How do the chrome pens do with trim, and with scripts?PICTURES please!

[StevenGuthmiller]

10 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:

I think the only way you might be able to use the pens for trim is to air brush it on, I do believe Ive seen one maybe two people make mention of that, but don't quote me on that.

That might be the most feasible way of using the Molotow ink, but when I think of all of the masking that would be involved to do the trim on, say a '58 Impala, you would be way ahead of the game just using foil.

And then there is still the question about the durability of the ink.

For all we know, the stuff could disintegrate after a year or two.

There are a lot of unknowns.

 

Steve

[alan barton]

I love my Molotow pens, all three sizes.  Haven't done any airbrushing as yet.  I have a large toy hot rod collection and they are awesome for  touching up damaged, worn or faded chrome on old toy - can make a roughie look brand new.  I have also used the 1mm on chrome trim on a Motorific slot car body - these are somewhere between 1/32nd and 1/43 .  One quick swipe and they look brilliant!  My trick is to always shake the pen and give a few pumps on the nib before you use it so that you get bright wet chrome on the first go.

I have had Molotow job in the cabinet for over a year and they still look great.  The Imperial below had very faded silver paint trim - you can still see some on the lower edge of the windshield frame.  The top edge of the frameand the wiperes are Molotow 1mm, no masking, the windshield is still in and in fact, the only prep was a quick wipe with my hand.  This chrome is about 14 months old.  On the rear of the Imperial, the fender top spear is OEM chrome, the side spear and rear window trim is Molotow.  Impossible to tell the difference.  Again, the window was not removed and there was no masking applied.  And, I shake like a drunk epileptic  on an ice rink!

I would however agree with all posters that I probably wouldn't be brave enough to tackle a full length trim on a fifties classic. But I would and will be cheerfully attacking a 1/25th scale windshield trim shortly.  I love BareMetal but hate wrinkles I often get on the corners of windscreen trim and the quarter vents.

 

 

Edited October 13, 2018 by alan barton
double up on photo

[alan barton]

O.K., stop laughing, probably the world's ugliest toy deuce but Motorific did have a one size fits all policy - a 63 Cadillac and a Karman Ghia both fit the same chassis this Deuce is riding.  But, I collect toy hot rods irrespective of how ugly they are so I I just laugh and live with it.

 

Here is a before and after I did for the guys at my model club.  The chrome on both headers had been rubbed back to black.  The LHS is before, the RHS is after.  Says it all really, and once again, no prep!

[bill_rules]

I used the chrome pen to touch up a chip in the chrome on my 1/1. After about 3 months it was gone and looked just as it did before I applied it.

 

 

[Xingu]

Gary, to answer your question.... you will need to try it for yourself and decide if it works for you. Try it on an old body to see if you like it.

It is just another tool for modelers to work with. Some will find it easier than foil, some will not. Some will find it does just as good as foil, some will not. There is no right or wrong answer.

I find it is good for touching up sprue attachment points and where I mess up the foil. I am not proficient with either, but both have a place in my toolbox.

[bbowser]

4 hours ago, alan barton said:

And, I shake like a drunk epileptic  on an ice rink!

LOL, now there's a picture!  I'm firmly in the BMF camp for most things but the pens work great for touching up attachment points.  I brush it on for fine scripts, its not perfect (like Steve's!) but I haven't had any luck with the foil under paint technique.

[Foxer]

I love the chrome pens for many things that BMF just can't do, but BMF has many jobs that the chrome pen's can't. Just use the right thing for the job.

This is a 3D printed TR4A turn signal I used a chrome pen for. I never even thought about using BMF on it. Nothing else could have done this, short of losing it in a chrome plater's vat.

The big thing is putting it on heavy, like a puddle, and it will shrink down tight and shiny.

[Krazy Rick]

13 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Personally, I don't trust using these pens for body trim at all.

Aside from the obvious durability question, even with masking, one small spot where the tape is not perfectly sealed & you have bleed under, potentially ruining a perfect paint job.

It is virtually impossible to make a mistake with foil.

If a piece doesn't meet your standards, you simply pull it off and apply a new piece.

Fool proof, and it will last essentially forever.

 

Steve

I agree 100% Steve - plus ....it is metal - 1:1 trim Is metal, therefore ; of course it is the best "look" possible ... because both are aluminum - BMF remains the only logical option ;  period. As far as the markers  being " chrome" .... I don't think so. it may be as close to, or better than other products; but if a part is plated nicely; I prefer to leave it - not strip the plating & replace it with some type of ink, or paint; trying to go beyond.... that makes no sense at all to me.  

[Tom Geiger]

Ha!  Am I the only person who actually enjoys applying BMF?  I find it relaxing.  And there is no other single action that produces the greatest improvement on a model for the time spent!  

[JohnU]

2 hours ago, bill_rules said:

I used the chrome pen to touch up a chip in the chrome on my 1/1. After about 3 months it was gone and looked just as it did before I applied it.

 

 

Your actual car with real chrome exposed to the environment? Gee, how could that happen??

[GeeBee]

1 hour ago, Foxer said:

I love the chrome pens for many things that BMF just can't do, but BMF has many jobs that the chrome pen's can't. Just use the right thing for the job.the big thing is putting it on heavy, like a puddle, and it will shrink down tight and shiny.

 

Fully agree with putting it on really wet, it does shrink and dried up perfectly, then leave it at least a day or so before handling, the supercharger intake was done with the liquid pen, so was the front overiders and headlamp rims on the porsche, use it properly and you'll be pleased with the results

[GeeBee]

1 hour ago, Tom Geiger said:

Ha!  Am I the only person who actually enjoys applying BMF?  I find it relaxing.  And there is no other single action that produces the greatest improvement on a model for the time spent!  

No Tom, I love a good session with the  BMF, but there's times it just won't work (see my previous post)

[Rider]

24 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

Fully agree with putting it on really wet, it does shrink and dried up perfectly, then leave it at least a day or so before handling, the supercharger intake was done with the liquid pen, so was the front overiders and headlamp rims on the porsche, use it properly and you'll be pleased with the results

If Geoff is vouching for it's quality you know it has to be quality product and the user just needs to figure out the best method that work for them of applying/using it. 

[bill_rules]

53 minutes ago, JohnU said:

Your actual car with real chrome exposed to the environment? Gee, how could that happen??

Just a durability check when the pens first came out that I figured would fail. It did get treated to a few thousand back road miles and  multiple car washes.Guess I should try BMF and see if it comes loose and blows off over time to be fair.

 

 

[bill_rules]

 

 

 

[bill_rules]

..... full disclosure, I'm in the "They both have their place" category.....not putting down the pens, just a very extreme test of it.

 

[Rider]

23 minutes ago, bill_rules said:

 

 

 

I tried the same test on one of my cars, total junk for exterior use. Although in all fairness, I have yet to try letting it cure and then clearing it with Alclad clear. 

[GeeBee]

1 hour ago, Rider said:

If Geoff is vouching for it's quality you know it has to be quality product and the user just needs to figure out the best method that work for them of applying/using it. 

Like most things, you just need to practice,practice and then practice some more, a few weeks ago i bought the Molotow refill to try it through the airbrush, using a Paasche F1 set @ 20 p.s.i, tried it on a white plastic spoon first, quite happy with the results.

 

[Rider]

 

42 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

Like most things, you just need to practice,practice and then practice some more, a few weeks ago i bought the Molotow refill to try it through the airbrush, using a Paasche F1 set @ 20 p.s.i, tried it on a white plastic spoon first, quite happy with the results.

 

I really love this stuff, been using it for the past few years. I actually spray it on at 30psi, and ya, laying it on thick is key. 

Edited October 13, 2018 by Rider

[StevenGuthmiller]

Most of the posts That I'm seeing here depict items which are not molded to the body.

I agree, the Molowtow pens work terrific for separate parts, whether air brushed or applied directly from the pen.

I use them all of the time for mirrors, antennas, interior parts & details, touch ups, etc.

But You will notice that you are not seeing many photos of molded on body trim being done with these pens.

I don't want to step on anybody's toes, but the vast majority of photos that I see of body trim being done with the pens show obvious flaws upon close inspection.

I see no way possible to get clean, sharp, straight lines on body trim short of masking, which in my view, ultimately defeats the purpose of not using foil.

 

Let's not forget, The OP's question was "How well do the pens work with trim & scripts", not with separate parts.

I find the pens extremely useful for the types of loose parts that most of the posters here are showcasing, but I don't think that they are all that useful for something as fine and intricate as body moldings & scripts.

 

4 hours ago, Foxer said:

I love the chrome pens for many things that BMF just can't do

I agree Mike.

There are things that would be very difficult or nearly impossible to do with foil.

I don't want to be a pain in the "you know what" but I have enough experience with foil to where I would have been able to foil this part. 

Compound curves like this are difficult, but not impossible.

That being said, I would have used the same method that you did!

The tail light bezels on this '60 Dodge & '60 Plymouth have more compound curves than you can shake a stick at, & while they were not easy to foil, it was entirely possible.

 

 

4 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Ha!  Am I the only person who actually enjoys applying BMF?  I find it relaxing.

No you are not Tom!

I'm not certain that I would call it "relaxing" but if you take your time & do it right, there are few things that will "transform" a model like a good foil job.

 

 

Steve

Edited October 13, 2018 by StevenGuthmiller

[Snake45]

I now have four "chrome" tools: foil, Silver Sharpie, Molotow, and old-school Testor Silver Chrome Trim paint. 

Each has its uses. 

My standard go-to for things like windshield trim is the Silver Sharpie. I probably use it for 90% of my chrome work these days. 

Large areas like rocker panels get foil; also some larger emblems. I've also been playing with the foil-under-paint trick for nameplates and small emblems. This works well. 

Sometimes Testor Silver on a small brush is the only thing that will do. 

Molotow replaces my beloved Silver Sharpie for trim on a silver-painted model, as the SS doesn't have enough visual difference with the silver paint to catch the eye. It's also great for touching up small areas on chrome parts. I recently "re-chromed" the spokes on a set of Cragar wheels with Molotow and they came out great. 

No one of these tools solves all my problems. I glad I have all four on hand. Try it and I suspect you soon will be too. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I now have four "chrome" tools: foil, Silver Sharpie, Molotow, and old-school Testor Silver Chrome Trim paint. 

Each has its uses. 

My standard go-to for things like windshield trim is the Silver Sharpie. I probably use it for 90% of my chrome work these days. 

Large areas like rocker panels get foil; also some larger emblems. I've also been playing with the foil-under-paint trick for nameplates and small emblems. This works well. 

Sometimes Testor Silver on a small brush is the only thing that will do. 

Molotow replaces my beloved Silver Sharpie for trim on a silver-painted model, as the SS doesn't have enough visual difference with the silver paint to catch the eye. It's also great for touching up small areas on chrome parts. I recently "re-chromed" the spokes on a set of Cragar wheels with Molotow and they came out great. 

No one of these tools solves all my problems. I glad I have all four on hand. Try it and I suspect you soon will be too. 

Since the Molotow pens came along, I no longer have any use for the Testors Chrome silver.

A little Molotow ink on a brush works the same & looks better.

I only use Sharpies on the very rare occasion that I need some gold trim or something.

Then I "might" use a gold Sharpie.

 

Steve

[Snake45]

There are many paths to the top of the mountain. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

There are many paths to the top of the mountain. 

No doubt.

 

Steve

[robertw]

You've been given some good advice which I can only agree with, foil is still the best for long straight trim, don't go over the same area with more then one stroke of the Molotow pen it can take up to a couple of days to dry completely. It can be particularly useful with logos that are high enough above the paint so that the chrome doesn't escape into the paint layer. It also works nicely just to touch your paint brush up to the tip to transfer one tiny amount of chrome to where it might be needed. It's also very good at touching up sprue  marks which is what I use it for mostly.  I see it as just another tool in the tool box but not a miracle way to create a chrome finish.