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olsbooks

L700 Mongoose transporter

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Providence has provided access to a computer and the net for a while so I figured I'd post another creation while the chance presented itself.

Based on the Tony Ivo rig inquired on about a month or two ago, this resulted.  Body is scratchbuilt with balsa framework.  Winch and compressor are odds and ends cobbled together from the abundance of spare parts that come in an Academy M1 tank kit done years ago.  Truck frame stretch was made using the "extra" frame rails that came with the tanker trailer kit (see no frill R Mack).  Mirrors are made from wire.  Grille was hollowed out and screen applied.  All were chromed with Molotowe.  The cab door opening system was modified greatly.  If you look close, you will see a straight pin used running the full length.  This way I can take the doors off and eliminate the sweating bullets using the Lindberg system.  I made new "brackets" and mounted them to the interior door panels and then hung/aligned them.  Only after everything else was pretty much done, did I then glue the outer door skins to the interior door panels.  That way I could mount the mirrors and not botch things up as much.   Given a "do over", I would do the same thing on the cab hinge pins.  As it stands, the cab isn't glued to the floor pan (nor is the body) as I want to be able to "pack up" things in the event of a move and not have it break into a million pieces.  

The decals (from a Revell Snap 359) were probably 5 or 6 years old and junk.  I shouldn't have but tried to make them work.  Bad mistake.  Arms length they look alright but up close you can see the cracks/patches.  If/when another set of decals comes my way, these decals come off and will be redone.  "Mongoose" signage on the truck is simply taped on from the box art as a trial.

 

"Diamond plate" decking is simply cheap, plastic netting glued with diluted white glue on top of plastic sheeting.  I picked up a 200 ft roll at Hobby Lobby for around $2.  It works good enough.

The rail is the stock MPC kit.  This is my second MPC kit and (once again) foundthe plastic in their kits has something in them soft/sticky.  To get any paint to dry (lacquer, enamel, water base) and harden required placing it in the oven on "warm" which is risky.  This rail kit of theirs is a REAL challenge for those so inclined.  Patience is a MUST.  I think every piece of chrome in this kit was stripped and Molotowed other than the wheels.

Peace

 

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Edited by olsbooks

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Awesome!

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Love it.

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Thanks.  I posted some build/tech info to a question along with my usual worthless rambling...under the dragster section. 

Peace.

Edited by olsbooks

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Very nice conversion what is very well executed.

Together with the dragster it looks awesome!

 

Hermann.

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Beautiful build as well as beautiful photography!!!

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Beautiful and impressive!!!

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On 10/17/2018 at 5:49 AM, olsbooks said:

Providence has provided access to a computer and the net for a while so I figured I'd post another creation while the chance presented itself.

Based on the Tony Ivo rig inquired on about a month or two ago, this resulted.  Body is scratchbuilt with balsa framework.  Winch and compressor are odds and ends cobbled together from the abundance of spare parts that come in an Academy M1 tank kit done years ago.  Truck frame stretch was made using the "extra" frame rails that came with the tanker trailer kit (see no frill R Mack).  Mirrors are made from wire.  Grille was hollowed out and screen applied.  All were chromed with Molotowe.  The cab door opening system was modified greatly.  If you look close, you will see a straight pin used running the full length.  This way I can take the doors off and eliminate the sweating bullets using the Lindberg system.  I made new "brackets" and mounted them to the interior door panels and then hung/aligned them.  Only after everything else was pretty much done, did I then glue the outer door skins to the interior door panels.  That way I could mount the mirrors and not botch things up as much.   Given a "do over", I would do the same thing on the cab hinge pins.  As it stands, the cab isn't glued to the floor pan (nor is the body) as I want to be able to "pack up" things in the event of a move and not have it break into a million pieces.  

The decals (from a Revell Snap 359) were probably 5 or 6 years old and junk.  I shouldn't have but tried to make them work.  Bad mistake.  Arms length they look alright but up close you can see the cracks/patches.  If/when another set of decals comes my way, these decals come off and will be redone.  "Mongoose" signage on the truck is simply taped on from the box art as a trial.

 

"Diamond plate" decking is simply cheap, plastic netting glued with diluted white glue on top of plastic sheeting.  I picked up a 200 ft roll at Hobby Lobby for around $2.  It works good enough.

The rail is the stock MPC kit.  This is my second MPC kit and (once again) foundthe plastic in their kits has something in them soft/sticky.  To get any paint to dry (lacquer, enamel, water base) and harden required placing it in the oven on "warm" which is risky.  This rail kit of theirs is a REAL challenge for those so inclined.  Patience is a MUST.  I think every piece of chrome in this kit was stripped and Molotowed other than the wheels.

Peace

 

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JC,

That is an awesome job. I like what you did and brings me back. I do have a question in regard to the Tom McEwen (God rest his soul) dragster. Did you use the kits supplied front tires? Or did you purchase aftermarket ones? Thanks. Once again great great job.

 

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Thanks.  I used the kit tires.  Painted them with Valejo flat black with a touch of brown mixed in.  They really turned out better than I expected.  

"Warning Will Robinson" I say to anyone considering this kit.  This is my second "round 2" MPC kit.  The other was the 1/8 Rupp minibike.   I don't know what is going on with them but the plastic in both of these kits was AWFUL.  It was gooey and flexible....almost like little green army men from the 60's and 70's we used to destroy by the bagful.  I had to bake the primer to ever get it to dry and then the top coat as well before it would harden.  You can bend a piece 25 degrees and eventually come back into place. Thorough cleaning with bleech-white didn't help.   Also, expect to spend more time cleaning up flash/seams as anything.  Finally, maybe the assembly order in the instructions works for others but not me.  After banging my head against the wall and half a dozen teardowns/reassemblies, I finally decided to put the engine/trans in, followed by the drivers seat, then the rear wing as the final 3 steps.  I wouldn't waste time with the so called "fuel line".  Make your own out of wire afterwards.  It will look better and cause few fits of rage.  

The above rant is simply the opinion of aa guy that's blind in one eye, can't see out of the other and fills in at Home Depot when the paint shaker machine is broken.

Peace.

 

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like it , great!!

jacobus

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