Ace-Garageguy Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 I just addressed your package with the vintage piecrusts. It'll be on the way tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Well, I am getting closer. I have the interior finished and I got the body painted and decals installed. The first paint job did not turn out well. I went with a blue that was just too bright. It was not something that would have been stock, nor do I think anyone would be stupid enough to paint their car. So, I went with a different color. It is called Ambrosia. It looked like a color that could have been stock, even if it was not. To add some contrast, I painted the wheels red. This is a budget family car with a local small town sponsor so no fancy high dollar wheels. I had some, but they didn't look right. I decided to add some weight to the car in the form of a big truck battery and I will add a tube rear push bumper that will be filled with lead weights for weight transfer. Along with the Ford 9in that will be installed this will push my weight/Cubic in into the B/G class. This way I will be right at the top of the class. I had to check on the decals. I looked up every company to make sure they were in business prior to 1962. While all were, I was not able to verify if the Logo on the decal was correct for the year, but I will just have to assume it was. Most came from the 1958 Chevy kit so I hope they were right for the era. I am still waiting on the 9in rear axle to arrive, so the rear springs are not painted or installed, just sitting on the butchered 40 rear. It will get traction bars once the rear arrives. I know most people think the 3.5 gallon gas tank belongs in the grill, but I just could not find enough pictures from the early 60's with it there to justify it, so it went in the trunk. Anyway, I am getting closer to the finish line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamadon Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Been following this and it's looking real good. Just like I remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 This is looking REAL good! Very "period." Drive on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 A little heads-up on the slicks that are heading your way...there are a couple of versions of the same generic AMT piecrusts. The ones I sent you have slightly different inside-diameters on each side to accommodate different wheels. There is an obvious "step" inside one side of each tire. It also can help getting the rims seating a little deeper, to get away from the somewhat toylike fat-rim appearance on some old AMT wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said: A little heads-up on the slicks that are heading your way...there are a couple of versions of the same generic AMT piecrusts. The ones I sent you have slightly different inside-diameters on each side to accommodate different wheels. There is an obvious "step" inside one side of each tire. It also can help getting the rims seating a little deeper, to get away from the somewhat toylike fat-rim appearance on some old AMT wheels. Wonderful, that will work. Right now I have hit the end of what I can do till the rear axle arrives. Should be here next we. Till then I have made a few other improvements. I added the rear push bumper, it is brass tube on sheet stock brackets. This is where the fishing weights will be stuffed. I added a fuel line up to the carb and some linkage to the other side but still need to fix the hole with a grommet. . Rad hose is in place and the body is all glued down for the last time. I also gave the body a light clear coat with some matte clear. I want it to have a slightly used look, like the car was found at a local used car lot and turned into a Gasser. So the paint is not shinny. When I get the tires(today) and the rear axle (next week I hope) this will be done. I have had a lot of fun with this project and learned a lot about the Gassers of the era. Edited October 25, 2018 by Oldmopars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryR Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Looks really good, nice work. I don't mean to be picky, but nobody would run an air cleaner on a race car, not in 62. Otherwise, you have THE LOOK! LOVE IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 On 10/25/2018 at 1:53 PM, GaryR said: Looks really good, nice work. I don't mean to be picky, but nobody would run an air cleaner on a race car, not in 62. Otherwise, you have THE LOOK! LOVE IT! I guess I will have to decide if I want to pull it off and detail the carbs, or leave it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stavanzer Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 That Billet Air Cleaner is the only Nit I can find. Not Period at all. The rest of the car Rocks! Superb Build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryR Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 5 hours ago, Oldmopars said: I guess I will have to decide if I want to pull it off and detail the carbs, or leave it as is. Put a flame arrestor over them. A strip of metal. OR, better yet, velocity stacks. LOOKING GOOD! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I agree with Gary--a flash shield is the way to go, if you want to avoid having to detail them. It definitely looks the part! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 Yes, flash shield would look better than the air cleaner. Plus that making one is really easy, I used beer can aluminum on mine. Otherwise the Ford is looking excellent! I think you nailed the period look perfectly with it and it's great to see that not all of these old Gassers are built as "super shiny show cars" or something like that. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Anyone have a picture of this flash shield? I know I can make one if I know what it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Here's the one I made for my Cook and Bedwell dragster. Any thin metal sheet will work, and, it's very simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 OK, I removed the air cleaner and started on the fender welting. Flash shield installed. Now I have to decide if I want to remove the hood scoop and repair the hood, or leave the hood scoop. What do you think? Would it be right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Flash shield looks great! Leave the hood scoop, it's right in character. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) The hood scoop definitely looks cool, and technically there's no reason to remove it. It provides a positive source of air that's cooler than what would be under the hood otherwise, and cooler air=horsepower. A very loose generalization for a medium displacement V8 has it that every 100 F that you can cool the intake charge, you get about 1HP. Air coming through the radiator will be somewhere around 1600. If there's just a hole in the hood, this hot air will tend to flow out of the engine bay through the hole, bathing the carbs. Put a scoop over the hole, and as soon as you start moving, you'll be getting ambient air to the carbs. Even on a 900 day, this is still a 700 temperature difference. In theory, that's as much as 7 free HP. Bottom line is that the car WILL make a little more power with a hood scoop than without. Even 2 or 3 HP is worth the effort. Edited November 3, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stavanzer Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Beautiful Carb Shield! I too, vote to leave the scoop. Bill has the right of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TECHMAN Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 On 11/3/2018 at 12:13 PM, alexis said: Beautiful Carb Shield! I too, vote to leave the scoop. Bill has the right of it. X2 !!!! Been following this build, and is some GREAT work!!!!! Can't wait to see the final product. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lordmodelbuilder Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Great looking 40! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Myers Posted November 12, 2018 Share Posted November 12, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldmopars Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 In-case you missed it, it is posted under glass. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/137280-period-correct-1940-ford-gasser/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryR Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 Turned out very nice! Good work, I think you captured the look quite well! It has the right look in my estimation. NICE!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted November 13, 2018 Share Posted November 13, 2018 RE: INJECTOR MANIFOLDS The large photo above is NOT a period piece. It's a late-model (current) EFI manifold plumbed for mechanical injection. Those big square lumps on the throttle bodies below the stacks are the bosses cast in that normally get drilled and tapped for electronic injectors. The location of the holes where the fuel lines go into this rig is normally where the vacuum-signal hoses are plumbed for EFI, so the computer reads a relatively steady vacuum signal averaged over all the ports, rather than one single wildly pulsing signal from one port which would be useless gibberish to the ECU. The small photo appears to indeed be a period piece, but it is a little small to make out the details of the casting shapes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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