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SCRWDRVR

Chrome Chrome Chrome everywhere

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9 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Any luck, Bob Downie (zoomzoom) will chime in here. He's the guy who's had the most experience spraying the stuff that I know of.

Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum.

Thanks,

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I ordered a set of the markers yesterday to try first, maybe next pay I'll order some bare metal foil...

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Posted (edited)
On 1/2/2019 at 7:20 AM, sbk said:

Okay, Spaz clear didn't work out for me. Instant aluminum.

Thanks,

This reminds me (again after you told me about this earlier...CRS is a wonderful affliction :rolleyes:), I need to order some new Spaz Stix clear and revisit the Molotow w/clear subject. My old jar of Spaz Stix clear worked almost perfectly on airbrushed Molotow, results were startlingly good. I hope they didn't mess with the formula. Cliff's Notes for others: I airbrush the Molotow chrome in WET coats at about 20 psi, and the clear is also applied in similarly wet coats. Forget the term "mist coats", this isn't like other paints and techniques, Molotow and the clear need to be shot wet! And let the Molotow dry thoroughly before using clear. Another hint for Molotow drying: don't put it in a dehydrator for at least a few hours, better to wait overnight. I had some hubcaps that looked like great satin chrome after they were placed in the dehydrator right after spraying. I reshot those again (wet...), and waited for about 3 hours, then put in dehydrator with no loss of gloss. I had witnesses! ;) Was working on this w/a group of friends that regularly get together to work on our model projects. Molotow dries slowly, so the more time you let it dry at ambient temperature the better, especially if you are not going to put a clear protector film on it. That's where I'd just put it aside for a couple weeks and handle w/kid gloves. It's still far more durable then than any Alclad or Spaz Stix chrome. 

Edited by Zoom Zoom

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^^^   Thanks Bob. Much appreciated. 

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Posted (edited)

I use BMF for those "old school chrome parts" on the body. I mostly strip the kits' chrome parts such as bumpers or engine parts off their "paint" and generously hand-brush them with Molotov Liquid Chrome (MLQ). In the next step and in order to seal/ protect the MLQ layer I apply a thin layer of Alclad Liquid Gloss or AK Interactive "Gauzy Shine Enhancer". 

I'm not too big a fan of Alclad Chrome for several reasons, but I have seen some good results on a German forum from a guy who masks off chrome (body) parts such as window trims and then applies black base and Alclad Chrome cautiously...

Edited by Tommy124

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27 minutes ago, Tommy124 said:

...but I have seen some good results on a German forum from a guy who masks off chrome (body) parts such as window trims and then applies black base and Alclad Chrome cautiously...

Any chance of getting a link?

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I usually use BMF for trim and larger emblems.  For the scripts/letters on the body, I'll put BMF on the bare plastic, then primer and paint over them and use polish to bring the foil back out.  It works really well.  :)

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On December 28, 2018 at 12:15 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Easier than you may think.

The foil is applied to the script before the final color coat and then the paint is cleaned from it later.

 

Steve

Yep,,,that's how I do it. 👍

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On 12/28/2018 at 12:15 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Easier than you may think.

The foil is applied to the script before the final color coat and then the paint is cleaned from it later.

 

Steve

It works amazingly well, and isn't really difficult to do. 

Revell68VetteHT27.jpg.b70a0a4dd7d49436dea5baa81f4cbc69.jpg

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Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow.

 

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1 hour ago, Michael jones said:

Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow.

 

I painted with a coat of black primer, several coats of the Testor lacquer, and several coats of clear. To expose the foil, I wet-sanded with #1000 or #1500 paper until I got down to the black primer on the raised areas, then polished as normal with Wright's Silver Cream which took the black primer off as it smoothed out the paint. Worked fabulously, and I'll definitely be doing it again. 

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6 hours ago, Michael jones said:

Looks cool. How do you clean off the paint without damaging the foil? Thanks. On another note - as far as I know there is still no really good clear for Molotow. I tried 2k clear and when wet it stayed good, but once it dried, it wrecked the molotow.

 

If you wait to apply the foil until right before your final coat or 2 of color, you can clean it easily with a tiny bit of lacquer thinner on a conical swab or a sharpened tooth pick.

The thinner will not damage the foil.

I have done it the same way as snake, but be aware that if you polish too much, you can polish through the foil.

 

You can get lots of nice affects with this technique.

You can use paint & thinner to add color to your badges and emblems as well.

I use this technique before clear and then just clear coat over them.

 

Steve

 

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2v2EetUVSxwUbWP.jpg

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I have done it the same way as snake, but be aware that if you polish too much, you can polish through the foil.

Steve

I should have mentioned that I used cheap kitchen foil, which is thicker than the BMF Steve uses and will stand up to more polishing. 

One more trick: Larger emblems, such as the crossed flags front and rear on that '68 Corvette I showed above, can have their foil covered with a small drop of Elmer's glue before priming and painting. Just leave this in place until polishing is complete, then pop it right off. It might actually come off on its own during the polishing process, especially near the end. B)

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Great info guys thanks.

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