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Just a couple of shots of what you can do with a little foil and paint with badges & scripts.

I used a little black lacquer primer & some Duplicolor paint sprayed into a cup and brushed on.

You can clean up the edges with lacquer thinner & a tooth pick just like you would with the "foil under paint" technique.

Using lacquer for these details ensures no issues when I shoot Duplicolor clear lacquer over the top of them.

 

 

Steve

 

2v2EetUkhxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EetUVSxwUbWP.jpg

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3 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Just a couple of shots of what you can do with a little foil and paint with badges & scripts.

I used a little black lacquer primer & some Duplicolor paint sprayed into a cup and brushed on.

You can clean up the edges with lacquer thinner & a tooth pick just like you would with the "foil under paint" technique.

Using lacquer for these details ensures no issues when I shoot Duplicolor clear lacquer over the top of them.

2v2EetUVSxwUbWP.jpg

The side/trunk emblems look great...are you going to do the same with the FORD trunk script?

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40 minutes ago, BigTallDad said:

The side/trunk emblems look great...are you going to do the same with the FORD trunk script?

The "FORD" lettering on the trunk would have the paint color showing through the voids in the letters, as it does.

It's a little hard to see with the paint being the color that it is, but it's there.

I may try to dab a little bit of darker color into those voids, or possibly just a little more body color to make them a little more pronounced.

 

 

Steve

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2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Very nice! Your skill with BMF both awes and eludes me. I'd have done those with the foil-under-paint technique, as I'm more comfortable with that. 

I did the front quarter badges, the door locks and the trunk and hood scripts with the foil under paint technique.

The trunk badge and center of the side trim was done after paint but before clear, just to give me a crisper detail to deal with, with the painting.

The rest will be foiled after clear coats.

I guess you could say I use a three tiered approach on some projects. :)

 

Steve

 

2v2EetK5GxwUbWP.jpg

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4 hours ago, Can-Con said:

Definitely the best way to go if the scripts and emblems stand out enough from the body.

 

3 hours ago, bbowser said:

That's the trick.  A lot of bodies have the scripts so faint that even a couple coats of paint obliterate them.

 It sure makes it a lot easier!

But you might be surprised what can be done, even with faint badges and scripts.

 

They don't get a lot more faint than the trunk badge on the AMT '61 Buick annual.

 

Steve

 

2v2EvS9dgxwUbWP.jpg

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I also dry brushed the emblems on this Fairlane. I masked it off as close as I can with Tamiya tape, then dry brushed some Chrome Silver enamel on. It’s not easy to see, with the light blue, but it looks pretty good. I want to try it on a darker color car. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/23/2019 at 5:21 AM, Tommy124 said:

Hi guys, 

I have a question regarding the "foil under paint" technique. Do you apply the BMF onto the paint (basecoat) or onto the primer already? The way I see it, there are pros and cons either way. 

Personally, I prefer to apply it to the paint, usually just prior to the final coat or 2 of color.

I figure, the less paint to clean off of the scripts, the better.

 

Steve

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7 hours ago, Danger said:

Another question regarding this technique, how close do you trim the BMF around the emblem? Is each letter separately foiled and trimmed square or around the contours of each letter? 

Danger

I trim the foil as close to the script, letter or emblem as possible.

The reasoning behind this is that if you leave too much foil around or between the letters it can sometimes be seen after finishing.

 

Steve

 

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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