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1965 Stingray


NOBLNG

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I have been on a Corvette kick lately.:blink: I picked up an AMT '53 today. I am currently working on a  Revell 1960, an AMT '62 and this 1965 Stingray. This is the first time that I have attempted to pin anything and I must say... It is definitely the way to go! The front bumper only has two tiny factory mounting points and the rear bumper is precariously mounted on a little ridge.:huh: The side mirrors had absolutely no locating points at all. I don't like the blacked out bumpers, so I am going to try to foil them.

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Edited by NOBLNG
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8 hours ago, bisc63 said:

Nice dash detailing! Keep it coming...

Thanks, it made it into the purple pond twice before this. I masked the gauges and the front of the glove box with micro-mask before spraying the black. Then I primed the bare guage faces with Tamiya white primer, then used black panel line accent. Tamiya flat red for the needles and Molotow for the bezels. Dashes always give me trouble. I wish all kits came with guage decals.

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One problem with this kit is that the roof looks a little flat, and can even be "caved in" at the front, across the top of the windshield. Another kit with this notorious fault is Monogram's '66 Chevelle. I just fixed one of these yesterday by boiling some water, pouring some into a little bowl, letting it sit a couple seconds, then dunking the flat part of roof into it for about FOUR seconds and then bending it upwards with my thumbs--about twice as much as I wanted, so it could "rebound" a little and end up where I wanted it to be. It worked great, and my Chevelle body seems to be made of exactly the same black styrene as your Monogram Vette. 

Try to do this in one shot. Repeated heating of the plastic can result in it shrinking, warping, or becoming brittle. You might want to practice on some sprue from the same kit. Also, don't put the plastic into water that is actually boiling--that's too hot. But the water starts cooling as soon as you take it off the heat and pour it into something, and is just about perfect in only a few seconds. 

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5 hours ago, Snake45 said:

 I just fixed one of these yesterday by boiling some water, pouring some into a little bowl, letting it sit a couple seconds, then dunking the flat part of roof into it for about FOUR seconds and then bending it upwards with my thumbs...

Try to do this in one shot. 

Thanks for the tip, but I'm not dunking my thumbs in boiling water! :D I'm OK with the flat roof... I didn't even know it was till   you mentioned it. :o

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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

Thanks for the tip, but I'm not dunking my thumbs in boiling water! :D I'm OK with the flat roof... I didn't even know it was till   you mentioned it. :o

Did I need to spell out that you take the part OUT of the hot (not at that point still boiling) water before you press on it? :unsure::rolleyes:

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Aside from the accusational, somewhat smart arse comment, your Corvette is looking good. Even the roof looks fine from here.

 How do you like using that primer? How did it dry?

How was Sanding?

I've been using Tamiya primer/paint with great results, but cost is high. Would love to find a good replacement.

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1 hour ago, James2 said:

How do you like using that primer? How did it dry?

How was Sanding?

That is not the primer, that is the Vallejo black-red. It came out waay flatter than I expected! That is it on the right hand spoon with Testors Gloss Coat on top. The LH spoon is the burnt red that I was also considering, but I thought it looked too much like primer:rolleyes:. I just gave it a light sanding with #3000... seems to sand OK. I think if I can do a decent job of foiling the bumpers and trim, it will really make the paint pop!

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On ‎04‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 1:29 PM, Snake45 said:

One problem with this kit is that the roof looks a little flat, and can even be "caved in" at the front, across the top of the windshield.

I see what you mean. I heated it slightly with a hair dryer and promptly snapped the vent window divider. I think I moved it slightly so it is barely noticeable. The hot water trick would undoubtedly work better with a more uniform heated area...but I didn't want to mess up the paint!:P

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I haven't seen this kit in a looong time!, to me its looking good sofar!!….1)LOVE your dash!!...another really easy way to do the gauges, is to use freshly sharpened colored pencils....NOT the waxy kind, the professional brands that are more like a graphite/chalk composition -it works great as you "dry-brush/pencil" it in!!  -then add your clearcoat.  2)I agree with James2. Not saying it is true in this case, but most of these types of TV/Movie cars do have some type of mod done to them...maybe the roof was for this car?....at any rate, I don't think it bad anyway...I can see changing it if it was unsightly, but where would all the "Correcting things" end?.....before you know it, you're taking a freaking Micrometer to the body panels, and grinding them to the "Correct" thickness. Keep it fun, but don't go mental over it, bud!...if it looks great....that's all that counts!

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39 minutes ago, Dann Tier said:

Not saying it is true in this case, but most of these types of TV/Movie cars do have some type of mod done to them...maybe the roof was for this car?

Got nothing to do with the movie. It's in the kit--the roof is too flat, and is very often flattened down a bit from packaging. But it's not difficult to fix, and makes a BIG difference in the appearance of the finished model. 

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4 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Got nothing to do with the movie. It's in the kit--the roof is too flat, and is very often flattened down a bit from packaging. But it's not difficult to fix, and makes a BIG difference in the appearance of the finished model. 

Like I said...…"May not be true in this case"......flat...rounded....whatever....artistically it STILL looks GOOD.

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6 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Like I said...…"May not be true in this case"......flat...rounded....whatever....artistically it STILL looks GOOD.

I’m patiently waiting to see that final color! 

And maybe 1 in 10,000 will even ask about the roof, but to each their own. 

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I will take one shot at raising the roof a hair as per Richards suggestion. If it doesn't work the first try, I will live with it as is. Since I already snapped the driver's side, I am first reinforcing the vent windows with some .040 half round. It will not be noticeable after it is painted. The wife didn't like the color, and I must say I am not that impressed either. But... with a coat of Testors transparent red on top it looks much nicer!

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On ‎3‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 10:09 PM, NOBLNG said:

I will take one shot at raising the roof a hair as per Richards suggestion. If it doesn't work the first try, I will live with it as is. Since I already snapped the driver's side, I am first reinforcing the vent windows with some .040 half round. It will not be noticeable after it is painted. The wife didn't like the color, and I must say I am not that impressed either. But... with a coat of Testors transparent red on top it looks much nicer!

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Great repair idea!!, I've also used heavy aluminum foil with super glue, its really thin, and is strong enough.

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Well I did raise the roof a tad, but in the process of handling it I managed to break both door handles that I had carefully hollowed out. so now it is sans door handles. I have re-painted it with a Testors  red. I may try to fab some door handles to glue on later, or maybe not? Pics to follow.

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