How do I get rid of polishing compound residue in panel lines?

[Bernard Kron]

This is part 2 of a question I originally posted in October of last year:

 I've been getting great results using Tamiya Polishing compounds but now I have a new problem. The polish gets stuck in the panel lines on the model and is very difficult and laborious to get rid of. I've tried scraping with a back of a #11 blade, picking it out with a sharp tooth pick, etc. Is there a way to wash or dissolve it out that you have found successful? Any recommendations will be appreciated.

Thanx,
B.

Edited August 8, 2018 by Bernard Kron

[Bobdude]

Could you use a medium firm toothbrush?

[yh70]

a tooth pick and some tissue should do the trick

[Can-Con]

I just hold the body under in a sink full of water and scrub the lines out with an old toothbrush.

[Exotics_Builder]

1 minute ago, Can-Con said:

I just hold the body under in a sink full of water and scrub the lines out with an old toothbrush.

That or I use the fine point Tamiya swabs with water to scour it out.  Watch out with Alcohol (even 70%) if you have A lacquer paint job, particularly Tamiya or Testors.

[Pete J.]

I use a microfiber cloth(I get them as cleanup rags at Costco) and a spray bottle of 50%  90% alcohol and 50% distilled water.  This dilution won't harm Tamiya lacquers and long as you don't soak it in it overnight.  The microfiber cloth gets down in the seams to clean it out.  I also use the same mixture to give my models a quick clean before putting them on the table at contests.  Takes fingerprints right off. 

[SfanGoch]

5 hours ago, Bernard Kron said:

I've tried raping with a back of a #11 blade,

You can get into trouble with that method. You can use a worn out toothbrush and gently scrub the panel lines under cold running water. The residue will come off easily.

[Art Anderson]

Ever  hear of using a toothbrush and soapy water?  That works, been doing it for nearly 60 yrs now, every time I try it.

Art

[Snake45]

1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

You can get into trouble with that method. You can use a worn out toothbrush and gently scrub the panel lines under cold running water. The residue will come off easily.

 

1 hour ago, SfanGoch said:

You can get into trouble with that method. You can use a worn out toothbrush and gently scrub the panel lines under cold running water. The residue will come off easily.

Or even better, a new toothbrush and warm running water. Been doing it this way for years. You might have to do it more than once. Some of the stuff seems to "disappear" while you're scrubbing only to reappear later when it all dries. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I use a little bit of water, let it sit for a few minutes to help loosen the polish & then scrape it out with a sharpened tooth pick.

If you color your panel lines after polishing as I do, it's not much of an issue.

 

Steve

[gtx6970]

2 hours ago, Art Anderson said:

Ever  hear of using a toothbrush and soapy water?  That works, been doing it for nearly 60 yrs now, every time I try it.

Art

Ive done a few this way with no issues

[berr13]

A business card works very well, and won't damage finish.  I collect them wherever I go, because they'll lose the corner quickly.

[MrObsessive]

If you're lacking business cards, you can also use 3X5 cards. Actually, this should be what the thickness of those door panel lines should be anyway. If you're losing the corners on the cards, you can always cut them again and again.

[Bernard Kron]

Thanks for all the answers! It seemed like such a basic question but it really needed to be answered, especially after going to the trouble of laying down and polishing out a good quality paint job. I landed up using most of the techniques you all suggested. Soaking the body in soapy water goes a long way towards softening and floating away the bulk of the residue. Then most of what little is left can be removed using a soft used tooth brush, followed by careful work with a toothpick. I did notice, however, that to really get the panel lines "tight", clean and sharp you should probably prep them by deepening them before applying paint. I noticed that the plastic in the grooves can be irregular in depth and would benefit to some evening out with the back of a #11 right at the start. Anyway the result of your advice worked out just fine. Thanks again!

B.

[Snake45]

2 hours ago, Bernard Kron said:

 I did notice, however, that to really get the panel lines "tight", clean and sharp you should probably prep them by deepening them before applying paint. I noticed that the plastic in the grooves can be irregular in depth and would benefit to some evening out with the back of a #11 right at the start.

Yup. Been preaching it for years. It's tedious work, but once done, it looks good forever.

[Exotics_Builder]

1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

Yup. Been preaching it for years. It's tedious work, but once done, it looks good forever.

Yep, but necessary (I think) for a good look