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First time resin user


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I would first thoroughly  clean the body. Some use Dawn detergent, while others might use something like Whestley's Bleach White for instance. You want to make sure that all of the mold release is off the resin.

When it comes to sanding, you'll want to take care that you don't sand off any details. Resin is much 'softer' than plastic and can wear away at a faster rate.

Of course like anything else, it's a good idea to use a primer before you paint. Any type should do as resin is 'bout impervious to hot paints unlike styrene, so no paint should hurt it. However, you'll want to make sure that your paint is compatible with each other. No putting lacquer over enamel for instance. You can put enamel over lacquer with no problem.

Hope this helps!

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Michael I should add that if you're painting a hood that's resin, I strongly advise painting both sides of the hood as resin can warp especially if the hood is somewhat thin in molding. The paint can shrink over time and if the other side is not painted, the paint can pull against the hood making it curl .

I had this happen not once but twice to a '64 Olds F-85 hood, so just a bit of caution is needed with that. ;)

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As mentioned by TarheelRick, I would do any sanding as far away from your building space as possible. Resin dust from sanding can be a real problem when it gets on the styrene. I always use Duplicolor automotive primer on the resin parts. Most model paint including the primers just don't stick as well as the automotive primers. After the resin is sealed with a good covering of primer then you can go about your painting as usual.  

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10 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

I would first thoroughly  clean the body. Some use Dawn detergent, while others might use something like Whestley's Bleach White for instance. You want to make sure that all of the mold release is off the resin.

How do you know mold release was used?

Michael, ask whoever you purchased the body from what is needed to prep for paint. No two companies are exactly alike, and the caster knows better than anyone what materials and methods were used to create to body you are using.. If you bought it from a re-seller, try to find out who made the body.

It's always a good idea to wash every part with a mild soap and water solution, but I would advise against using any string chemicals unless it was specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

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2 hours ago, cobraman said:

I don't know if this is true or not but I was told one time if tape does not stick to the body it is not ready for paint. True ???? Can't say that I know.

Dunno if it's true but it sure makes sense. Kinda like, if it still smells like paint, it ain't dry. B)

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On 12/20/2018 at 1:45 AM, MrObsessive said:

Michael I should add that if you're painting a hood that's resin, I strongly advise painting both sides of the hood as resin can warp especially if the hood is somewhat thin in molding. The paint can shrink over time and if the other side is not painted, the paint can pull against the hood making it curl .

I had this happen not once but twice to a '64 Olds F-85 hood, so just a bit of caution is needed with that. ;)

Mr Obsessive is right . I use Whestlies . I then Use Ivory to clean away all that remains . It is 99.9 % Pure . No lanolin . Lanolin is great to keep your skin moist . Bad for paint . It Causes "Fish Eyes" in the finish .  As does the fingerprints you leave on the subject you are painting . I use gloves and Tack Rags ..   When I paint , it is a month long ordeal . Primer , fine sand /fix any flaws . Spot prime / blend for universal coverage . Fine sand .  Sealer Primer . Color . Clearcoat .  Yes , some still 'go swimming" . I wait until the paint cures . Not Gassout . Thanx . 

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