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Anyone ever used glass stain on chrome tail lights?


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I'm building the AMT '65 Galaxie, which was initially issued with clear red tail lights.  At some point those went away, and I haven't been able to find them on ebay or Modelhaus over the last couple years.  

I'm considering trying to replicate the red lenses with glass stain, as it's translucent, but since I don't know anything about brands/quality etc, I'd like to see some pics if you've done this.  

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My one attempt at detailing with Tamiya acrylic paint was a disaster.  I was used to the way enamels can be "worked" with a brush, while the Tamiya paint was more or less a one-pass proposition.  Given what I've got to work around, 

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Bob's answer looks like it may be the best way to go.  

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10 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Are lenses clear or is the entire piece plated? If so, get red Sharpie Twin Tip and use the ultra-fine tip in the corners/edges, fine tip to fill out the rest.

I've done that. I've also had amazing results with Testor Clear Red Acryl. Recently I "rescued" a Revell '68 Dart that was missing two of its four red taillights. I was originally going to make the two missing ones, and then got lazy and popped out the two I had and replaced them all with about four coats of the Clear Red Acryl. You wouldn't notice it if I didn't tell you. 

68Dart30.jpg.914c5759ead50eeedfaa4361481f8819.jpg

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35 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Are lenses clear or is the entire piece plated? If so, get red Sharpie Twin Tip and use the ultra-fine tip in the corners/edges, fine tip to fill out the rest.

The entire piece is plated.  Thanks for being specific on the Sharpie recommendation.  

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This is Model Master Stop Light Red Metallic on a slice of white styrene rod. I hollowed it out slightly and put a heavy droplet of paint in it.  I think it would look great over top of chrome.

IMG_3428.JPG

Edited by NOBLNG
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The Tamiya transparent acrylic paints can be thinned with 90% Isopropyl alcohol to extend their drying time.

Alcald II makes transparent colors too. But the paint is very thin (designed for airbrushing) and hot (acetone-based). But since the piece is metalized, it might not attack plastic. 

 

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