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Light grey lacquer primer.


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3 hours ago, 935k3 said:

The Color Place so called primer is a grey enamel not real sandable primer. It tears and does not feather well

Hasn't been my experience with it. It's sanded and feathered just fine for me. It IS thin; it's not a high-build primer so is not good if you're trying to fill scratches and so forth. 

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Well I don't have as much experience as the other builders who have replied, however I've found the Alclad Grey Micro-Filler Primer pretty awesome.

I do thin it a little, say 20% thinner to 80% primer.  The thinners I use are either Tamiya Lacquer Thinner or Mr. Leveling Thinner.

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I use Dupli-color   Gray Sandable Primer # 1699       Dupli-colorSandable Gray Hot Rod primer #1692      or my go to primer  Dupli-color  White Sandable primer # 1689

Depends on what top coat color I'm Painting as to what color primer I use.

 

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5 minutes ago, Cornpatch said:

I use Dupli-color   Gray Sandable Primer # 1699       Dupli-colorSandable Gray Hot Rod primer #1692      or my go to primer  Dupli-color  White Sandable primer # 1689

Depends on what top coat color I'm Painting as to what color primer I use.

 

I have all those too.....I like them all......along with the black and semi-gloss black

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This has been mentioned before, but I ignored the advice and found out for myself (what’s the saying, idiots learn from their own mistakes, wise people from other’s..)

Duplicolor Sandable primer, my go to for many years, is too hot for new Revell and Hasegawa models (probably others, all I’ve, uh, tested) I had some very funky outcomes recently on both brands with different cans of Duplicolor Sandable primer. Lots of etching (I guess?) on unnoticeable seems - like very faint swirls in he plastic and odd color changing, plastic changing things. 

I just bought 4 cans of Tamiya...

Edited by Erik Smith
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Enamel paint used different chemistry than lacquer. Is there such a thing as "enamel-based" primer?  I'm not  talking about just some flat gray paint being used as primer, but a real primer designed to be a primer.  I never heard of an enamel-based primer.

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Tamiya or Mr Surfacer are very reliable great primers but yes expensive. I tried Plasticote T235, and found it needs thinning if applied via airbrush or you get spider webs, but is ok straight from the can.
I think a good compromise for cost is to use the Tamiya or Mr Surfacer primers for body panels, but use the Plasticote for interiors and other underbody parts where the finish is not so important.

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On 2/6/2019 at 5:15 PM, GMCMAN52 said:

I've been using PlastiKote T-235 light gray for more years than I could remember, They also have white and black primer

I second the use of Plastikote T-235 primer. Dries quickly, feather edges well and plays nice with paints I put over it. Of course, I'm a BIG believer in sealing all bodywork before putting on any color coats and with very few exceptions, I never paint the body until ALL is built up first and test fitted. A little tough to find Plastikote here now, but I've found it on eBay.

9 minutes ago, Michael jones said:

I tried Plasticote T235, and found it needs thinning if applied via airbrush or you get spider webs, but is ok straight from the can.

I've never had that trouble as I've decanted Plastikote straight from the can into the airbrush jar. Maybe a different formula for those of us in the US as opposed to Australia? Interesting..............

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47 minutes ago, Michael jones said:

Location New Zealand BTW not Australia ;)

:lol: I've got Australia on my mind for whatever reason.

I have to think besides the climate and such, you folks probably have different regs than we do. I don't know however if yours are tougher or the reverse when it comes to paints and such.

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