original kit. This will be the last post before I post the finished model. If I can find the Revell Hiboy thread started by Tim Boyd I will pop it up there as well. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mod3l Lover Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Serious koolness!! Keep er' rollin', . . . please!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballroad Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 I'm watching this!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 Alan......really, really sharp. And really like the way you handled making the factory stock rear wheel wells on the Revell body. Not sure which of my threads you are referring too, but if you can PM me or respond to me here, perhaps I can help you find it Meanwhile, onward! Great choice of topics and great progress so far.....TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PARTSMARTY Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Lookin very cool !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 22 hours ago, alan barton said: I needed a pair os shocks to finish up the rear so I dug through my spares box and found these ones. I then drilled out the mounting eyes and used some Evergreen to make the mounts. I then drilled matching holes in the rear axle - next time I would think to do this BEFORE assembling the frame!!! Been there, done that. OOPs is part of modelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Thanks Pat, yeah, we all do it some time. I think I got sucked in by thinking how easy it would be - and it was an easy build, but a bit more foresight on my part would have been beneficial. I love looking at your engines and your machine shop, the realism of your equipment is eye - opening! Thanks also Tim, your comments are greatly appreciated. Turns out it was Phil Daupho's Group 29 thread that I was looking for so I've added a few new photos there.. There is just so much you can do with this kit. I bought seven of them and have heaps of ideas for builds, not to mention the plethora of spare parts. What a goldmine, and thanks for your part in it. Thanks everyone for your interest. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Darby Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 On 7/14/2018 at 11:28 AM, alan barton said: Secondly, the lines on headlight lenses are meant to run horizontally on ALL headlights. In fact, most headlight mounting systems won't let you mount them any other way. I know you meant vertically. Very nice job on a very worthy subject. I've always loved Bud Bryan's highboy has always been a favorite of mine. Ever see Pat Ganahl's scale rendition from Street Rodder around 73-74 or so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 7 minutes ago, Dave Darby said: I know you meant vertically. Very nice job on a very worthy subject. I've always loved Bud Bryan's highboy has always been a favorite of mine. Ever see Pat Ganahl's scale rendition from Street Rodder around 73-74 or so? I am pretty sure Pat Ganahl's roadster is a '32, not a model A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Darby Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 1 hour ago, mrm said: I am pretty sure Pat Ganahl's roadster is a '32, not a model A. I was talking about the model of Bud's roadster he built in an article on model cars he did in Street Rodder. Pat also built a replica of the Graffiti coupe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Yes Dave, I read that article by Pat Ganahl when I was still in high school, frustrated by the fact that at that time, AMT kits were not sold in Western Australia! All we could get was the Monogram Son of Ford, the Boss A bone and the SweeTee so my brothers and I bought them up in multiples to be able to build a rod of some sort! And yeah, horizontal, vertical, level, I don't know what the right way to describe the placement of the prisms cut into the headlight glass, other than they shouldn't be crooked! Speaking of headlights, I kept looking at those photos above and decided I couldn't stand them anymore, they had to be replaced. They are just too big for that era car. So last night, I gently removed the medium sized Revell kit lights and replaced them with the smallest sized lights after painting the buckets black. I'm much happier now! Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 On 7/15/2018 at 2:49 PM, mrm said: I am pretty sure Pat Ganahl's roadster is a '32, not a model A. Pat's model car article in Street Rodder, circa 1975 IIRC, was a '29 Model A Roadster on '32 Rails. It was the article that first inspired me to build all those '29 on '32 Rails Roadsters in my collection......as of last month, he still had it in his built model car collection, too! TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Metallic Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Digging this build a lot. Nice job back-dating the frame, and the improvements to the body are nicely done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelfink Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Nice build! It looks like the Bud Bryan roadster had 40 Ford drum brakes up front instead of finned Buick drums. Not a criticism, just observation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spex84 Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Great work! I like all of the mods so far; thanks for showing the work involved. I recently built a '29 using the AMT body (I prefer it to the new Revell body) but yeah, it was a lot of work to fit the floor and interior. Win some, lose some! I like what you did with the shock mounts/headlight posts. The kit pieces are definitely a little clunky. Now that you have a nicely cleaned-up AMT '29 you'll be able to build another equally as cool as this one! It's always encouraging to see that it only takes a few careful modifications by an enterprising modeler for the '29 kit to fully express its potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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