J Flintstone 53 Stude SD Body question

[thatz4u]

Is the quality good? would anyone here trade one? 

[cobraman]

I have used several Flintstones offerings and found them to very good quality.

[69NovaYenko]

I too have possession of a couple of Flintstones offerings. Have on complaints about the quality. However, be aware they are not like the thin light weight castings you get in kits. The bodies are thicker and denser in weight.  Attempted to use a Flintstones hood on a mainstream manufacturer body and found the hood was to thick to sit flush with the kit fenders.

Edited May 30, 2019 by 69NovaYenko

[1930fordpickup]

Al I think I have one here. I would trade it, I have to check though. 

[thatz4u]

7 hours ago, 1930fordpickup said:

Al I think I have one here. I would trade it, I have to check though. 

thanks, Andy, lmk...

[dino246gt]

Here's one of Jimmy's bodies I got and here's how it turned out:

[Mr. Metallic]

Jimmy Flinstone has been around for 20+ years, and his quality has increased quite a bit over that time. Since the beginning, his bodies were priced well below his contemporaries, so there are a lot of them floating out there. His prices are lower because he deals in volume. And prior to about 7-8 years ago, the quality was representative of bodies that were designed to be produced very quickly. Most casting were quite thick, and required work to be able to be used with kit donor chassis and interiors. More recently though his bodies have been much better with regards to thickness and window/hood openings. One thing I have noticed in this time though it a very stubborn release agent that can be present and must be thoroughly dealt with before painting.

So, his bodies are best purchased in person so you can evaluate exactly what you're getting.

Here's an Edsel wagon i built from one of his bodies. This body was almost a drop on, quality wise. 

[Mark]

The Stude panel body is quite good, especially for the price.  As others have said, removal of the mold release agent is top priority.  Do that first thing, especially before any sanding or grinding.

One other thing: often the lower body sides are further apart than the donor body.  They are likely pulled from the mold core before they are fully cured, and "take a set" in that shape.  If that is the case, after cleaning the body, smooth up the inside and lower edge of the rocker panels and fit the body to the donor kit chassis.   The rocker panels can be pulled in and temporarily hot glued to the kit chassis to pull them to the correct formation.  Leave the hot glued assembly for a week or two until the body stays in the right shape.  The hot glue can be peeled and washed off.  Rubber bands can be used too, provided you don't create collateral damage by pulling the roof or fenders out of shape.

Correcting the lower body "spread" will usually fix other problems like poor hood fit.  This is especially true with the '51 Chevy bodies like the sedan delivery.

[misterNNL]

All of the JF stuff is great. He offers a lot of unique vehicles for those just plain bored with the selection of injection molded corporate offerings. The last time I spoke with him in person he told me offers 3,200 different items!

[ChrisBcritter]

I have three of his bodies (Econoline van, '58 Chevy sedan delivery, and '60 Chevy wagon) at the moment; my only issue with them is the very pebbly finish they all have. It'll take a LOT of sanding and priming to get them smooth. His prices are quite reasonable, however.