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some old racing engines


absmiami

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Indycals' shapeways listings include a very nice Cosworth

you can order it in 24th or 25th

script on cam covers is "Cosworth" - so it is designed to be used in Indy cars

but the printed engine corrects several major flaws in the old 24th scale Heller GP Cosworth engines ...

1    the cam cover has the correct scale dimensions - the Heller did not

2   the exhaust ports are located correctly - not so for the Heller

3   the sump is depicted accurately - the Heller?  not so much ...

4   the cyl heads are correctly offset - the Heller heads were symmetrical - oops ...

so it is worth the trouble to modify this engine for use in 24th sc grand prix cars  ...

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the resin castings in the above photos are a repop from the old Heller engine - with all of the mistakes

think its fr one of the old Joker kits ….

for this engine - I'm drilling holes for some after market hardware

each cam cover has about 36 bolts of differing sizes

the Cosworth script if sanded off - to be replaced with FORD script ...

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RB Motion makes a set of hardware for the Ebbro Cosworth engines in 20th scale

I  think the bolts and cap screws are small enough to use in 24th scale - I've ordered a couple of sets

scale hardware can also be used ….

the other engine parts can be modified from the Heller kits - the pumps, filters, fuel injection parts etc

thinking about making a Lotus 79 Chassis to display with this one ….

does it bother anyone else that we've never had properly detailed 24th scale Lotus 72 and 79 kits ??

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

back to the Cooper F III engine briefly ...

I had ordered the RB Motion 20th sc DFV valve cover detail set - which includes some absurdly tiny cap screws for the outer rim of the valve covers...

they are 0.12 across -- with stem size  is about .0010 ….

anyone who orders these things and intends to use them needs professional help ….

which is why I ordered two sets ….

before tackling the DFV engine again I decided to use four of these things on the Cooper Norton cylinder head

- which was sawed apart from the engine fin casting - which I discarded - and drilled/modified for bolts screws and other stuff

the hardware is from RB Motion, Scale Hardware, and other random sources - the .060 MM screws have been sitting inside a small plastic box for years - can't remember who produced them ...

- and brush painted w Floquil steam power black

there's more to add - but this is a start - this part sticks up out of the engine bay - completely exposed - so I am adding as much detail as I can

the small cap screws need special handling - and magnification

installation was done over a black tray - because you WILL drop these things several times

- so when the  cap screws  fall onto a black tray you just tweeze them up and try again ….

- if you don't use a black surface the dropped screws will leave the planet - you will never see them again  ... 

in case you were wondering what to do with those neat black plastic sushi trays that you get with your supermarket sushi -

you can wash them first - but that is optional  …..

 

 

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the tach line runs into the rocker housing in an elbow fitting made from .060 mm tubing soldered to  a slightly smaller nickel rod - finished with files and sanding sticks and sharpie painted black

OK  the  rocker housing is almost done.

in between this housing and the top of the cylinder head are four exposed valve springs

- two on each side - tickling the exposed rocker valves running down into the top of the cyl head

I've always wanted to build an engine with exposed valve springs ….

that's next ….

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love that printed Cord dash ….

the exposed valve springs which sit on top of the "head and Barrel"

- that's what it's called in the parts catalog on line for www.worksracing.co.uk -

made from .009 steel wire  - wound around a 2-56 bolt and painted with a sharpie

the springs are glued to a small clip-like part made from some evergreen with size 84 holes drilled for the stems of the valves

per this same online catalog - the top of the engine - which I called a rocker casting - is more properly called a cam box ... 

not shown in the photos - there will be two more springs perched on the other side of the head and barrel ... 

even though the springs are very small - everything will be a tight fit and need part adjustments when assembled ...

soon - I might actually start to paint some things ...

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Saturday at the simeone museum in philly. Amazing display of rare Ferraris owned by chinetti jr

the bardahl Indy Ferrari 

the lemans winning Ferrari 250 p

a gp Ferrari F2 without the body panels. I think a 212 GP

and several others

saw staff set up the cars for display today 

 wetinthepants  

some photos next week

go!

go!

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello, just wanted to thank you for buying not one but two of my GT40 engines. Especially when you had to pay the higher price due to shipping etc.

You're right about this engine being used widely in racing, you can get a 4-Weber version from Model Builder's Warehouse now and I'm planning for a Holley one.

I'm really sorry for not adding instructions for assembling the headers, it's really a tricky thing but can be done:

 

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Nothing yet on simeone website

but since mistakes on the internet never get corrected -

I think the Ferrari in question is a 166 F2  and not the 212

but the differences are slight   
I’ll post some more pics later this week .....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

whilst pondering the Ferrari I got some paint onto the Norton Cooper engine

flat, dull, and flat ...

the "head and barrel" was painted with alclad fl aluminum and the crank case was painted with Tamiya flat black

then added the bolt detail - mostly RB Motion - sizes .015 and .017

the first picture has a vertical shaft housing that runs from the crank case up to the cam box -

made from 1.2 Mil nickel silver rod with some added detail top and bottom - will replace the  white metal casting that is included in the Deeks kit - it's a very good part - but I modified it and it ended up to be to short for my needs …

once I paint and attach the engine brackets I can attach the cam box and valve springs, and some other parts …..

its finally starting to look like an engine - but one that clearly has an 75 year old design …... 

 

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got the cam box on - with the valves and valve springs sitting on top of the head and barrel.  and the rear engine brace is attached.

The shaft running down to (up to?) crank case is the only polished part on the engine

the spark plug is fr RB Motion, as are the boots for the plug and the distributor

the plug wire dimension is .016 - which is perhaps slightly over-sized -

.013 would have been more precise - but I did not have any yellow .013 plug wire - Detail Master makes them - and I didn't want to stop the build to order the correct size for an engine with just one spark plug !

have to replace a couple of engine bolts that went AWOL ...

 

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the front engine brace is now attached with some .013 nickel rod and RB bolts

and the timing chain cover is glued on to the crank case and the side of the plug distributor - if there is only one plug - is this a "distributor"?

the carb needs an intake trumpet and some fuel wires before it is attached ...

there are at least 2 oil lines running into and out of the crank case - possibly more - based upon photos of the crank case that I glommed from the 'net ...

still figuring that out ...

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