Swamp_thngSFB Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Does anyone out there build their own tube frames/roll cages for non promod cars? I’d like to give it a try and would like to see some photos for reference/encouragement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) Simple Roll Hoop: More Involved - Full Cage: Most Complex: Edited February 12, 2019 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 10 minutes ago, afx said: Simple:More involved:Most difficult: I imagine you use solid round styrene, likely 0.100" diameter? How do you get the nice radius bends? Do you heat it with something like a butane lighter or heat gun and wrap it around a piece of rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) 18 minutes ago, NOBLNG said: I imagine you use solid round styrene, likely 0.100" diameter? How do you get the nice radius bends? Do you heat it with something like a butane lighter or heat gun and wrap it around a piece of rod? I typically use .060" which scales out to 1.5" which seems correct for most race cars series. I bend the solid rod with my fingers or with round needle nose pliers then set the shape by heating it over a candle. I dissolve bits of styrene in liquid cement and use it like weld at the unions. Clean everything up with small files. Edited February 12, 2019 by afx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Bojaciuk Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 I'd also encourage you to go to S&W Race Cars website. They have lots of cage diagrams as well as back halfs. It will also give you an idea about suspensions and where things mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R. Thorne Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Another possibility is the plastruct 90102 butyrate coated wire which I am going to try on my next one. If not, the candle is your best friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 I can endorse afx's suggestions, though I work a little differently. I prefer to wrap bends around something, tape in place, and dip in boiling water (5-10 seconds) to temper them. For weld fillets, I prefer to use Loctite gel CA. Careful measuring and cutting is essential to getting a good looking tubular structure, as is "fish-mouthing" the ends of round-section rod for maximum joint strength with minimum fillet reinforcement. George Bojaciuk's suggestion, looking at lots of images of race car structures, is also very good. Understanding load paths and why things are placed as they are helps to make a convincing model that's technically correct. Planning well ahead of cutting is also recommended. I have tried the plastic-coated wire mentioned by R.Thorne, and though it does hold its shape after bending, I was never really satisfied with other aspects of its performance. This isn't exactly a cage, but a more a stiffening structure built over factory frame rails in the pre-cage days, and also supports a one-piece fiberglass pre-funnycar body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64SS350 Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 I have used the styrene from the guy on eBay, which was suggested by someone else on here first, because it keeps shape after bending. Even used to make the headers shown in pic. I use a wire bender from my slot car scratch building tools. No heat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impalow Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Another option for clean bends without heat is this styrene rod off eBay.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/STYRENE-ROUND-ROD-120-PIECE-ASSORTMENT-LOT-6-SIZES-PIPE/122094423448?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37570%26meid%3D2be1c9a6a5a74c38acfdf6022ada2dc9%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D111889933610 I stumbled on this on accident, it bends and holds its shape without heat.. The only downfall is, it doesn't glue well with normal styrene glue (I only use CA on it), and sometimes the pieces are not uniform in diameter from end to end. I have purchased this 120 piece assortment, and recently purchased just 120 pieces of the .080 in a custom auction from him. The diameter thing is a bit of a bummer, but once you are aware of it, you can pick and choose pieces so its not much of an issue. I am a really big fan of this stuff, I have never had much luck using heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swamp_thngSFB Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 Wow! Thanks everyone! I didn’t expect that much of a reply! Looks like a LOT more trial and error is in my near future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Invest in some nice small files so you can properly fit the pieces together. I recently bought a set of curved files, and although not necessary for cages, I don't know how I got along without them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Plastruct bends better without breaking than Evergreen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatboy Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I have used "Super Styrene" (by Raboesch?). It bends and stays bent without heat. I got it from a place in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatboy Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 "Cornwall Model Boats". "Super Styrene" rod. The largest diam. they offer is 4.5mm. It is not expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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