Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

1975 Duster ProMod- scratchbuilt


Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi!

Thank you for the comments.

Out of curiosity, I checked and saw a few Pro-Mods with radiators, even if Drag Racer suggested otherwise. I suppose some racers have soooo much money invested, they want to extend the lifespan of their engine? I know some racers run solid CNC billet blocks, with no water jackets, but some still favor water cooling, apparently.

CT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Not sure how I missed this one when you first posted it but wow, what a stunning Pro Mod.  Your choice of a modified funnycar body is sheer genius - now I know what to do with some spares I have!  As for the engine detailing, I am in awe of your clean craftsmanship.  Having just finished my Mickey Thompson Mustang build, I know I aimed for that level but your plumbing is still something to aim for.  The whole car, its stance, fit and finish is just breathtaking.  Your trophy was well deserved!

Cheers

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, alan barton said:

Not sure how I missed this one when you first posted it but wow, what a stunning Pro Mod.  Your choice of a modified funnycar body is sheer genius - now I know what to do with some spares I have!  As for the engine detailing, I am in awe of your clean craftsmanship.  Having just finished my Mickey Thompson Mustang build, I know I aimed for that level but your plumbing is still something to aim for.  The whole car, its stance, fit and finish is just breathtaking.  Your trophy was well deserved!

Cheers

Alan

Thank you Alan, much appreciated. 

Regarding the engine detailing, a few infos you might enjoy...

The polished aluminium look was obtained with Alclad chrome, but over WHITE gloss enamel instead of the usual black base most prefer. It gives it a more realistic "milky" aluminium look, instead of actual chrome. The injector hat (and most everything else on the engine) is scratchbuilt. The tripple throat hat was done with leftover sprue sections, three short styrene tubes at the front, and a micro transversal half-round to mimick the butterflies axis shaft. The AN fittings are scratch built out of hexagonal styrene rod, drilled, scored (to mimick the two assembled sections), Alclad chromed & tinted with blue and red Tamya transparent acrylics. They are less refined than after-market real aluminium units, but dare I say, more "satisfying" for my builder's pride! The braided hoses of different sizes were done with soft aluminium wire (Home Depot), straightened and rolled on a hard surface with a medium grade metal file. The file ridges transfer to the soft wire. They are easy to make, cut, bend, and since light, glue easily in place with Testor's Clear Glass glue (to not mar the candy finish on the AN fittings). 

The headers are real chromed steel tubes, from the braid section at Michael's. I just shortened them a bit, and scratchbuilt a 4-hole connector plate to hold them mid-lenght. The ancillary acccessories (throttle cables, return springs,barrel valve, fuel distribution block and upper pulley starter anchor plate are all scratch built, as is the radiator & other surrounding accessories. 

Voilà! If you've got the parts and time... please, go at it yourself, you'll enjoy it!

CT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Claude!

For seeing your work in person I must admit that you are quite a modeler. Super clean and precise build along with amazing color choice on every model.

Can't wait to see you at the new model contest!

By the way I started a new thread for my current build so you are welcome any time!

Happy New Year and the best for you and your familly

Cheers

Francis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Hello Claude!

For seeing your work in person I must admit that you are quite a modeler. Super clean and precise build along with amazing color choice on every model.

Can't wait to see you at the new model contest!

By the way I started a new thread for my current build so you are welcome any time!

Happy New Year and the best for you and your familly

Cheers

Francis

Bonjour Francis!

Thanks for the compliments. From a Master, it's flattering. I will certainly check your thread, I'm certain I will learn a lot! 

Happy new year, and hope to see you at the RAM North-East!

CT

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  The Duster looks amazing!Congrats on the win.  I am working on a Camaro funny car and have a question. What did you use for the cable for the chute , and is it flexible. I would like to remove the body from the frame as you did but don't know what to use. Would you send close-ups of the chute so I can see how you connected the cable.  Happy new year!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nazz said:

  The Duster looks amazing!Congrats on the win.  I am working on a Camaro funny car and have a question. What did you use for the cable for the chute , and is it flexible. I would like to remove the body from the frame as you did but don't know what to use. Would you send close-ups of the chute so I can see how you connected the cable.  Happy new year!

 

Hi Jerry!

The chute activation cable is pure twisted silver beading wire in very small size, that I bought at Michael's, a well known craft store. It is semi-rigid, and therefore keeps its shape once you position it. It also takes any radius bend fairly well. The chute release handle & spring was scratch-built out of Plastruct. It is routed along the roll cage rear support bars, goes tru the floor panel, and emerges to reach the chute mounting plate, that one being fixed to the push-bar. Hence, it does not interfere with body removal. That's the best way to go for me, otherwise removing the body becomes a chore... here are a few pics. Enjoy. 

Good luck with your build, and keep us posted!

CT

 

DSCF3712 (2).JPG

DSCF3724.JPG

DSCF3729.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

WIP,Here’s another attempt at Duster Drag car I’m working on, but not finished, and no where near as nice as yours.However IMO,& No offense, but l do think that maybe you should make the rear wing a little smaller...Other than that, your car is simply wild ???

664EC6D1-F936-4E18-AA03-AE13319C2BB6.jpeg

F4FF158D-856E-4E2B-BD76-9FC083D564DE.jpeg

EEAF0047-EF8E-452C-A63D-FB94FCCD5B26.jpeg

E7EC0C4E-8896-4EA2-8721-B87EAFFC3D58.jpeg

7525335A-449D-46B3-A644-BE4F7D7CFB43.jpeg

6F0ED241-7D0E-4016-AF54-3CC8D01D83C2.jpeg

8573A9EE-4B7A-4149-A9F0-7EEDBB723C30.jpeg

55CD4BCA-F4D3-4BA8-A778-5DF367B50665.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ron!

Thanks for the comments. Your point is well taken.

I must say, however, that I've seen some fairly expensive wings on some regionnal race cars (north-east). Maybe the wings are then simply too heavy, and slow down these cars, therefore stopping their raise to higher "planes" (pun intended)?. Who knows... 

I'm currently finishing a totally scratchbuilt streamlined 32 Ford Bonneville car, and you will be happy to see a slightly more discreet wing of the same design on it. More pix whwn said car is completed (a month or so, I hope!)

CT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...