Great Gatsby Peterbilt 7 stained glass and furniture tests

[olsbooks]

A fan of O. Winston Link, the Peterbilt "Class" ads of the 1970's and early 1980's, and as a fiction writer,  I have embarked upon a project to recreate many of the scenes from my books.  This is a first attempt and of course very early in building process, but a starting point.    The idea is to eventually take a micro camera and "stroll the streets".  This particular scene is not in the books but making use of what is laying around/currently in process.  Nothing is anywhere near "finished" as is obvious.

Front to back is a 1/25 Revell "Peterbilt 357.  It is a pretty much stock kit other than considerable rework of the headlamps, headlamp buckets, air cleaners, and white walls.  The buildings are 1/87 Walther's kits. They are detailed inside. Behind those sits a 1/160 (I beg to differ on the advertised scale as it is larger) Lindberg  Robert E. Lee riverboat that is also being highly detailed.   The "people" (for now) are paper dolls picked up for a couple of bucks from Hobby Lobby just to aid in perspective/placement. 

Ground effects will go in once a base is built and hope to find a good 1/43 scale (or so) 1920s era Packard or Cadillac to go between the semi and the buildings.  If no luck on a car, a similar era bi-plane,  or ??? is fair game.  The base will be limited to no more than 4'x4'

Other than "old school" tweaking on the pix, a rule of no photoshopping is imposed on my part.   I will stick with B&W and if video works,  have the "vintage" effects of pre wwII films.   

Peace.

Edited December 6, 2018 by olsbooks

[Gramps46]

Oh yes, I like where this is going.  Such a great theme.

[olsbooks]

Thank you.  Its been 35 years plus since trying something like this but I want to try. Some of the works I see here are incredible and inspiring. Got to do something constructive.

Truck is now pretty much done.  Boat about half complete.  Boat is lit but even wrapping the led's about 3 times with masking tape, they are still too strong.  Should have wrapped them more.  Didn't realize this until  it was too late.  To human eyes it's tolerable but horrible for the camera.

Heavy emphasis is going on the front staircase to give it a grand feel and trying to make it look like mahogony.

Work on detailing buildings further is underway.  Haven't decided yet on a car or biplane to transition between the truck and buildings.

Peace

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

JC..... I am very interested in what you are trying to do here, and for a number of reasons, but what fascinates me most is your idea to use different scales going from foreground to background. I noticed you mentioned 1:25 scale truck, then 1:87 scale buildings, then 1:160 scale riverboat and then 1:43 scale Packard or Cadillac in there somewhere.

The reducing scale concept could work of course and it will be interesting to see how it comes together. My 1:24 scale diorama does have lighting inside the building, and I am also in the process of pulling a rolling chassis along the main street of the diorama using fishing line, and a small camera mounted on the rolling chassis. This has produced a short test video that gives the impression of driving a 1:24 scale car along the street, passing the Rolls-Royce dealership building on the left side, and a London black taxi cab appears to be travelling towards the camera in the opposite direction on the right hand side. My diorama includes all 1:24 scale cars, trucks, bus and coach, as well as figures that are diecast, plastic and 3D printed also. This project of mine has been 2 years in the making, this December and the diorama has been exhibited once at an International Rolls-Royce event in the UK.

If you want to exchange ideas or simply ask me the odd question, I would be happy to help you. I am 65 years of age now and still working, but able to find more time to work on the building of the diorama and building the scale model cars. Building an early 1950's Bedford OLBD dropside truck at the moment, to compliment my Bedford OLB petrol tanker. There is a red double-decker London bus, Rolls-Royce and Bentley cars, Talbot Lago, MG, Morgan, Jaguar and others, also motorcycle, motor scooter and bicycles too.

The photography is at a more advanced stage now, and I like to use black and white photography especially because of the period, which is 1958 specifically and this enhances the ' vintage ' look of the immediate post war period in this case.

Anyway JC, enough of my ramblings for now...... you can have a look at the Hooper & Co diorama in the dioramas section of MCM forums, which you may have done already.

David Watson  ( England )

[olsbooks]

Thank you very much and I shall. 

Yes, your current project is amazing.  What I may attempt in effort to keep the perspective correct is to use a scale ruler and build a 3d grid of sorts during construction and placement. It would be easily removable.  String perhaps...or those cheap pocket lasers.  Then, measure 10 foot cubes in 1/25 in  front then 1/160 or so on the rear and erect string or beams accordingly.   

In short a way to chop the whole thing into correctly proportioned cubes.

Nothing like making things more complex than necessary.  Hip shooting might work too and be lots more fun. 

We shall see.

Peace

 

 

[olsbooks]

A little tinkering around and update. 

There are no intentions to use the army truck however it is 1/43 scale and was laying around so it has been dropped in to help in spacing.  Model wise, the Peterbilt is done.  The building is undergoing a full detail job inside and will be lit.   The Robert E Lee is progressing with heavy rework as well.  The LED lighting wasn't satisfactory among other things.  More on a long list of refinements to it soon.  All detailing will be scratchbuilt from from Evergreen plastic, balsa, or paper...no 3D printing or pre-made items other than the basic kit. This is to be pure "old school" as I use this as a method to tap the brain instead of the keyboard.  There is no intent to slam those who embrace the newer technology.  It's great stuff.  I'm just killing time choosing to live like a neanderthal while doing so.

A "cheat" view is also attached to see the truth behind the scenes.  The tabletop is 42"x42" with about 36"x36" utilized. 

Peace

 

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

JC..... from the first of your two photos I can see how this is going to work, and of course camera angle, camera height and lighting are critical here. When taking photographs within my diorama I set up the camera on three wooden blocks, which corresponds to a height of 3 inches and this gives eye level view as seen by a 3" tall 1:24 scale figure. Also, I previously tried using LED lighting, but this produced a strong blueish hue in the resulting photos. Now I have dolls house lighting which is much nicer, and produces a soft warm glow somewhat like vintage lighting. The LED's produce no heat, whereas the dolls house lighting bulbs do get warm inside a scale model building.

Your second photo does show clearly how you need to arrange your models to achieve the desired effect. I am sure this can be done, and you obviously know what you're doing. Following your thinking, I might try out some ideas with different scale models in my settings. For example, I have a 1:16 scale Daimler-Benz carriage that is too large for the 1:24 diorama, but using your concept maybe I can have the carriage at some point in the background and make it work visually.

David

[Gramps46]

JC

You are exploring new territory here for us and I find it very exciting.  Please keep us posted on your progress and thoughts.

Gary

[olsbooks]

Thank you for the kind comments.  2 quick things..

1) to soften and warm the blue/laser like LED's,  I wrapped them about a half dozen times with regular masking tape..and then a few times more.  It did the trick.  I'm too much of a tightwad/make use of what is laying around kind of guy.  That's part of the discovery process in this thing. 

2) Hopefully I can pick up a big chunk of 2" thick foam board (like used in house construction) soon.  Ol' Robt. E. Lee can then  get out of drydock.  The foam will become the base.  Being the cheap psychopath I am, the idea of buying one of those "hot wires" to cut and shape is absolutely out of the question.  I'll do the best I can with a butcher knife and razor blades then have a good time with spray carburetor cleaner.  It doesn't take much and presto...instant "rough terrain" with crevices, rocks, and all that in seconds.  No mess, molds, and cheap.

Another inspiration for this project comes from a quote by my hero, Dr. Seuss.  Something to the effect of "sometimes it does people good to look through the wrong end of a telescope" and of course the famous line by the Wizard of Oz.  "Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain". 

Peace. 

 

Edited November 27, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

Not sure if masking tape would have warmed these LED's that I was using at the beginning of the project...... only joking, as they were quite powerful aquarium lamps, and one lamp on each floor!

David

[disabled modeler]

I like it..!

[olsbooks]

Maybe duct tape..  Those things you have would work as welders.   Hmmmm. Now that could make an interesting activity inside a shop.  Just have a blue led flickering.  Well, perhaps someone else can chase that one.

Fyi  A great source of tiny lamps and led's has been found at the dollar stores after Christmas.  Battery holder, switch and a dozen or so lights for a buck.   I'm toying with my last string acquired last year with a pantograph/track/bus type arrangement.  If it works, I should be able to simply drop on and move the lamps as desired for effect.  Essentially the roof cross beams in the building will be energized with 3vdc.  Pix in a few days.

Peace

Edited November 28, 2018 by olsbooks

[blackbeard]

fantastic craftsman ship on well done build

[olsbooks]

Thank you Henry.  I shot you a reply on the air cleaners but if you didn't get it, they are made from wind chime pipe and fuel strainer screen. 

Been on a roll for the past few days.  Get while the getting is good so the saying goes. It's a long one and may be it for a while once the crash comes.

Update 4 Lighting

Not saying my way is “right” or “the best” so keep that in mind. Cheap, use the brain instead of the keyboard and simple (to me) are first priorities. Maybe some of you might find this silly or ??? while others might pick up some ideas. To the later, I will attempt to do better explaining how I come up with and assemble things.

Lighting is one of those things that can hit a wallet hard so as mentioned in an earlier post, wait until after Christmas and load up on battery powered LED and incandescent of lights from the dollar store.

Boat:

For the Robert E Lee, you will see the LED string wrapping the lamps in masking tape and installing several light barriers and a few above deck yet to be wrapped. The results seem to be working out well. The battery compartment was installed in the hull so the batteries can be easily changed. The on off switch is use of a microswitch. On and off is accomplished by moving the “bar” made out of strip of metal. It acts as a lever to depress the switch finger. With this arrangement, another lever can be applied to extend outside” the diorama instead of having to reach in and under the boat. The boat will still be removable once installed, however other than for an occasional battery change or a good cleaning, wont be often.  For glazing on the boat (none in kit), I slopped in cheap Elmers clear school glue.  (not the more common white variety)  It does a great job for small windows for only $1 for a bottle.  I now use it to hold all windshields and glass though it has minimal holding abilities on styrene.

  For those interested in trying one of these Lindberg Robt E Lee kits, (advertised as 1/160 scale though I say its larger)  I find it a nice kit with this my second. The first one built was done step by step by the instructions. Results were fair. This time, as Frank Sinatra sang, I did it my way. The railings and large pieces around the stern and paddlewheels will lead to alcoholism, blasphemy, or fits of rage if you want to really get things snugged up and square. It is being built as “modules” starting from the stern and working forward. There is zero forgiveness once you get into rear third of this kit or with the railings. This alternative assembly method still leaves gaps and flaws but is coming out much better. For the price ($25 at Ollies), I wont complain. Other than the white, all is brush painted. “Upper decks” in the kit lack planking so I scribed them in using a the backside of an exacto blade and steel ruler. The wood color is achieved with Valego desert tan, German black/brown, and red leather. Dipping the brush in all three colors, I them “mix” the colors as I paint. The “royal staircase” has less desert yellow and is slopped over with Valejo clear varnish to represent a varnished mahogany. If I can figure out a way to place a red carpet on these steps that will lay down flat, square, and look right, that's on the list.

Building:

Building lighting is an experiment based on a combination of DC lighting systems and railroad telegraph systems utilized a hundred plus years ago along with the old machine shop line shaft. These incandescent bulbs are from another battery powered string of lights I hacked into years ago and had some bulbs remaining. Carefully cutting off wire and “boot”, I soldered on copper wire fingers. Brass “beams” are powered and the bulbs will rest on top/hang from them. I planned on having cross beams/rafters in the building anyway for strength and this idea hit. The exact placement of the beams is yet to be determined but the ability to move the lights around, add, or remove them will be easy. Like the boat, 3V is the power source. (the bulbs are rated for 6). The lamp reflectors are a good example of my cheap nature. Flat washers, a drinking straw, and white glue. Once dry, a little sanding, clean up, and paint should produce something decent. The bottom of the reflectors will be painted with a Molotowe chrome pen to maximize reflection from the bulb and with the weight of the washers, should suffice to ensure good electrical contact.

The building itself is a 1/87 Walthers model RR kit. It is an excellent kit with no interior. I constructed a “inside” wall system so the kit drops over it during the early stages of construction. The interior is all Evergreen styrene with the exception of the flooring in the front. That wood floor is Formica samples obtained from Lowes or Home Depot years ago. Interior doors are under construction built from styrene and all the odds and ends to finish the interior will be fabricated from styrene, balsa, or paper in coming months. Weathering the shop floor remains a challenge. It is easier said than done for me and want to figure a good, simple way of doing so that is realistic. My attempts over the years are “so so” at best and find most of those that attempt it are seldom pleased with the results unless a master artist with excellent airbrushing skills and scores of colors of paints at the ready. That, I am not but want to find an alternate route up this mountain.

The fuel container came in this kit with the hose a piece of wire and the “nozzle” made from an unused gun the 1/43 army truck kit.  Decals are from those supplied with the Peterbilt normally seen in the pix.

Sorry the pix are out of order.  I'm sure space will be an issue soon enough if posts this size continue and need to identify a solution.

Peace

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

That Robert E Lee kit of yours is indeed a nice one, and I particularly like the staircase rising up from those decks with which you have done a fine job. Some clever stuff going on there with the on/off switch and the lights in the windows are just right. The only paints that I haven't tried are the Vallejo colours, and I do have a local stockist of Vallejo now so there's no reason not to give them a try. Your colour mix is rich and interesting. Weathering and ageing is certainly an acquired skill that not everyone can get right without a great deal of effort. If it's anything like portrait painting, which I used to do when I was younger, sometimes you can ' accidently ' hit on the right formula after many hours of struggling to achieve a realistic likeness. From what you have said, and shown in these recent photos, you have made good progress with this project and it will be exciting as it evolves along the way.

David

[olsbooks]

Thank you.  I'm hooked on valejo paints.  windshield washer fluid is an excellent and cheap thinner. 

The boat is now undergoing trimming out with 0.020 rod and half round plastic at major seams that still have gaps.  It was part of the reason for the satin white finish.  It matches raw evergreen plastic.  It helps considerably in my opinion yet doesn't detract.

Back on the valejo paints, I use enamels for the primary color then valejo for trim and details.  If I screw up, it comes off with a gentle scrape or q tip soaked in washer fluid without damaging the enamel.  It also airbrushes well with no mess.

I will post some tricks and more pix on the peterbilt in coming days.

Peace

 

[olsbooks]

Let me try this post again as the website or something crashed earlier.

Update 5 The Peterbilt and “Mary Elizabeth”

 

The truck is a box build Revell “snap” 1/25 scale kit available for many years. This kit (along with their Kenworth W900) are personal favorites for the price, quality, and potential.

 

The major “add ons/changes” are the air cleaners, exterior visor (made from scrap plastic) and white walls made of thin plastic. A great deal of time went into the headlamps and headlamp buckets. They are one piece solid chrome affairs molded as part of the grille with a single “snap” in headlamp lens for each bucket in the kit. I stripped and cut apart everything then reassembled in attempt to improve realism. Time wise, there is as much in these as anything on the kit. Much to my disgust, the pix reveal that despite my best efforts, the drivers side lamp has a bit of a list.

 

The front bumper was stripped and redone with chrome duct tape with BMF on the sides. I'm pleased with the results and will continue this practice where possible in the future. Anyone tempted to try this chrome tape, it only works on a perfectly flat surface. Also, you get only “one shot” per piece of tape. If not perfect the first time, peel it off, clean the surface and start over. Cutting out the tow hook slots and fog lamps was no pleasure even with a brand new exacto blade and resulted in a few more “re-do's” before getting it right.

 

Other than the grille, front wheels, and roof top items, all other chrome was redone/added using a Molotowe chrome pen. The quality in the kit supplied chrome parts left much to be desired on most pieces. Having no success with Alclad or BMF on large or complex surfaces despite dozens of attempts over the years, Molotowe chrome works well for fools like myself. It takes a little practice to get the hang of, but by the second or third try, its tendencies and flow become predictable with good results without the fuss and frustration. The surface should be bare plastic, perfectly clean, and allowed 24 hours to dry before handling. Be aware this stuff is a dust magnet during the application process and in early stages of drying. Should dust make its way in, brake fluid removes it easily for a “re-do”.

 

A few details were added under the hood made of wire, though minimal. The dual Vortox air cleaners (made from wind chime pipe and fuel strainer screen) were surprisingly easy to conjure up. For those considering making large air cleaners like these for this or the Kenworth kits, be mindful of the hood tilting. Honestly, I got lucky. If the air cleaners were located 0.001 more forward or lower on the cab, the hood wouldn't clear. Ductwork to them and associated underhood piping is made from flexible drinking straws.

 

The cab/sleeper is designed for easy removal for cleaning and potential addition of interior lighting. The air cleaners and stacks are glued to the cab with connector pipes “straws” slid into place.

 

The tanks and battery boxes are so called “chrome” spray paint. Tank straps (along with air cleaner straps) are made of the same chrome tape used on the bumper.

 

Primary paint is enamel: Testors spray can lime green and Krylon forest green. Stripes are Microscale HO scale 1” gold stripes. There is no clear coat. My attempts at clears usually do more harm than good. Once the paint dried for many days, cheap liquid car polish and polishing out with a microfiber cloth and Q tips followed. Minor orange peel remains but I can stomach that easier than blowing a finished paint job with a botched clear coat attempt. Trying to achieve “showroom” paint jobs like this has never been a priority as weathering or lower gloss are my norm.

 

The instrument cluster is detailed using the same techniques as the wood decking on the Robert E Lee on the dash board. Actually this was the training grounds for that process. Ditto the “mahogany” steering wheel. Gauge rims, switches, and levers were touched with Molotowe chrome. Gauge faces are black and scraped with an exacto blade to call out the numbers and needles in white. Overall, the interior is painted in Krylon semi gloss black which has a respectable vinyl/leather like finish.

 

While unable to get a decent picture of it, the sleeper is detailed (somewhat) using a chunk of a paper towel soaked in mixture of water and white glue then placed over the “mattress” to represent a blanket. The colors and pattern in the paper towel remain detectable. With the naked eye, one can almost catch a glimpse of it. As stated, lighting on the inside would help and might happen at some point.

 

Other details that help (in my opinion) includes adding of the additional mirror brackets (made from the molded in CB antenna's that come on the mirrors) and painting inside the horn bells black then swishing around a clean Q tip to remove the excess. Glazing is made from a food container lid...a Wendy's salad container. The kit comes with a horribly thick windshield with incorrect placement of the wipers molded in. Amber lights are painted with a blend of Valejo yellow with a touch of red then gloss varnish.

 

The lady in the picture, let's call her Mary Elizabeth in keeping with the setting, is from the Peterbilt ad somewhat being replicated. The picture was cropped using Microsoft Paint in several “slices” then pasted into the model truck picture using Open Office's drawing program. Once done, the picture was saved as a PDF then converted to a B&W JPG. This is all open source/free software and quite simple to use The idea behind using the slicing method was to minimize “digital painting/touchup” of the truck model. Being a first attempt, there is much room for improvement but for an experiment, it passes. By the time the rest of the models are complete and entire scene set up, a bit of precision and proficiency will hopefully develop and fewer pixels needing “repair”. If you look close, you will see an abundance of “touch ups” to the truck though B&W minimizes and this picture is not meant to be examined with a microscope.

 

The search for scale model people continued to come up short leading to this approach. To me, the characters I'm searching for and realism aren't available without a big budget and painting skills of a master artist. Lacking both, “photo-shopped/cut and paste” people via this technique will likely be the practice going forward. Ultimately, the goal of creating illustrations for my books and cover art now seams possible without shelling out big bucks, compromising, or dealing with anyone else's BS other than my own...for which there is a sufficient amount already.

 

Work on the boat and buildings continues with some interesting discoveries. More on these in the next post.

 

Peace

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

JC..... Your work on the Peterbilt truck is excellent, and I hadn't heard of chrome duct tape.... possibly not available in England? Myself, I do like the Molotow liquid chrome pens and I have found that for best results you need to apply the liquid chrome over a high gloss surface. This can be gloss paint, or highly polished plastic or the best finish is Yacht Varnish.

Interesting technique with the OpenOffice drawing program, and I agree that finding the most suitable figures in the scale required is very difficult. Painting figures to look like real people is a very precise skill that not many of us can master ( myself included ). Also, you make a good point about the finish on the painted truck not needing to be showroom quality, and this applies to models that I build and paint, apart from the Rolls-Royce motor cars that do need to be as near perfect as humanly possible.

I did apply two coats of clearcoat for several of my early model cars, but I discovered later that the finish wasn't as expected so I tend to wait until the final matt coat has dried for around one week, and then polish the bodywork with Meguiars Carnauba Wax polish, using microfibre cloth and yellow duster to finish off.

David

[olsbooks]

Never considered yacht varnish.  Hmmm.   I tried using gloss paint (I use mostly acrylics) and Molotowe didn't want to play nice with it.  This will be revisited with lacquer or enamel in the future.

Well, we gotta go for perfection on a Rolls....that's for sure.  I always dreamed of working there or at Bentley but is one of those things they and I are probably better off having never happened.

The chrome tape is actually "DUCK" brand.  While not knowing what is available on your side of the pond, maybe this will help.  Autoparts stores also have similar products though what I have found so far is a bit thick.

https://www.duckbrand.com/products/craft-decor

Peace.

Edited December 1, 2018 by olsbooks

[olsbooks]

Progress update on the boat.  The lower 3 decks are basically complete less cargo and what not.  The upper most deck is receiving considerable attention as it will be scrutinized most.  There are no railings in the kit and the steps supplied, well, stink.  Fabrication has begun and you will see my cheap method for spacing the the uprights. Window screen.

Things are just set in place at this point to figure out where to go next.

Question.  I want replicate simple stained glass in the little windows currently painted green. Suggestions on how?

The search for a model to go between the peterbilt and the building has been found.  It will be built as a civilian version and undergo some modifications. A car or biplane may yet appear but this model looked very interesting and has other uses down the line. 

Peace

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

Interesting unusual model that artillery tractor JC.... you don't see those every day! The diesel tank on the artillery tractor looks very similar to the tank on your boat deck. As regards the stained glass windows, I think you might be struggling to achieve an effect that will be noticed, due to the small size. I thought maybe dots of different colours, like red, blue and yellow paint which could be smudged slightly...... but as I say, this might not show up to well at that scale. The steps work well and the overall appearance of the boat is very good.

David

[olsbooks]

Testing the waters.  Stained glass has potential with this method though thick.  Also, this is my first attempt at building furniture.  1/87 is rough on the eyes and hands, that's for sure.  Not perfect by any means. Amateurish and crude but both seem to be headed in the right direction and wanted to share my elation.  As stated in the classic movie, bride of frankenstein, "it is alive!".

As a writer, the goal of creating illustrations for my books holds promise. 

So,  hop behind the wheel of your peterbilt and pay a visit to fixx motors in mospan, south dakota.  Behind the desk sits warner fixx.  Now 80, he has a lifetime of stories to tell selling the first crawler tractors in 1912, then home light plants, then specializing in massive highway snow plow construction and repair. 

It is the late 1960's.

Welcome to the world of Mac Fixx. 

Btw, the picture of the gentleman is a cut and paste into a shot taken through the office door.  Being so clos e up like that,  001 off or a gap on anything sticks out like a soar thumb.  This bit of photo magic converting it to a sketch evaded that issue pretty well as I want people looking at him...not so much the gaps in the trim, crooked windows, or crappy paint job.

Peace.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by olsbooks

[Anglia105E]

Jesse....... I think the small stained windows are a significant improvement on the other simple windows, and you have done well at that scale. This is something that worries me about trying 1:43 scale, and you are working in 1:87 which is even harder. I find that 1:24 is probably the smallest that I can go. Anyway, the conversion to a sketch for your Warner Fixx seems to have worked and I like those office spaces, with the furniture and the wall signs looking correct to scale. Your story and characters are beginning to come alive in your mind, and this process will fit in with your book writing of course. I remember you saying that you are a writer, and I myself have written and published three novels, while working on my fourth novel. These books have been self published with the help of Create Space in the USA and I find them an excellent company to deal with. My novels are set in Cornwall, England and they are detective stories that follow on with each paperback novel. My books are not illustrated but you can incorporate this Peterbilt project into your books, which will be an exciting and interesting platform for your work, in both types of media actually.

David

[olsbooks]

Thank you. The whole great gatsby scene has nothing to do with my writings and is only a test.  The building and holt tractor do however.  My writings are a mixture of ayn rand and mark twain with a little cs lewis thrown in.  The idea of creating a combination novel/coloring book for adults has been bouncing around lately with audiobook.  Videos were tried but run into too much legal hoopla and drama.

I'll look into create space and your works. 

Give the tiny stuff a try.  Until this, anything less than 1/16 didn't seem doable anymore for me.  I rarely use a magnifying glass, shake like a leaf, and don't measure worth a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH.   

Peace

[Anglia105E]

Create Space is the Print on Demand company owned by Amazon, and my novels are listed on the Amazon website. These are the three book covers.

David