My parent's 1960 VW Beetle

[89AKurt]

Officially starting this project today (Jan. 14).  Been planning to build this anyway, but the GSL Common Kit is Tamiya's excellent kit of the 1966 Beetle, so that has lit the fire under me.

Other than the typical masking to airbrush several colors challenge, the ski rack and back-dating some details is going to be fun. I'm also going to weather it, with the cool ice.  Another first for me, will be using Splash paint.

I got the Best Model Car Parts 1957 Beetle conversion last year, but the rules state no resin bodies, so that will be for their first Bug.  But I can use the engine lid and wheels.  Early VW wheels have no slots, the Hasegawa Bus wheels are also slotted, but I can use the hubcaps and skinny tires.  There is another detail that has haunted me, when I get the package, will comment then.

An interesting detail is the mirror location, the primary picture is on the dash, but other pictures are the normal location.  Only one exterior mirror, which will be the right one located on the left side.  The front turn signals are too big, considering making out of clear sprue.  The taillights need to be smaller, might make out of red sprue.  It looks like the steering wheel needs to be modified to not be deep dish.  I just learned the windows were increased in size after 1960, but that will guarantee doom, just opening the vent window should be enough to distract the rivet counters.

Now I'm committed (for a mental institution?). 
 

Primary reference picture.

[250 Testa Rossa]

Very cool!

 

[James2]

Very cool subject and homage to your parents, I'll be watching.

But please reconsider the ice, IMO it would take away from the beauty of the car.

[r60man]

I have built that kit. It is excellent. That blue is a really nice color. I painted my 1:1 bug powder blue, then when it rusted some more I painted the bottom a royal blue, nice two tone scheme. 

[Foxer]

This is how car modeling in meant to be! I've done my '54 and wife's '68 Beetles with my '69 still in the mix and my Dad's '56 Kombi needing a repaint... It's fun getting all the details right.  Some links to inspire you .. I'll be watching!  ))

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, r60man said:

I have built that kit. It is excellent. [...]

Oh good, I needed to ask where the two tiny round parts, C4, go.  I can't find in the instructions!

4 hours ago, James2 said:

[...]  But please reconsider the ice, IMO it would take away from the beauty of the car.

That's the primary reason I'm doing it, literally frozen in time.  IMHO a model looks more realistic when weathering is done.

3 hours ago, Foxer said:

This is how car modeling in meant to be! [...]  Some links to inspire you .. I'll be watching!  ))

Very good, thanks for the links!

[Oldmopars]

I don't know how set you are n making it accurate, but one thing to keep in mind is that the size of the side and rear glass changed in 1965. All the glass got bigger. This effected the amount of metal between the glass and the drip rail. It also effected the front and rear windows. If you look at the pictures below, you will see the difference in the size of the windows and the shape of the sheet metal above the front glass. It does not curve down, but goes straight out. I wanted to show you so you would know. I am a huge VW nut, owned over 30, mostly Beetles. When I see a VW going down the road, this is one of the ways I can figure out what year it is. So, this kind of thing is important to me. However, if this is just a fun build, and that is great, press on.

Carefully compare the size and shape of the windows.

 

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

I don't know how set you are n making it accurate, but one thing to keep in mind is that the size of the side and rear glass changed in 1965. All the glass got bigger. This effected the amount of metal between the glass and the drip rail. It also effected the front and rear windows. If you look at the pictures below, you will see the difference in the size of the windows and the shape of the sheet metal above the front glass. It does not curve down, but goes straight out. I wanted to show you so you would know. I am a huge VW nut, owned over 30, mostly Beetles. When I see a VW going down the road, this is one of the ways I can figure out what year it is. So, this kind of thing is important to me. However, if this is just a fun build, and that is great, press on.

Carefully compare the size and shape of the windows. [...]

Appreciate you explaining what to look for.  According to the 'Scribd' blog, windshield area increased 11% and slightly curved, door window 6%, rear side windows 17.5%, and rear window 19.5%.  If I was to do that, it would require redoing every piece of glass with trim.  That's the sort of OCD that has put too many of my projects back in the box, for decades.  For the casual observer, the rear window would be most noticeable, then the windshield.  Reducing the glass size would be easier than increasing, I can envision how to do the trim with solid plastic strip, which leads to needing to paint/chrome the inside too.  No operable rear window, that's good.  Now I see the vent wing divider is sloped on the newer model.  And after all that work, would feel obligated to get it to someone who could make resin copies.

Then I would have to make a fabric headliner.    Oh yea, should the door lock slot be vertical or horizontal?

I'm happy to get started on painting.

Evaluated the mold lines on the body, really had to look for them!  Always amazed at Tamiya quality.
Drew the rack and a ski to scale.  Thinking about steam bending real wood for the skis, which would require making a Corian form.
 

Edited January 16, 2019 by 89AKurt

[r60man]

21 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Oh good, I needed to ask where the two tiny round parts, C4, go.  I can't find in the instructions!

That's the primary reason I'm doing it, literally frozen in time.  IMHO a model looks more realistic when weathering is done.

Very good, thanks for the links!

I typically save all the instructions from past builds for just this purpose. Let me look through my stash and see if I have them, if so I will scan them in for you.

[89AKurt]

1 hour ago, r60man said:

I typically save all the instructions from past builds for just this purpose. Let me look through my stash and see if I have them, if so I will scan them in for you.

I have the instructions!  I just have not seen these two tiny parts anywhere, all I need is which step shows where they go.

Since you built this before, need to ask about how the engine deck lid operates.  I would like to add a magnet, and add a steel plate to the hinge, so it stays up when opened.  But it appears there is no way to figure it out until final assembly.  Is there any room in there, and does the hinge barely miss the shroud or other engine parts as it is?  I'm even thinking about adding a spring to the front boot lid; does it actually pivot on the hinge parts, or does it just rattle around sort-of fit with a lot of slop so it clears the body?

I'm also thinking of the engine pulley, the part looks really nice, but looking at this engine picture they are plain round.  I'm going to look at the Hasegawa Kubelwagen kit to see what it looks like, can copy if "correct".

[89AKurt]

14 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

[...] I am a huge VW nut, owned over 30, mostly Beetles. [...]

I want to pick your brain.  On Facebook someone also owned a few, said the 1300 was unique to '66.  Is there a huge difference in how the engine looks?   I'm already primed to change the pulley.  I also noticed there is insulation behind the engine, the kit has nice ribbed metal, but there is the part gap which would be nicely hidden with a piece of cigarette package foil painted flat black.  I see a wire that goes through the firewall, does it go to the battery, which the kit does not have?

[Oldmopars]

Everything after the 36HP looked the same as far as the block. The heads changed when they went to the Dual Port heads on the 1600, the 1600 also got an Alternator and in the 70's Fuel Injection. The easy way to ID a 36hp engine is that the Generator stand is molded as part of the block. After that it is a separate part bolted on with 4 bolts. You will also note the the 36hp Fan shroud is different, it is more round, the later ones had a flat spot in the center at the top. 

Yes, the 1300 was unique to 1966. However, in a 1:24/25 scale, it is impossible to tell the difference from any 1200-1600 single port. All engine1200cc and up, starting in 1960 had the removable  Gen/Alt pedestal. As for the other bolt on parts, they changed so much you would have to be an expert to know what belongs on each year. Add to the confusion, what was available in the USA was different than what they got in Europe. In Europe you could get a 1300cc all the way to the end, but in the USA it was 1966 only. Throw in the 50 other countries and odd specs for each and it become more difficult.

All this to say, the 1966 engine will look just fine and be "Correct" for your 1960 Beetle.

[Samuel S]

WOW! Just noticed that color! Seemed familiar  I can't wait to see the color!

[R.D.F.]

20 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

  I see a wire that goes through the firewall, does it go to the battery, which the kit does not have?

Here is a wiring diagram. Large red wire from generator goes to large positive starter post. Positive battery cable also goes to the same place.

 

[r60man]

The battery was under the back seat. Caused me some issues when I had a couple of 200 pounders in the back. Seat started to heat up and I had to remind them to "roll the cheek a bit" to get it off the battery. The seat spring were making contact. Yikes!

[R.D.F.]

 My friend's 57 had the battery never tied down. The thing slid forward and the positive post connected to the front seat brace. That was fun.

Edited January 17, 2019 by R.D.F.

[89AKurt]

23 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

[...]  Yes, the 1300 was unique to 1966. However, in a 1:24/25 scale, it is impossible to tell the difference from any 1200-1600 single port. [...] Add to the confusion, what was available in the USA was different than what they got in Europe. In Europe you could get a 1300cc all the way to the end, but in the USA it was 1966 only. Throw in the 50 other countries and odd specs for each and it become more difficult.

All this to say, the 1966 engine will look just fine and be "Correct" for your 1960 Beetle.

Good to know!  How many millions were made?  For example, I looked at the Hasegawa Kubelwagen, the pulley has 3 "holes", so it would not match the pictures I'm looking at, so not worth the effort.

6 hours ago, Samuel S said:

WOW! Just noticed that color! Seemed familiar  I can't wait to see the color!

I know right?

3 hours ago, R.D.F. said:

Here is a wiring diagram. Large red wire from generator goes to large positive starter post. Positive battery cable also goes to the same place.

 

Thank you very much!  This helps with the plug wires too.

1 hour ago, r60man said:

The battery was under the back seat. [...] Yikes!

 

38 minutes ago, R.D.F. said:

 [...] That was fun.

Hilarious stories!   Thanks for the information.  My wife's dad had a 2000 Cadillac, it's battery was under the back seat too, when it needed to be replaced, I avoided doing it because there is a box and vent, the dealer said it took two hours to accomplish the task.

Baby step last night, sprayed the Testors flat aluminum.

[r60man]

There was a little bracket holding the battery, but that was it. Nothing covering the top either. Point was it was designed for little people in the back not adults.

[R.D.F.]

1 hour ago, r60man said:

There was a little bracket holding the battery, but that was it. Nothing covering the top either. Point was it was designed for little people in the back not adults.

Or no people at all, lol.

Could tell you how we carrier a Corvair engine in the back seat but that's a different story.

[Dann Tier]

This is off to a GREAT start!!…..looks like my kind of craziness, bud!!!

[thatz4u]

On 1/17/2019 at 9:33 AM, r60man said:

The battery was under the back seat. Caused me some issues when I had a couple of 200 pounders in the back. Seat started to heat up and I had to remind them to "roll the cheek a bit" to get it off the battery. The seat spring were making contact. Yikes!

had the same problem in my Beetle, went to a tire shop & got a truck inner tube & snip, snip, covered the top & side of the battery...no more problem...

[Italianhorses]

Cool project. Wonderful period photos!

Good luck!

[89AKurt]

13 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

This is off to a GREAT start!!…..looks like my kind of craziness, bud!!!

Thank you!  It's tame crazy, at least up to this point.

2 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

Cool project. Wonderful period photos!

Good luck!

Thank you!  My dad took many pictures, this is just a few.

[89AKurt]

Taking baby steps so far.  Still amazed at how well it's engineered, fit is perfect.

My very first use of Splash paint!  I sprayed Testors primer first.  Going to need advice on gloss coat, *might* try Future.

Last of the engine parts painted.  I started with semi-gloss black, then mixed in flat white to get the dark & light grey.  Can you tell I hate brush painting?

Long block engine installed.  Figuring out the exhaust was tricky, the drawing was misleading.

First detail part added, so now it's not Box Stock.  LOL

First part to be modified, to backdate to 1960, the steering wheel was not "deep dish".  Used a Tamiya photo-etch saw.

Glued back together after careful cutting.   Obviously will need file/sanding.

[MrObsessive]

I love how this is coming together and with a Tamiya, these kits are notorious for simply 'falling together'! That's how well engineered they are.

As far as a gloss coat, you might want to check out Tamiya's X-22 acrylic clear. While Future is good for some things, IMO it's not all that great as a clear. Airbrushing it is tricky at best and then you might have the issue with it pooling and running in spots. Tamiya's clear acrylics while they can take a bit to dry (dehydrator works wonders) are rock hard when it's fully cured.

At least that's been my experience.