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Peking to Paris Rally CBP


Jantrix

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Looking at the Gerard Brown pics at the link that was posted on page 2, you can see that all of the American Built 1930's cars have a huge, long exposed exhaust pipe on the Left side of the car. They have been wrapped with tape of some kind, and are very prominent.

 

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1 hour ago, Lunajammer said:

It did not finish because it was involved in a head-on crash in Siberia that killed British driver Emma Wilkinson and injured her partner three weeks into the race. The driver of the other car and a baby were also killed. Later articles implied alcohol may have been involved with the other driver.

It was not a support vehicle but according to one article may have been allowed because they were less particular for that year's race.

https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-22885146

_68153869_de16.jpg

Oh man, that's terribly Sad! 

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23 hours ago, Jantrix said:

Well it's on this roster. At the bottom, marked "retired". Which I do believe means it did not finish.

http://www2.endurorally.com/pp2013/results.php

Its possible the pickup ran, but under the policy below. I think we need to make it clear not to include pickups. My 2 cents anyway.

"A car failing the above technical specification at Scrutineering will be transferred to a separate Class which will not be
included in the general classification or the results. The crew and the car will only be eligible for a finisher’s award."

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I haven't been around for awhile. so just saw this. I've been hoping for years someone would do an endurance race build like this.

 

I'll be entering in the vintageant category, but not 100% sure of the vehicle just yet but definitely 1920s-30s. A Model T with Frontiac 8 or 16 overhead valve conversion is stewing in my brain. I need to do a little research to see how engine reliability was impacted to make sure that is a suitable modification for an endurance racer. Also need to dig through the stash to see if something else strikes my fancy.

 

I'd like to request #54

 

I do have 3 questions:

 

On the roof racks, it doesn't say factory, just available when the vehicle was in production so aftermarket racks would be acceptable correct? Assume older than vehicle is also ok, just not newer than the vehicle. 

 

Limited slip / torque biasing axles are specifically mentioned, but nothing about lower gear ratios, worm drive axles or adding a powered axle (four wheel drive conversion). From my reading of the rules using heavier truck axles / wheels would be ok as long as the same period.

 

I assume it is the cargo area that sets a station wagon / sedan delivery apart from a long body all seats sedan? Ford Model A woody wagon bad, Ford Model A Tudor sedan good.

Edited by Aaronw
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12 hours ago, oldcarfan said:

I would like to get in on this as well. I have a kit that would fit the rules, except it's a curbside and a bit of a glue bomb. Would that be acceptable? If not, I'll look this weekend for another.

I think a curbside would be fine. Welcome to the CBP.

11 hours ago, Aaronw said:

I haven't been around for awhile. so just saw this. I've been hoping for years someone would do an endurance race build like this.

 

I'll be entering in the vintageant category, but not 100% sure of the vehicle just yet but definitely 1920s-30s. A Model T with Frontiac 8 or 16 overhead valve conversion is stewing in my brain. I need to do a little research to see how engine reliability was impacted to make sure that is a suitable modification for an endurance racer. Also need to dig through the stash to see if something else strikes my fancy.

 

I'd like to request #54 - No problem

 

I do have 3 questions:

 

On the roof racks, it doesn't say factory, just available when the vehicle was in production so aftermarket racks would be acceptable correct? Assume older than vehicle is also ok, just not newer than the vehicle. Correct. Very few cars came with factory roof racks. 

 

Limited slip / torque biasing axles are specifically mentioned, but nothing about lower gear ratios, worm drive axles or adding a powered axle (four wheel drive conversion). From my reading of the rules using heavier truck axles / wheels would be ok as long as the same period. This is my understanding.

 

I assume it is the cargo area that sets a station wagon / sedan delivery apart from a long body all seats sedan? Ford Model A woody wagon bad, Ford Model A Tudor sedan good. I believe so. Lets look at it this way, if cargo vehicles were made legal then nobody would drive a standard sedan, because why would you limit yourself on supply storage? 

 

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On 11/6/2018 at 10:22 AM, Pete J. said:

Ok, just been playing with photoshop and created this file for mass consumption.  It is a "scale" plaque and number rondel.  All are welcome to use it.  It you can't download to print, PM me and I will attach an original JPEG file for you to use.  It is scaled to 6"X4"

printable plaque_roundel.jpg

Ok, so I got carried away!  I was originally going to use 2 4"X6" decal sheets to handle the requests for decals.  Then I added one too many.  I decided that I would need to use a 8.5" X 11" sheet instead, so now I have 5 more sets I can accommodate. I already have the paper so it is only costing me the time and postage, so I might as well use the larger sheet.  So I have 5 more available.  If you want a set, be one of the first 5 to PM me your address and number and I will try to accommodate you.  I am planning on running these before the 23rd of November so, please let me know asap.  

Just a reminder, these are printed on an inkjet printer on white decal paper and clear coated with lacquer.  As such you will need to cut them out and trim the white edge off.  It will take some effort to do it right.  You will get 6 placards and 4 number rondels so you will have some extra to practice on.  Also, be sure to test any clear coat you are going to put over the decal on scrap before you put it on your car to make sure you don't have a compatibility issue. 

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4 hours ago, Jantrix said:

If anyone comes up with a good medium for the required mudflaps, do let us know. I'm gonna try some medical tape.

Electrical tape under the medical tape might give it some more depth and rigidity. I was gonna try several layers of electrical tape painted matte black. Might try the mix of the two now.

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7 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Ok, so I got carried away!  I was originally going to use 2 4"X6" decal sheets to handle the requests for decals.  Then I added one too many.  I decided that I would need to use a 8.5" X 11" sheet instead, so now I have 5 more sets I can accommodate. I already have the paper so it is only costing me the time and postage, so I might as well use the larger sheet.  So I have 5 more available.  If you want a set, be one of the first 5 to PM me your address and number and I will try to accommodate you.  I am planning on running these before the 23rd of November so, please let me know asap.  

Just a reminder, these are printed on an inkjet printer on white decal paper and clear coated with lacquer.  As such you will need to cut them out and trim the white edge off.  It will take some effort to do it right.  You will get 6 placards and 4 number rondels so you will have some extra to practice on.  Also, be sure to test any clear coat you are going to put over the decal on scrap before you put it on your car to make sure you don't have a compatibility issue. 

Very nice Pete. Thanks for supplying these to folks. Very nice.

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I've done some looking and I'm going to go with a Ford Model T, the slow but steady choice.

It may seem an odd selection, but they were more tractor than car, and were made for driving the terrible roads of the time. More than 5000 aftermarket accessories had been made for it when production ended in 1927. Many useful for this race, luggage racks, spare tire carriers, 4x4 conversions, reinforcing axle trusses, 2 speed rear ends, 3 speed transmissions, engine driven tire pumps, spotlights and a variety of things to make it go faster / improve reliability.

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Seems I can only make short posts.

One drawback is a stock top speed of only 45 mph, but with era available speed equipment they were capable of exceeding 100 mph. Getting a minimum of an extra 5 mph to qualify shouldn't be difficult.

 

Based on your post from page 3, swapping a Model As 3 speed transmission into the T should be legal. Much easier to scrounge from the parts box than finding photos / diagrams of a period correct aftermarket one to scratchbuild something. This was apparently a fairly common swap for Ts in the 1930s as it improved their drivability, the 2 speed planetary gear box being weird for later drivers to operate. 

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4 hours ago, Jantrix said:

If anyone comes up with a good medium for the required mudflaps, do let us know. I'm gonna try some medical tape.

 

Thin styrene works, .010" or 0.15" being thin enough that you can add a little flex to them if desired, but thick enough to hold their shape. Should also be fairly easy to add some "battle damage" to them. 

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14 hours ago, Jhedir6 said:

Electrical tape under the medical tape might give it some more depth and rigidity. I was gonna try several layers of electrical tape painted matte black. Might try the mix of the two now.

Electrical tape doesn't age well. Particularly due to the adhesive. 

13 hours ago, Aaronw said:

Oh, one last thing, is the idea that these are being built for the 2019 race, so modern support equipment, fire extinguishers, radios, 1st aid kits, fuel cans etc would be assumed?  

Correct.

1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

When I made mud flaps for a semi truck build I took blue painters tape and folded back on itself with the two sticky sides together and painted it black. It was the right amount of rigidity and flexibility and had a nice scale thickness.

 

This is a good idea. Thanks folks.

I have one last part on the way for my '51 and then I will begin in earnest. I ended up having to get another '51 kit, as I'd parted-out my old one just a little too much. I used the inline 6 in another build and I ended up with trying to get the inline 6 from the AMT '37 Chevy to fit in the '51 but it just wasn't working and I was doing more harm than good to the chassis, trying to get it to fit. So at some point you have to drop back 10 yards and punt. A local friend/club member came through with another kit. I'm adding the X brace from the convertible kit, to strengthen up the chassis. I realize I may have done myself a disservice choosing the fast back and reducing my trunk space, but it's just such a pretty car. And the rear seat is not molded into the interior, so by omitting it, I'll gain a lot more storage that way.

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14 hours ago, Aaronw said:

I've done some looking and I'm going to go with a Ford Model T, the slow but steady choice.

It may seem an odd selection, but they were more tractor than car, and were made for driving the terrible roads of the time.

Family legend has it that around the early part of last century, my grandfather and one or two brothers set out to drive a Model T the farthest north into Canada than any car had ever driven. They lived in Saskatchewan. It was mostly off-road, using railroad bridges when possible to ford rivers. I'm told they succeeded, but it was probably a record soon broken.

I always embraced that story as a tribute to the mechanical spirit of the early car owners who were emboldened by the possibilities the automobile offered.

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My big issue so far is finding "mud" or off road tires for the Alfa or Porsche.  I have a set on the way from Spot model, but I'm not sure the tires are really what I want.  I have looked at some pickup tires but getting a rim that will work for the Alfa seems to be a challenge.  Most of the tires are to wide.  I remember some time ago someone cutting tires down and gluing them together.  They had some glue that they used that worked on the soft rubber.  Does anyone have any suggestions on that adhesive or other tire sources? 

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1 hour ago, Pete J. said:

My big issue so far is finding "mud" or off road tires for the Alfa or Porsche.  I have a set on the way from Spot model, but I'm not sure the tires are really what I want.  I have looked at some pickup tires but getting a rim that will work for the Alfa seems to be a challenge.  Most of the tires are to wide.  I remember some time ago someone cutting tires down and gluing them together.  They had some glue that they used that worked on the soft rubber.  Does anyone have any suggestions on that adhesive or other tire sources? 

CA glue seems to be the consensus on a few of posts I've found. One mentions black CA :blink:

 

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1 hour ago, Pete J. said:

My big issue so far is finding "mud" or off road tires for the Alfa or Porsche.  I have a set on the way from Spot model, but I'm not sure the tires are really what I want.  I have looked at some pickup tires but getting a rim that will work for the Alfa seems to be a challenge.  Most of the tires are to wide.  I remember some time ago someone cutting tires down and gluing them together.  They had some glue that they used that worked on the soft rubber.  Does anyone have any suggestions on that adhesive or other tire sources? 

I'm using Pirelli's from a Subaru WRC car (gravel version) They're a bit smaller and a tiny bit wider then I'd like but havent found anything else I like. I was looking at SpotModel too for some tires, which ones did you order? I may wait to see what the ones you ordered look like. I was going to get a set from Indaycals Shapeways store and he even split the F1 set and made a file with just the front tires so I could order multiples of the fronts so I could have 2 sets for the car and a set of spares, but the new prices has made the "fronts" file almost as much as the full set of 4.....meaning with shipping I'd have to spend almost $90 CDN for 6 tires.

Please let me know what tires you ordered Pete or post a pic when they arrive please.

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2 hours ago, Pete J. said:

My big issue so far is finding "mud" or off road tires for the Alfa or Porsche.  I have a set on the way from Spot model, but I'm not sure the tires are really what I want.  I have looked at some pickup tires but getting a rim that will work for the Alfa seems to be a challenge.  Most of the tires are to wide.  I remember some time ago someone cutting tires down and gluing them together.  They had some glue that they used that worked on the soft rubber.  Does anyone have any suggestions on that adhesive or other tire sources? 

I've used the adhesive from a pool liner patch kit

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3 hours ago, Pete J. said:

My big issue so far is finding "mud" or off road tires for the Alfa or Porsche.  I have a set on the way from Spot model, but I'm not sure the tires are really what I want.  I have looked at some pickup tires but getting a rim that will work for the Alfa seems to be a challenge.  Most of the tires are to wide.  I remember some time ago someone cutting tires down and gluing them together.  They had some glue that they used that worked on the soft rubber.  Does anyone have any suggestions on that adhesive or other tire sources? 

The AMT 32 Vicky (and many other kits of the time frame) came with a set of big and little Goodyear Rally GT's that I've always thought had a rather aggressive tread pattern. I think that a couple sets of the fronts would look good on the Porsche. I have many sets of these that I can certainly spare if needed. I'm at work now or I'd post a photo of the actual part.

Image result for AMT 32 vicky tires

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