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What else to do with ZZ Top Monogram 33 Fords??


Jantrix

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The ZZ Top '33 Ford kit keeps calling to me from the hobby shop shelf, and I'm thinking that next time it does so, it's going home with me.

I'd really like to see what others have done with it, aside from a ZZ Top Eliminator coupe. It's a little challenging, being 1/24 but I think it's very do-able.

Edited by Jantrix
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I think Rob meant the Monogram ZZ Top kit :huh: I got the custom parts from the original kit off ebay and have had the idea to use them to make the Street Roadster in the top right pic here,  but using the dropped axle from the ZZ Top kit.  Complete instructions here: https://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/monogram-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1931-1940/monogram-1934-ford-/

7copy-vi

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I have one I've been playing with off and on for years. Like you, I don't particularly want to do the ZZ car. 

So I'm un-'80s-ing it. I filled the vents in the hood sides, but the putty warped the plastic, so I'll either make new ones out of sheet styrene or just leave them off. I'll be changing out the wheels, possibly for the mags from the Mongram '70 GTX. And I'm painting it Something Else. I started painting it Testor Mythic Maroon, a nice easy color, but have decided that it's too close to ZZ Red so will probably repaint it with their Root Beer metalflake. And that's pretty much it. 

I should get back on that thing and drag it across the finish line. Maybe I'll do it if we have a Round 3 of the Great BOYD Gitter Done Build. 

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While the kit can have its challenges, there are some things you can do with this kit. Below are a couple of ideas I had, and am actually started building the roadster over 20 years ago. It is rather easy to do, if you have an AMT 36 Ford kit. The separate top on the ZZ top kit can easily be swapped with the roadster cowl piece as it is the same size and needs very little modifications. Now, getting the Fiero Turbo, intercooled V6 in  the back is another story (hence why it has been stalled for 20 years.). The other one is based of the same style as Tom shows above. There was a time when those were common. I have another rendering done by someone that I had tried to start as a club build (where each club member builds a part of the kit), but it failed miserably and I have never seen the kit since.

 

You should build it in a style that you like. it is very modifiable and I would like to see something done with it no one else has done.

 

Mike

34midsmall.jpg

Sporttruck.jpg

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Using the body shell, top and frame rails from the sister Thom Taylor '34 Cabriolet kit (which is basically the same except for the cabriolet windshield section, top and wheels)...

I built this:

IMG_1624-vi.jpg

Just like any other kit, your imagination is the limit!

B)

Edited by Dennis Lacy
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On 3/2/2019 at 5:48 PM, Dennis Lacy said:

Using the body shell, top and frame rails from the sister Thom Taylor '34 Cabriolet kit (which is basically the same except for the cabriolet windshield section, top and wheels)...

I built this:

IMG_1624-vi.jpg

Just like any other kit, your imagination is the limit!

B)

Nice build Dennis, where did you get the wheels and tires from?

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The 34 kits we have in 1/24 and 1/25 are decent, but each has issues. The best out of the batch is the Monogram 34(which the ZZ top can is based on), but it's 1/24 which is a turn off for many.

This brings me to my point. I know I've been saying it for years, and I'm not the only one. But I wish someone would tool up an all new 33/34 kit series, along the lines of the revell 32 and Model A series. Revell was the prime candidate up until recently(with their plans for new tooling for North American-centric subjects still being unknown)

I think I'm finally going to have to cut up one of the Revell snappers to quench my 1/25 34 Ford fix. 

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I have started Revell Eliminator and engine will be 392 blown hemi with A727 and Dana 60.

Actually Revell has cheated us. Real Eliminator has Chevy SB 350 + TH350 but kit has Pontiac V8. Transmission looks like an old flathead manual tranny. There is no timing cover either but only pulleys and belt straight put to the block. No shock absorbers or brake master cylinder. Drive shaft and rear end are old torque tube design not Ford 9" + open drive shaft. Rear suspension is correct transverse leaf spring.

Kit has a lot of potential but box stock model is a bit too simple.

 
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18 hours ago, Sportabout said:

I have started Revell Eliminator and engine will be 392 blown hemi with A727 and Dana 60.

Kit has a lot of potential but box stock model is a bit too simple.

 

I quite agree. I'd like to see how the 392 looks in the model. Supposedly it's 1/24 but I'd be interested in how it measures out.

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23 hours ago, Sportabout said:

I have started Revell Eliminator and engine will be 392 blown hemi with A727 and Dana 60.

Actually Revell has cheated us. Real Eliminator has Chevy SB 350 + TH350 but kit has Pontiac V8. Transmission looks like an old flathead manual tranny. There is no timing cover either but only pulleys and belt straight put to the block. No shock absorbers or brake master cylinder. Drive shaft and rear end are old torque tube design not Ford 9" + open drive shaft. Rear suspension is correct transverse leaf spring.

Kit has a lot of potential but box stock model is a bit too simple.

 

They definitely cut some corners bringing this one to market, but that was about 35 years ago. The reason you're noting some inaccurate parts for the ZZ car is that this kit was based on this tooling from the 60's. So they updated some things to get the look, but didn't make it 100%. One of my future projects is to build and accurate version of the ZZ car.

Image result for monogram 34 ford

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Use the wheels and other parts from the Revell '40 Ford, make some sheet styrene fender skirts, and turn it into an early custom?

SoCal33Convertible1-vi.jpg

P3060039-vi.jpg

 

The Revell 1948 Ford, with all those nice period custom parts, is listed at 1/25, but the parts are interchangeable to the 1940 Ford, which, if you actually measure it, scales out to 1/24.   Don't worry too much about what the number on the box says.

Edited by Richard Bartrop
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