Lacquer Thinner for Bob's Paints?

[crowe-t]

What lacquer thinner will work for Bob's Paints?  Bob's Paints are actually PPG Duracryl lacquer but I can't find PPG lacquer thinner.

I'm also trying to find a lacquer thinner that isn't too hot.  I can get a quart of lacquer thinner from Tamco Paint for $12 but I haven't tried it yet.  I've tried Tamco's Urethane reducer but it's a hot solvent.  Urethane reducer can be used to thin lacquer but Tamco's isn't the best for plastic models.

Edited December 17, 2018 by crowe-t

[Exotics_Builder]

I have used the lacquer thinner you buy in Hardware Store Paint section.  I experimented with it and it seemed to work well.  As a plus, I use the same to thin Testor Enamel paints.  Give it a try, as it is inexpensive and PPG thinner (if you can find it) is not.

[crowe-t]

3 hours ago, Exotics_Builder said:

I have used the lacquer thinner you buy in Hardware Store Paint section.  I experimented with it and it seemed to work well.  As a plus, I use the same to thin Testor Enamel paints.  Give it a try, as it is inexpensive and PPG thinner (if you can find it) is not.

Does it go down smooth and glossy with the Hardware store lacquer thinner?

Edited December 17, 2018 by crowe-t

[Exotics_Builder]

On the test body I tried it on, it did.  I used an Iwata Gravity feed cup airbrush.  I did not have time to do more than the test because I needed to "close the shop" for the move.  I will get back to it after the move is complete and the paint booth set up.  If necessary, contact Bob and ask his recommendation.  He told me at the DuPage swap meet about a year ago to try the hardware store lacquer thinner. 

[Kris Morgan]

Cheap hardware store stuff is just fine. I use a brand called Sunny Side. Like Gerry. I use the same thinner for everything.

[aurfalien]

Hi,

While I use cheap lacquer thinners from hardware stores, I've noticed that both the Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners are not hot and seem to have an odd wetting affect on my air brush.

A sort of lube and retarder at the same time.

I'm not suggesting either for your lacquer of choice, but as for me, I'll only use Tamiya, Alclad and Model Master lacquers for my models.

 

[Snake45]

2 hours ago, Kris Morgan said:

Cheap hardware store stuff is just fine. I use a brand called Sunny Side. Like Gerry. I use the same thinner for everything.

I've used Sunny in the past (with Testor enamels) and it worked fine. My current can says Klean Strip (from Walmart) and it also works fine. 

[Exotics_Builder]

49 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I've used Sunny in the past (with Testor enamels) and it worked fine. My current can says Klean Strip (from Walmart) and it also works fine. 

And I just messaged Bob and he said medium grade HW store lacquer thinner works fine.  I use my Tamiya and Gunze Lacquer thinners for some paints (such as my remaining Cobra Colors).  

[peteski]

What is a "medium grade lacquer thinner".  I don't ever recall seeing that in a hardware store.  Usually the container just states the name of the company making it and then "lacquer thinner".

Now if you go to a body shop supply store, they have reducers (thinners) which can be hot, medium, or cool (made for spray-painting 1:1 vehicles at different ambient temperatures).

Edited December 19, 2018 by peteski

[Exotics_Builder]

10 hours ago, peteski said:

What is a "medium grade lacquer thinner".  I don't ever recall seeing that in a hardware store.  Usually the container just states the name of the company making it and then "lacquer thinner".

Now if you go to a body shop supply store, they have reducers (thinners) which can be hot, medium, or cool (made for spray-painting 1:1 vehicles at different ambient temperatures).

My bad.  HW store lacquer thinner is supposedly medium grade or get a medium grade at the auto supply.  I haven't bought auto supply lacquer thinner for some time so have no comparison on cost versus the HW store.  The lacquer thinners I have in the stash are Mr. Color, Tamiya, HW store.

Edited December 19, 2018 by Exotics_Builder

[crowe-t]

I had tried Klean Strip and it didn't spray that smooth and wasn't glossy at all.  I know it has to be polished but it's nice if it goes on somewhat glossy so in tight spots and crevices where it's hard to get into it won't need to be polished.  

I'll give the Rust-Oleum lacquer thinner I have a try and I might try the automotive lacquer thinner from Tamco which is most likely similar to PPG.

[Zoom Zoom]

On 12/18/2018 at 12:22 PM, aurfalien said:

Hi,

While I use cheap lacquer thinners from hardware stores, I've noticed that both the Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners are not hot and seem to have an odd wetting affect on my air brush. A sort of lube and retarder at the same time.

Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners are awesome!

I use Gunze (Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner, sometimes Mr. Leveling Thinner if blushing conditions warrant) with a variety of the "aftermarket" model car paints. I learned 25 or so years ago when LMG productions was selling the line of House of Kolors candy lacquers and bases that Gunze thinner was their suggested thinner of choice. Roughly 15 years ago I was fighting ghost lines on a model painted w/Black Gold's HOK paints and Cobra Colors clear; it suddenly dawned on me the old recommendation about using Gunze thinner. Suddenly my clearcoats were going down smooth as enamel and not causing the previous ghosting issues that plagued the paint job every time I applied clear. Problem solved.

I used Mr. Color Thinner this past week on this vintage (from '76) Monogram Porsche 911 Carrera that was molded in yellow. Prepped the sanded mold lines with liquid cement to prevent ghosting, used hobby primers (Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer) and a mix of some automotivetouchup.com's (Pontiac) Atlantis Blue w/some vintage Cobra Colors Porsche Polar Silver got me the desired shade of blue. It thinned the mixture of both colors perfectly. I use Mr. Color Thinner on nearly of all my builds; whether automotive based or Tamiya or Mr. Hobby lacquers decanted or from a jar. Tamiya lacquer thinner should work as well, but with either it's good to test a bit in a mixing cup w/color of choice to make sure it mixes and doesn't clump up into a glob of gel. Hardware store thinners are great for cleaning my airbrush, I don't mind paying a bit more $ for quality reducers for my colors and clear. In the long run it pays off.

[crowe-t]

Bob, The color on the Porsche 911 Carrera looks great!  The finish looks very smooth.  

I didn't think Gunze thinner would be hot enough to work in automotive lacquer.  I have Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner so I'll give it a try.  

[Snake45]

14 hours ago, crowe-t said:

I know it has to be polished but it's nice if it goes on somewhat glossy so in tight spots and crevices where it's hard to get into it won't need to be polished.  

 

The trick to that is to lay a nice wet coat into those tight spots and crevices LAST. Overspray and orange peel are then easy to polish off all the nice wide open areas. 

[aurfalien]

6 hours ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners are awesome!

Your paint job on that 911 looks awesome!

What ratio do you use for both your Mr. Color Thinner and Mr. Leveling Thinner?

 

 

Edited December 20, 2018 by aurfalien

[Zoom Zoom]

2 hours ago, aurfalien said:

Your paint job on that 911 looks awesome!

What ratio do you use for both your Mr. Color Thinner and Mr. Leveling Thinner?

 

 

Thanks! 

I use the same ratio as any thinner, no exact number. Enough to thin the paint to a consistency roughly similar to 2% milk so it flows smoothly. Sometimes pre-thinned paints need a few drops, unthinned paint often needs roughly 1 part paint to 1 part thinner. Often I use more thinner for the wetter layers of clear. Your mileage may vary. 

[aurfalien]

1 hour ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Thanks! 

I use the same ratio as any thinner, no exact number. Enough to thin the paint to a consistency roughly similar to 2% milk so it flows smoothly. Sometimes pre-thinned paints need a few drops, unthinned paint often needs roughly 1 part paint to 1 part thinner. Often I use more thinner for the wetter layers of clear. Your mileage may vary. 

Well unfortunately the 2% milk reference is lost on me as its been decades since I drank that swill.

Do you have any other references that I can use?

I thin Alclad/Tamiya lacquers by about 1 part thinner to 3 parts paint.

For Tamiya acrylics, its about 1 part thinner to 1 part paint.

[Zoom Zoom]

I don't have any exact references; I paint by feel. Mix, test spray, adjust, and go. Every paint is different. Keep your thinner nearby w/some pipettes to add enough thinner to adjust paint flow if it needs to be smoother; if it's too runny add more paint. The best thing instead of focusing too much on theoretical numbers is to get acquainted with your paints by testing them out. I never thin Alclad, it sprays perfectly through my airbrush. Decanted Tamiya, maybe 1 part thinner to 10 parts paint. I just shot some Tamiya acrylic that was maybe 1/3 thinner, 2/3 paint. 

[crowe-t]

On 12/20/2018 at 9:50 AM, Zoom Zoom said:

Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners are awesome!

I use Gunze (Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner, sometimes Mr. Leveling Thinner if blushing conditions warrant) with a variety of the "aftermarket" model car paints. I learned 25 or so years ago when LMG productions was selling the line of House of Kolors candy lacquers and bases that Gunze thinner was their suggested thinner of choice. Roughly 15 years ago I was fighting ghost lines on a model painted w/Black Gold's HOK paints and Cobra Colors clear; it suddenly dawned on me the old recommendation about using Gunze thinner. Suddenly my clearcoats were going down smooth as enamel and not causing the previous ghosting issues that plagued the paint job every time I applied clear. Problem solved.

I used Mr. Color Thinner this past week on this vintage (from '76) Monogram Porsche 911 Carrera that was molded in yellow. Prepped the sanded mold lines with liquid cement to prevent ghosting, used hobby primers (Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer) and a mix of some automotivetouchup.com's (Pontiac) Atlantis Blue w/some vintage Cobra Colors Porsche Polar Silver got me the desired shade of blue. It thinned the mixture of both colors perfectly. I use Mr. Color Thinner on nearly of all my builds; whether automotive based or Tamiya or Mr. Hobby lacquers decanted or from a jar. Tamiya lacquer thinner should work as well, but with either it's good to test a bit in a mixing cup w/color of choice to make sure it mixes and doesn't clump up into a glob of gel. Hardware store thinners are great for cleaning my airbrush, I don't mind paying a bit more $ for quality reducers for my colors and clear. In the long run it pays off.

I sprayed a sample of Bob's Paint today and thinned it with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner.  It worked nicely.  I didn't think Gunze thinner was strong enough for PPG auto lacquer but it works.

Does the Gunze thinner make the PPG lacquer less 'hot'?

I also sprayed a sample with Rust-Oleum lacquer thinner that I use to clean the airbrush and it didn't spray as smooth or as glossy.

Edited December 21, 2018 by crowe-t

[Zoom Zoom]

The Gunze thinner certainly made my Cobra Colors clear much less hot; it made it (finally) shoot as smooth as enamel and it stopped ghosting the underlying bodywork. That was 15 or more years ago after foggily remembering that Gunze thinner was the best for thinning HOK lacquers. It's my go-to thinner of choice, but if I try it w/a new brand I always do a jar test w/a bit of paint to see how it reacts. My friend told me he had excellent results recently w/Gunze thinner w/Zero paints. 

[crowe-t]

13 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

The Gunze thinner certainly made my Cobra Colors clear much less hot; it made it (finally) shoot as smooth as enamel and it stopped ghosting the underlying bodywork. That was 15 or more years ago after foggily remembering that Gunze thinner was the best for thinning HOK lacquers. It's my go-to thinner of choice, but if I try it w/a new brand I always do a jar test w/a bit of paint to see how it reacts. My friend told me he had excellent results recently w/Gunze thinner w/Zero paints. 

I just sprayed the sample on a small piece of styrene so it wasn't obvious if it was less hot.  Mine and your friend Rob turned me on to Gunze lacquers and thinner.  I also use Gunze Mr. Super Clear that I decant and add some Mr. Leveling thinner in my airbrush.  The Mr. Leveling thinner worked perfectly in the PPG lacquer.  I'm glad it worked since I didn't want to use automotive lacquer thinner.  The PPG lacquer is already a hot paint.

Edited December 21, 2018 by crowe-t

[Muncie]

Well, none of this applies to the current conversation but what the heck...  I picked up my last gallon of PPG thinner a couple of years ago.  I'm sure the formula has changed a bit since the old days and it's probably not available most places due to environmental regulations.  In the full size world, the new automotive paints are probably better for their intended purpose in refinishing real cars anyway.  Things change.

The PPG thinner came in three formulas for painting in different temperatures. For model cars,  I preferred DTL-105 High Gloss Slow Thinner which was recommended for 85 to 110 degree temperature.  PPG's 1976 Ditzler Repaint Manual says "worth every cent it costs"  I always tried to paint about 70 degrees and we don't have much humidity around here.  The PPG recommended thinning ratio is 2 parts lacquer and 3 parts thinner.  18 psi in a Badger 200 airbrush.  The paint flowed out well with the slow thinner.  Under the paint , I used Plasti-Kote T235 Gray primer and although it's not popular around here, I applied sealer after the sanding was finished before the top coats.

It's good to see the information that's been posted here.  It's been an interesting topic.  It's very helpful and I'll need it when I run out of the PPG thinner.

Edited December 21, 2018 by Muncie