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Oak Barrels Whiskey Club


QbanFam

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Ok, I’m having second thoughts on the sign. It was pointed out by a member that the sign looks out of scale. After looking closer I believe it does look somewhat out of scale. I don’t know if it’s the thickness of the wood or just the size in general. Instead, I might just cut a piece of aluminum from a Coca Cola can, flatten it, prepare and glue a decal with the name on it. The aluminum is thinner and might be a better fit. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

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I don't think it is so much the size of the sign, Yordan..... my feeling is that the problem might be the font. Somehow I think the lettering should be a different type of font. You could try different lettering styles in Microsoft Word or similar, by inserting the same words into the same size sign? Then if you find one that works, you can burn it into the real sign with the soldering iron.

David

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1 hour ago, Anglia105E said:

I don't think it is so much the size of the sign, Yordan..... my feeling is that the problem might be the font. Somehow I think the lettering should be a different type of font. You could try different lettering styles in Microsoft Word or similar, by inserting the same words into the same size sign? Then if you find one that works, you can burn it into the real sign with the soldering iron.

David

Great idea. I will give it a try. As a matter of fact, I just got a photoshop software installed in my computer.

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I haven’t posted new updates because I’m waiting on some products to arrive. I ordered some miniature leaves of different variety. I’m hoping these leaves will be in the right scale for me. Meanwhile, I decided to create a library of road signs, and other signs. Once I saved a series of these signs, with the measurements in real life, I began to rescale to 1/24. 

Here is the first one I made, with instructions.

Materials used:

1-) Aluminium can of Celsius I had available (You can use any aluminum can).

2-) 800 grit sanding paper.

3-) Matte Clear Sticker Project Paper (The whole sheet is a sticker and is printable. Think of an oversized label).

4-) Aluminium tubing (You can use styrene as well, as paint it).

5-) Any glue that bonds metal (I use LOCTITE Super Glue, in gel for so it won’t drip).

The build:

1-) Cut The Aluminium can, flatten it and clean.

2-) Sand the exterior painted side, carefully in one direction to get the fine grain affect, while trying not to scratch the interior unpainted side (We want that as smooth as possible, since that’s where the sticker/decal will go). The sanding might not be too perfect but it gives a natural look, since scratches might happen during handling in real life.

3-) Print the sticker/decal and glue to a piece of the Aluminium (on the side that was inside of the can). I used the matte clear Sticker Paper because it gives a reflective affect against the aluminum back and it doesn’t leave a white paper edge (See the picture with a piece against the sharpie). If you rather have a white background I would suggest to paint it instead. 

Note: I pre-arranged a series of signs using a word document. Then printed the sheet, cut them and stored for later use.

4-) Cut a piece of tubing, for the post, to length.

5-) Glue sign to the tubing.

6-) Weather, if desired, and post in place.

This is the first sign I make in this fashion. I think I gives a realistic look. I just need to find very small bolts and nuts, or find a way to mimic them.

 

 

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Edited by QbanFam
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Brilliant sign Yordan..... the Avery sheets look really useful and it is a coincidence that you should be using an aluminium drinks can for the material. During this past week I was doing exactly the same thing to make a burner tray for a Mamod steam engine. Your ' No Trespassing ' sign is very convincing and I would never have thought this was the first one that you produced. The flattened and sanded aluminium sheet could be used for all sorts of scratch building, because we tend to think of styrene, balsa, foam board and card as the obvious materials to use for our hobby.

David

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The aluminum cans work well in some instances even if they are somewhat more difficult to work with. I wanted something thin to make the splash shield on my flywheel grinder and I used a piece of can Flattening it seems to be the hardest.

DSC_0207_4.jpg

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2 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Brilliant sign Yordan..... the Avery sheets look really useful and it is a coincidence that you should be using an aluminium drinks can for the material. During this past week I was doing exactly the same thing to make a burner tray for a Mamod steam engine. Your ' No Trespassing ' sign is very convincing and I would never have thought this was the first one that you produced. The flattened and sanded aluminium sheet could be used for all sorts of scratch building, because we tend to think of styrene, balsa, foam board and card as the obvious materials to use for our hobby.

David

Thank you, David. Aluminum cans can certainly be useful in other scratch builds. I’m already thinking of some other uses.

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1 hour ago, landman said:

The aluminum cans work well in some instances even if they are somewhat more difficult to work with. I wanted something thin to make the splash shield on my flywheel grinder and I used a piece of can Flattening it seems to be the hardest.

DSC_0207_4.jpg

Nice work!! Flattening the can is definitely the most difficult, as the Aluminium is very thin and tends to dent if the appropriate pressure is not applied evenly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have taken a few days off but for good reasons. I have given up trying to find pieces to fit my dioramas, so I have decided to get a 3D printer. Here it is. It’s a budget printer but a great one. I have been taking some online tutorials on the matter. I’m super excited. 

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3 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

Getting a 3D printer has got to be one of the most exciting aspects of scale model building...... I am super envious.....

David

It’s going to be a learning curve, but it looks like it’s not too difficult to learn. I thought about getting the resin type 3D printer, which gives better details, but it’s messy and releases toxic gasses. I don’t want that inside my house. This filament type of printer is more than enough for what I want it. As a matter of fact, I found out I can get a wood type and metallic type of filament to print with. That was exciting news for me. 

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On 4/5/2019 at 1:48 PM, Red318 said:

Have you produced anything yet . I'm considering one of these as the price is pretty good and all the reviews seem positive.

Hi David. I have no experience with 3D printing at all. I just figured some things out. I actually found a site with great models you can download and printed this manhole cover and frame. It’s really not complicated at all and the quality is actually good. The resin type gives you better results, finish and details, but too messy and I dont want the fumes in my house. The filament type, like the one I got, requires post-processing (sanding) for better finish. Sometimes the sanding is not really needed it you want the texture. I also downloaded a bunch of molds to make bricks, jersey barriers, Cinder blocks, etc. I think it’s a great tool for modelers.

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Edited by QbanFam
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I’m super excited. After spending hours (not continuous hours) educating myself on 3D printing basics I made my first 3D print. A manhole cover and frame. I actually downloaded the file and resized it to 1/24 scale. It needs some sanding (since it’s a filament type 3D printer) and painting. I actually found out there are filaments infused with metal particles which gives a metallic look (there are a bunch, from bronze to copper to iron, etc.). It’s more expensive, but since I will be using them for small objects, and only selected ones, I will be using it. Here are a few pictures of my first print. I think I might place it there. 

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