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Funkychiken

Hasegawa BMW 318i Touring Car Longhurst B&H version

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Interesting project

I like your choice for the yellow...do you have the B&H decals as well, those look great

Some good reference photos to work from. Doing great B)

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On 2/27/2019 at 6:03 PM, Twokidsnosleep said:

Interesting project

I like your choice for the yellow...do you have the B&H decals as well, those look great

Some good reference photos to work from. Doing great B)

 

On 2/27/2019 at 7:42 PM, Dann Tier said:

Its still looking GREAT, bud!!!

Thanks Scott & Dann! And I do have the B&H decals...

 

So I have made progress, I'm proud of the dash & steering wheel assembly

I tried to make an electrical box, but buggered up the cooling fins, so it'll just be a plain box now - i've cut those fins off!

wheels are complete! coated in 1K clear from Zero

And the electrical connectors have been primed in black awaiting a silver finish, they've been bored with a fine drill to accept cables... Slow progress!

My interior tub has annoyed me. When ever I have box shaped interior tubs, I end up getting dusty paint finish on both the doors & the bottom area. SO i had a great idea - I masked out the interior & painted the doors... only for the tape to leave t's sticky goo all over the rest of the interior - a little bit of it is shown. I'm using tamiya yellow tape, it's never happened to me before, but it's annoyed me. I've cleaned off some of it with white spirits, masked the doors and ready to re-prime the rest of the interior...

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If you can get a hold of some. The foil from Marlboro cigarette packs has the exact same patterning as the heat shielding used on race cars. It is very close to scale. I think I measured it at 1:28, but not enough to notice.

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Posted (edited)

The seat is now finished, just need to add PE belts

5cce0ed125efa_Seatwithcarbondecals.jpg.00a9b2facbf62b93e4fa78ead8448023.jpg

 Iv'e SB'ed a camera, the lens is made from PVA glue

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SB'ed some electronics

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 the Seat belts will be Sabelt by Eduard

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the interior tub is taking shape

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Edited by Funkychiken

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On 3/29/2019 at 2:02 AM, Dann Tier said:

Absolutely BRILLIANT!!!!!

 

On 3/25/2019 at 7:19 PM, Ahajmano said:

Looking fanstatic!!! Absolutely love this gen of BMW 

Thank you kind sirs!

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I have made a lot of progress - amongst packaing (to move house soon), a vacation (to Dubrovnik) and 2 business trips, one to Dearborn USA, and one to Istanbul in Turkey... been busy! 

The body was  primed - several light coats of tamiya White primer over Zero grey primer

Then the whole body was coated in a few coats of Zero White

Then masked as shown & sprayed yellow. I used Camel Yellow from Zero, it came out a bit more orange than the images show, but it's close enough.

Unfortunately, the Microsol was not able to make these after-market decals conform. I've got wrinkles & air pockets near raised moulding detail.

Now, I'll admit I did apply them over the Zero Base coats - and not over a clear. How ever, I've done that before with no issue.

I have used soooo much microsol, and sooo much hair drying - that I managed to warp the body (because I left the body in the spring-loaded tamiya paint stand, and it bowed out!) However, I plan to cut the bubbles and have another go at it with microsol

Some of you may notice that I also messed up with the positioning of the transition from white to yellow. Now the racing number is half yellow & half whit - it should be all yellow, I think I'll make up for it by adding a decal over it that's yellow...

 

Need some advise though - what do you reckon - paint the clear first then add te 2nd side's decal? or just try the same with the other side? Also - does anyone know of a stronger decal conforming product? thanks!

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Mr Mark Softer may help - the stuff is very strong, however if the decals are dry it might be hard to right them from here. I think its probably not so much the paint finish that is the problem here, but more the decal not conforming very well to the curved surfaces and the decals too thick too.

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On 5/28/2019 at 10:25 PM, Michael jones said:

Mr Mark Softer may help - the stuff is very strong, however if the decals are dry it might be hard to right them from here. I think its probably not so much the paint finish that is the problem here, but more the decal not conforming very well to the curved surfaces and the decals too thick too.

Thanks for the tip, but I couldn't find any. i went with "DACO PRODUCTS" Decal Setting solution STRONG. I then tried to get the other side done... and failed miserably! the 2nd side is worse, so I'm going to have to strip them. I might try and print my own decals, I always take a scan of decal sets prior to use (just in case) but this is the first time I've really messed up a set!

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I don't have an image of how bad it has come out - but far worse than the 1st side. This is an image of it during application - with the setting solution...

I used warm water.

Setting solution for under the decal & Softening solution for on top of the decal & used a hair dryer to make it more supple during drying....

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I hope this turns out for you, bud!!....its been looking Brilliant!!!

 

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Sorry to hear about your decal issue.

If you're wanting to get some replacements, a guy here in Australia has them.

Pattosplace.com

Look up B under decals and scroll through to 'BM 318i BnH Tony Longhurst - 1994'

They come in both waterslide and vinyl and the 1/24 scale you need.

Here's a pic.

Good luck!!

Cheers....... Geoff

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Patto also has the Diet Coke decals for the Paul Morris car, so you could do that one too and stage them in their coming together as shown in Shaun's earlier posted video.

By the way, I was there that day and witnessed the whole affair, which happened to unfold right in front of me!!! Crazy stuff for sure. 😂😂

Cheers....... Geoff

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