Accurate/reliable method for 'pinning' things, headers etc,..

[Speedfreak]

Hello all,

I've pinned a few things, headers etc,.. but don't have a sure fire method for making the process accurate,  (within reason). Until now I've just used the 'eye ball' method for placement and drilling of holes. Is there a better way?  

Thanks.

Edited September 14, 2018 by Speedfreak

[Miatatom]

Yes, please, master builders, tell us how you do it. I'd love to get better at this. Just bought a new set of drill bits. That'll help, I hope.

[ScottH454]

What pinning I have done I used a piece of copper wire. Sanded the wire to give the glue something to bite into. Drilled into one side of the part with a bit close to what the wire is an glue the wire in. Then trimmed it off with enough to go into the second part. I still wing it an eyeball where to drill seeing what I pin is pretty small parts. But to help locate the second hole you could press the wire against the other side or dab a drop of paing on the wire or use the wire to scrape painted area on the second part.

[espo]

Still using Eyeball Engineering but my eyes are a little blood shot. I try to drill a small hole for what ever wire I may be using to pin the part. I'll start with a small scribe mark using an X-acto knife and start with a very small diameter drill bit. With the small bit it is easier to get the hole drilled in the correct direction and depth  and this makes it easier to drill what ever size hole you need for the actual pin. For pins I have used Swingline staples - small diameter Brass rods and Floral Stem Wire works well. I like the stem wire the best in that it is easily bent as needed and easier to cut. There are many other possible products that you can use, this is just what I've found that I'm comfortable with. I'm sure others will offer some good ideas.      

[peteski]

I use pins to positively locate parts during final assembly (when they parts are painted).  I use brass rod (wire) in diameters ranging from 0.010" - 0.032" depending on the size of the parts.

For items like side mirrors on the doors where the exact location is not critical, I simply drill into the base of the mirror (make the hole few thousands of an inch larger then the pin and glue the pin into it using CA glue.  I use thin CA and have to insert the wire quickly (the glue sets fast).  I also roll the wire with my finger few times over a piece of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper before gluing it to roughen the surface of the pin.  Then I eyeball the location on the door and drill the hole to accept the pinned item.

For items such as headers attached to the cylinder head, or attaching cylinder head to the block, I simply hold the unpainted and aligned parts together, then drill right through both parts.  That assures perfect alignment. I then glue the pin into the part that sits on the outside (like headers headers). The hole in the headers is so small that tiny bit of CA glue will fill it in.  Then I paint the parts and the pins guarantee perfect alignment.

[Ace-Garageguy]

It was necessary to pin this windshield frame to the cowl, as it is to be removable when the model is completed, so it can be displayed with a tonneau for dry-lakes racing. The headlight stanchions are also to be pinned for the same reason.

BEFORE PRIMER OR PAINT, I lightly glued the windshield base to the cowl EXACTLY WHERE I WANTED IT, at the correct angle.

Next, I marked carefully around the base of the pillars with a very sharp implement.

I then removed the windshield and drilled .030" holes (to use steel straight-pin stock) straight DOWN, in the CENTER OF THE MARKED LOCATIONS.

The windshield was again lightly glued to the cowl, aligning it precisely with the marks.

Using the previously drilled holes in the cowl to guide the drill bit, holes in the bases of the windshield pillars were drilled UP from the underside of the cowl, and the windshield was again carefully snapped off of the car.

The resulting holes match exactly, and are all at the correct angles relative to each other.

Pins were installed in the windshield pillar bases with CA, trimmed for length, and the windshield always goes back in the EXACT same location.

At this point, priming and paint were completed.

The holes drilled in the cowl are visible in this primer shot.

Here's the full build thread, if anyone is interested.

NOTE: Though the above method works for many parts (like mirrors, etc.), sometimes eyeball-engineering is the only solution. The roll-bar hoop on this model needs to be removable to display the car's guts with the body off. Carefully centering the drill bit in the ends of the parts to be pinned together is the only solution, and I didn't get it quite right. When that happens, just fill the drilled holes with some styrene dissolved in liquid cement, let it dry THOROUGHLY, and try again.

 

Edited September 18, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy

[89AKurt]

I use guitar string (thin stainless steel wire) all the time, for door mirrors especially.  Did on the windshield for my Mercedes Roadster, for the hinge and mounting to the body.  When in doubt, drill it out and pin it!

[Speedfreak]

I have some guitar strings! 

Thanks to everyone, I have gleaned much and will go back through this thread when I have more time.

I've been using .025 plastic rod to make my pins, I also have some metal rod. What kind of file or whatever can be used to smooth the metal rod after it's been cut? My files don't do very at that.

Thanks! Enjoyed reading posts.

[89AKurt]

1 hour ago, Speedfreak said:

I have some guitar strings! [...] I also have some metal rod. What kind of file or whatever can be used to smooth the metal rod after it's been cut? My files don't do very at that. [...]

I use the cutoff disk on the Dremel, and use clamping forceps to hold onto the tiny pin.  After I cut, I grind the end; recommend doing that to the long piece before cutting the tiny pin.

[Speedfreak]

I thought about a Dremel disk, thanks for the info Kurt!

[gotnitro?]

One trick I use for locating the perfect spot for your pinned parts..say mirrors and such..after pinning them take a bottle of any model paint and dip the end of the pin into it..just  a very small amount. Now touch the area you want the mirror to mount..the paint gives ya a spot to drill the hole  no more guessing ..