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'65 Fury. Back on the Bench.


StevenGuthmiller

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On 5/18/2019 at 12:24 PM, Bucky said:

Great looking wheels!

What method do you use to bend the plastic rod? Would styrene tube work just as well?

I've just been massaging them by hand.

So far it has been working.

I haven't needed to use any heat or anything.

 

I can't see any reason why tube wouldn't work just as well.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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On 5/18/2019 at 3:25 PM, Superbird McMonte said:

I’ve always wanted to build a high detail cross ram 426. Does anyone have a short list of sources? I’m gonna reread the thread.

At the moment, I'm using the Lindberg block from the '64 Belvedere kit with the addition of a set of exhaust manifolds from the AMT '49 Merc Chrysler engine, the Missing Link intake and a set of Fireball Modelworks AFB Carter carbs.

We'll see how it turns out! :D

 

 

Steve

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6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That was my thought Keith.

It would have been a pretty easy "day 2" addition.

 

 

Steve

On 5/17/2019 at 8:57 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

My thoughts on the day 2 concept......The cross-ram did need to be paired with the Max Wedge heads because of the port mismatch and the lack of a heat riser passage in the cross ram intake. However, just after the introduction of the 1964 Race Hemi cars, there were, all of the sudden, hundreds of obsolete Max Wedge powered Super Stockers all over the US. I know this phenomenon well because I was involved a build up/resto of a 1 to 1 Henry J A/Gas car that came by it's Stage III 426 Max Wedge powerplant in-period as a result of this sudden obsolescence. At the time, Chrysler's Inboard Marine facility was doing the assembly and warehousing for the Race Hemi and Max Wedge engines due to the hands on nature of QC involved in engines destined for competition. As you can imagine, there were a number of assembled Max Wedge drag and NASCAR spec engines and components that were already in inventory for racer contingency and for outright sale that were also obsolete for their intended purposes; so, they were liquidated at fire sale prices. I have seen the ads in the late 1964 Hot Rod magazines and indeed, you could order a brand new Max Wedge from Chrysler Marine division probably for what the over the counter price for a 318 poly would cost you. I imagine there were some takers who might have opted to plunk one into his near-new Fury and detune it with an extra set of steel shim head gaskets to drop the compression and slip in a milder Chrysler 300J solid lifter can to tame the beast enough to drive it down the highway

Edited by garagepunk66
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6 hours ago, garagepunk66 said:

My thoughts on the day 2 concept......The cross-ram did need to be paired with the Max Wedge heads because of the port mismatch and the lack of a heat riser passage in the cross ram intake. However, just after the introduction of the 1964 Race Hemi cars, there were, all of the sudden, hundreds of obsolete Max Wedge powered Super Stockers all over the US. I know this phenomenon well because I was involved a build up/resto of a 1 to 1 Henry J A/Gas car that came by it's Stage III 426 Max Wedge powerplant in-period as a result of this sudden obsolescence. At the time, Chrysler's Inboard Marine facility was doing the assembly and warehousing for the Race Hemi and Max Wedge engines due to the hands on nature of QC involved in engines destined for competition. As you can imagine, there were a number of assembled Max Wedge drag and NASCAR spec engines and components that were already in inventory for racer contingency and for outright sale that were also obsolete for their intended purposes; so, they were liquidated at fire sale prices. I have seen the ads in the late 1964 Hot Rod magazines and indeed, you could order a brand new Max Wedge from Chrysler Marine division probably for what the over the counter price for a 318 poly would cost you. I imagine there were some takers who might have opted to plunk one into his near-new Fury and detune it with an extra set of steel shim head gaskets to drop the compression and slip in a milder Chrysler 300J solid lifter can to tame the beast enough to drive it down the highway

That's all of the verification I need! :D

 

 

Steve

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17 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

At the moment, I'm using the Lindberg block from the '64 Belvedere kit with the addition of a set of exhaust manifolds from the AMT '49 Merc Chrysler engine, the Missing Link intake and a set of Fireball Modelworks AFB Carter carbs.

We'll see how it turns out! :D

 

 

Steve

Thanks for the info!

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I think that I'm finally done refining the wheels! :rolleyes:

Now I found a set of chrome center caps shaved from another wheel so I don't have to use the home cast Alclad painted ones!

I'll just need to add some Molotow to the lug nuts and possibly some valve stems.

 

 

Steve

 

 

2v2EDUANSxwUbWP.jpg

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Steven, to get off course, it was good talking to you and your wife, just wished we could have BS"d a little more during the afternoon..Met some others from here but names don't come that easy now with age..Uncle Scott 58 I do remember..Hope your trip home was good because I stayed at my daughters and rained all time there with huge winds..All way to Winnipeg today,Wednesday..Great show and CONGRATULATIONS  on our Club Award..That Ford is out of this world..How you do such builds is an understatement..I hear you used to play with plaster, I might have to hire you to come to Winnipeg and correct my house walls..LOL

 

 

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Although I still greatly appreciate the fact that Dan Carlson, (garagepunk66) was so gracious as to send me a bunch of engine parts for this project, it turns out that the intake, heads, etc, will not work with the Lindberg block.

Apparently, the Lindberg engine is too long making it difficult to decide between sticking with mostly Lindberg parts, or scrapping the whole thing and beginning a search for an entirely different engine.

At this point I have decided that, at least for this project, I'm going to stick with the Lindberg engine to be certain that there will be no need for further modifications to the chassis or other parts that are, for all intensive purposes, finished.

So, I guess I will go back to plan A.

Oh well, I guess the Lindberg intake that I modified previously doesn't look half bad in primer.

 

Thanks again Dan!

I have no doubt that I will be able to use the parts that you provided on a future project.

 

 

Steve

 

2v2EDLRGgxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EDLRnWxwUbWP.jpg

 

 

 

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Finally!!

Some color on the body!

And I have to say after my first time using Scale Finishes base coat lacquer.......it's an absolute joy to work with!!

It lays down perfectly smooth and even with no effort whatsoever!

I will go out on a limb after my first time and say, it's the best paint that I have ever used!!

The color is correct 1965 Plymouth "Medium Turquoise".

It appears a little more blue than what it looked like in the jar, but to be fair, I used a blue base.

There will be one more coat of the turquoise before clear coating which might possibly drag it back a little more on the turquoise side.

Either way, the color is nice and I absolutely loved how well it went on!

Now I can't wait to move on to some of my other up coming projects that will be using some pretty exciting colors!

At least exciting to me! :D

 

 

Steve

 

2v2EDr51CxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EDr5BqxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EDr5USxwUbWP.jpg

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Very significant paint comments from someone with a lot of experience.  Now I have to ask what are the details of how you did it?  Equipment used, weather or environmental conditions like temperature and humidity, thinner used and how much, and finally a description of your basic technique like distance, speed of sweep, heaviness of coat. I suppose I could wait for a link to the video. I suspect there's a lot more to your success than magic paint.

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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Finally!!

Some color on the body!

And I have to say after my first time using Scale Finishes base coat lacquer.......it's an absolute joy to work with!!

It lays down perfectly smooth and even with no effort whatsoever!

I will go out on a limb after my first time and say, it's the best paint that I have ever used!!

The color is correct 1965 Plymouth "Medium Turquoise".

It appears a little more blue than what it looked like in the jar, but to be fair, I used a blue base.

There will be one more coat of the turquoise before clear coating which might possibly drag it back a little more on the turquoise side.

Either way, the color is nice and I absolutely loved how well it went on!

Now I can't wait to move on to some of my other up coming projects that will be using some pretty exciting colors!

At least exciting to me! :D

 

 

Steve

 

2v2EDr51CxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EDr5BqxwUbWP.jpg

2v2EDr5USxwUbWP.jpg

Looking great Steve. Isn’t it nice when things come together so nice? I don’t have an airbrush yet, but, there are some Model Master lacquers that spray so nice right from the can, making it a delight. 

Those muffler clamps you scratch made look great on the exhaust. I noticed you drilled them and I am guessing there are “u” bolts as well? If I try to drill holes that small in such a small piece of styrene,  I always break through one of the sides, even with the smallest pin vise bit. 

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1 hour ago, Brutalform said:

There is kit of this car on eBay right now , and it’s been started, it’s up to $113 with 12 bidders on it, and it still has five days to go yet. 

Yeah, I'm watching that one as I'm curious to see how high it'll go. I can betcha it'll be sky high before it's all said and done as they're hard to come by. I got a very restorable promo a while back as well as a '66, but heaven knows when I'll get to do anything with 'em.

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1 hour ago, Flat32 said:

Very significant paint comments from someone with a lot of experience.  Now I have to ask what are the details of how you did it?  Equipment used, weather or environmental conditions like temperature and humidity, thinner used and how much, and finally a description of your basic technique like distance, speed of sweep, heaviness of coat. I suppose I could wait for a link to the video. I suspect there's a lot more to your success than magic paint.

Hmm, a lot of interesting questions, and I'm not positive that I can answer them, but I'll do my best. ;)

 

Equipment used?........I am currently using a Dewalt 6 gallon pancake compressor for my air, set at about 35-40 PSI, and have been having great luck using a "Mr. Hobby Procon Boy Trigger Type Double Action Air Brush".

That's a mouth full! :D

I picked it up on ebay for about $100.00 and I really like a couple of features.

The trigger makes it especially easy to use.

Most double action air brushes require you to push the button down for air flow and pull it back for paint flow, an action that I was never really able to master successfully.

With the trigger air brush, their is only one action required, pulling the trigger back.

The first half of the pull starts air flow, and the second half paint flow.

Easy peasy!

I also like the fact that it is a fairly heavy flow brush with a wide fan spray nozzle.

 

Weather or environmental conditions?......I rarely pay a lot of attention to these factors.

In my neck of the woods, winters are dry, and in the summer the air conditioning is on, which means I rarely need to consider humidity.

Temperature in my house in generally somewhere in the 70s.

 

Thinner used?........Not a factor either.

These paints are premixed for air brush use and require no thinning.

They can be shot straight from the jar.

Cheap lacquer thinner is sufficient for clean up.

 

Distance?.....Hmmm, I guess I would say that I hold the tip of the brush about 2 to 3 inches from the work.

 

Speed of sweep?......That's a tough one.

Maybe 1 to 2 seconds from one end of a body to the other?

Sorry, it's one of those things that just comes naturally after a while and you don't really pay much attention.

 

Heaviness of coat?......I guess in general I would say that I spray a medium wet coat.

Too light can make the paint grainy, and too heavy can compromise the evenness.

I set my air brush almost wide open for paint flow, but then again, this particular air brush sprays a wide pattern, but not a particular heavy one unless you slow down the speed of the sweep.

 

Video?.....If you're waiting for a video, you will be waiting a while! :D

 

Magic paint?.......probably not, but good paint makes a huge difference, and great paint combined with a good surface is a giant step in the right direction.

 

I hope this information is at least slightly useful. ^_^

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Brutalform said:

Looking great Steve. Isn’t it nice when things come together so nice? I don’t have an airbrush yet, but, there are some Model Master lacquers that spray so nice right from the can, making it a delight. 

Those muffler clamps you scratch made look great on the exhaust. I noticed you drilled them and I am guessing there are “u” bolts as well? If I try to drill holes that small in such a small piece of styrene,  I always break through one of the sides, even with the smallest pin vise bit. 

I have really gravitated towards premixed air brush lacquers over the past few years mainly because of the huge color pallet available.

I hate nothing more than being limited to what's available in a spray can.

With these paints, the sky is the limit for colors and there is much better control in spraying with an air brush once you play with it for a while.

 

The brackets were drilled and "bolt detail" added to the top, but no u-bolts.

I contemplated doing that with wire, but decided that it was a detail that was very unlikely to be seen and not really worth the effort.

I drill narrow parts like this with the smallest bit that I have first, and then cut the part to length after drilling.

It makes handling much easier.

 

 

Steve

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