sbk Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 9 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Any luck, Bob Downie (zoomzoom) will chime in here. He's the guy who's had the most experience spraying the stuff that I know of. Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCRWDRVR Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 I ordered a set of the markers yesterday to try first, maybe next pay I'll order some bare metal foil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) On 1/2/2019 at 7:20 AM, sbk said: Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum. Thanks, This reminds me (again after you told me about this earlier...CRS is a wonderful affliction ), I need to order some new Spaz Stix clear and revisit the Molotow w/clear subject. My old jar of Spaz Stix clear worked almost perfectly on airbrushed Molotow, results were startlingly good. I hope they didn't mess with the formula. Cliff's Notes for others: I airbrush the Molotow chrome in WET coats at about 20 psi, and the clear is also applied in similarly wet coats. Forget the term "mist coats", this isn't like other paints and techniques, Molotow and the clear need to be shot wet! And let the Molotow dry thoroughly before using clear. Another hint for Molotow drying: don't put it in a dehydrator for at least a few hours, better to wait overnight. I had some hubcaps that looked like great satin chrome after they were placed in the dehydrator right after spraying. I reshot those again (wet...), and waited for about 3 hours, then put in dehydrator with no loss of gloss. I had witnesses! Was working on this w/a group of friends that regularly get together to work on our model projects. Molotow dries slowly, so the more time you let it dry at ambient temperature the better, especially if you are not going to put a clear protector film on it. That's where I'd just put it aside for a couple weeks and handle w/kid gloves. It's still far more durable then than any Alclad or Spaz Stix chrome. Edited January 7, 2019 by Zoom Zoom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 ^^^ Thanks Bob. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 (edited) I use BMF for those "old school chrome parts" on the body. I mostly strip the kits' chrome parts such as bumpers or engine parts off their "paint" and generously hand-brush them with Molotov Liquid Chrome (MLQ). In the next step and in order to seal/ protect the MLQ layer I apply a thin layer of Alclad Liquid Gloss or AK Interactive "Gauzy Shine Enhancer". I'm not too big a fan of Alclad Chrome for several reasons, but I have seen some good results on a German forum from a guy who masks off chrome (body) parts such as window trims and then applies black base and Alclad Chrome cautiously... Edited January 8, 2019 by Tommy124 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 27 minutes ago, Tommy124 said: ...but I have seen some good results on a German forum from a guy who masks off chrome (body) parts such as window trims and then applies black base and Alclad Chrome cautiously... Any chance of getting a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy124 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 2 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Any chance of getting a link? Sure, why not. This is the WIP, it's finished now and you can see images of the completed build at the end of it: http://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&postID=838710#post838710 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 28 minutes ago, Tommy124 said: Sure, why not. This is the WIP, it's finished now and you can see images of the completed build at the end of it: http://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&postID=838710#post838710 THANK YOU !! Most impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 I usually use BMF for trim and larger emblems. For the scripts/letters on the body, I'll put BMF on the bare plastic, then primer and paint over them and use polish to bring the foil back out. It works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gizzy Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 On December 28, 2018 at 12:15 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: Easier than you may think. The foil is applied to the script before the final color coat and then the paint is cleaned from it later. Steve Yep,,,that's how I do it. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 On 12/28/2018 at 12:15 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: Easier than you may think. The foil is applied to the script before the final color coat and then the paint is cleaned from it later. Steve It works amazingly well, and isn't really difficult to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael jones Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 1 hour ago, Michael jones said: Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow. I painted with a coat of black primer, several coats of the Testor lacquer, and several coats of clear. To expose the foil, I wet-sanded with #1000 or #1500 paper until I got down to the black primer on the raised areas, then polished as normal with Wright's Silver Cream which took the black primer off as it smoothed out the paint. Worked fabulously, and I'll definitely be doing it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 6 hours ago, Michael jones said: Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow. If you wait to apply the foil until right before your final coat or 2 of color, you can clean it easily with a tiny bit of lacquer thinner on a conical swab or a sharpened tooth pick. The thinner will not damage the foil. I have done it the same way as snake, but be aware that if you polish too much, you can polish through the foil. You can get lots of nice affects with this technique. You can use paint & thinner to add color to your badges and emblems as well. I use this technique before clear and then just clear coat over them. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 12, 2019 Share Posted January 12, 2019 1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said: I have done it the same way as snake, but be aware that if you polish too much, you can polish through the foil. Steve I should have mentioned that I used cheap kitchen foil, which is thicker than the BMF Steve uses and will stand up to more polishing. One more trick: Larger emblems, such as the crossed flags front and rear on that '68 Corvette I showed above, can have their foil covered with a small drop of Elmer's glue before priming and painting. Just leave this in place until polishing is complete, then pop it right off. It might actually come off on its own during the polishing process, especially near the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael jones Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Great info guys thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuovoSFPD2n3/4 Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 On 12/29/2018 at 8:21 AM, Pete J. said: I have to add one more comment. I use all the above methods. I have been doing the BMF method for scripts for a very long time and it is far and away the easiest way to get clean scripts. I have also used BMF to make badges. Very time consuming but the results are good. BMF the badge, put a good glop of white glue on the badge, let it dry. Then a large glob of putty over that to act and a handle. Let it dry, then put it all off. Fill the back of the indentation in the BMF with thick super glue and let that cure. Put the whole mess in warm water to dissolve the white glue and you have your own badge. Sand it down to fit and bingo. Replacement badges. I might try that trick because I need the landau opera lights on the Revell Coupe de ville for my Jo-Han Coupe de ville build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuovoSFPD2n3/4 Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 On 1/11/2019 at 3:28 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: If you wait to apply the foil until right before your final coat or 2 of color, you can clean it easily with a tiny bit of lacquer thinner on a conical swab or a sharpened tooth pick. The thinner will not damage the foil. I have done it the same way as snake, but be aware that if you polish too much, you can polish through the foil. You can get lots of nice affects with this technique. You can use paint & thinner to add color to your badges and emblems as well. I use this technique before clear and then just clear coat over them. Steve Looks great! Do you trim the BFM as close to the subject as possible, or spread it out a little larger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuovoSFPD2n3/4 Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 On 12/29/2018 at 8:21 AM, Pete J. said: I have to add one more comment. I use all the above methods. I have been doing the BMF method for scripts for a very long time and it is far and away the easiest way to get clean scripts. I have also used BMF to make badges. Very time consuming but the results are good. BMF the badge, put a good glop of white glue on the badge, let it dry. Then a large glob of putty over that to act and a handle. Let it dry, then put it all off. Fill the back of the indentation in the BMF with thick super glue and let that cure. Put the whole mess in warm water to dissolve the white glue and you have your own badge. Sand it down to fit and bingo. Replacement badges. Your replacement badges are then "chromed" and just need trimming and polishing, is that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 53 minutes ago, NuovoSFPD2n3/4 said: Looks great! Do you trim the BFM as close to the subject as possible, or spread it out a little larger? Trim as close as possible. Depending on the thickness of your paint, the edges of the foil can show through if it is trimmed too wide. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete J. Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 3 hours ago, NuovoSFPD2n3/4 said: Your replacement badges are then "chromed" and just need trimming and polishing, is that right? Not quite. I over fill the indentation with super glue. I then sand it down with a sanding stick. When you just sand bearly through the BMF, you know you are on the edge, so no trimming required, but it takes a delicate touch to sand it just enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuovoSFPD2n3/4 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 On 7/23/2019 at 7:20 PM, StevenGuthmiller said: Trim as close as possible. Depending on the thickness of your paint, the edges of the foil can show through if it is trimmed too wide. Steve I understand that. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuovoSFPD2n3/4 Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 On 7/23/2019 at 10:35 PM, Pete J. said: Not quite. I over fill the indentation with super glue. I then sand it down with a sanding stick. When you just sand bearly through the BMF, you know you are on the edge, so no trimming required, but it takes a delicate touch to sand it just enough. I don't understand, but I will practice it to visualize the trick. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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