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Scale-Master

Lola T-70 Mk III

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Wow , every single piece is so meticulously fitted ! 

The pic of the radius rod looked like a pic of the real thing till I noticed the grey primer !

Great thread there's a lesson for everyone reading this ! 

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Mad skills Mark.  Taking an end-mill to the manifold..........well, that had to be interesting to say the least.  Nicely done of course.  Keep sharing the steps / processes you're doing along the way, they're greatly appreciated.   cheers, tim

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I am just seeing this thread for the first time. Your work is jaw dropping. I'll certainly be watching this with interest. 

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I am beyond astonished at what I've been seeing as I started this thread and read through to this point. Every addition and tweak and correction is so plain and logical, based 100% on the thought "this part doesn't look like a real part" and the results are amazing. 

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On 6/25/2020 at 12:25 AM, Eric Macleod said:

I am just seeing this thread for the first time. Your work is jaw dropping. I'll certainly be watching this with interest. 

If in the past you never looked into the "Big Boys" section, you would have missed it.  Now that moderators merged large scale model section into this general WIP section, it exposed it to the general population of the forum.  Personally I preferred to keep "big boys" in a separate section, it is what it is.

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awesome detail !    would love to have a set  of those aluminum  wheel  rings.  i have the Aston  Martin version waiting to be built.

image63.jpg

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Thanks Guys!!

 

Built up the rear suspension rods and ends, and they work with the rest of the moving suspension parts.  Steel rods, cast resin joints made from 3D printed masters I designed and grew and brass pivot points.

SKeorDl.jpg

Ys2Cl8K.jpg

riVPLZO.jpg

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I'm guessing the oval hole in the engine cover is a carry-over from the first issue for the power switch for the motor and lights.  They provide a plug, but it needs to be faired in.

3929CDY.jpg

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Just a big ol' smile on my face of this post.....you nailed those (of course) 100%.   Just 1 question Mark, how strong are the resin joints?  I know you mentioned the brass inserts so they're most for the visual?    The latest pic also shares that nice clean finish to the spoiler.  A a lot of work and attention went into that as well.   cheers, Tim

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Thanks Tim!  The resin joints are about as strong as styrene.  The brass is for strength and will not be visible in the end.

Yes, the rear spoiler was a good amount of work, especially because I dropped it a couple days ago and broke one corner off and had to rebuild it. 

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These are the final masters for the carbs, I grew them from the 3D files I created from scratch.

2BQrK0H.jpg

These are the cast resin tops.  The venturi tubes are stainless steel.  I used a very thin coat of primer then a thin coat of silver to see how they look.  Still more fine tuning to do.

zi51VRF.jpg

These are the cast resin main bodies; same as the tops, more work to do…

3Xuc3bg.jpg

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Thanks Jim!

 

I designed the intake horns in SolidWorks and printed the master, then cast copies in resin.

The one in the foreground is a 3D master.

UTj5clR.jpg

JA8BxOA.jpg

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Out of interest, I notice you often print (grow) a single piece and then resin cast...what’s the benefit in resin casting multiples rather than just 3D printing more of them?  I don’t know enough about 3D printing to know all the pros and cons...

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On 7/2/2019 at 8:05 AM, ibj40 said:

As someone who works exclusively in 1/18 scale diecast, I have to admit that this is the most amazing build I have ever witnessed.  Simply outstanding.

 

 

Hey there, old friend!!!!

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12 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Out of interest, I notice you often print (grow) a single piece and then resin cast...what’s the benefit in resin casting multiples rather than just 3D printing more of them?  I don’t know enough about 3D printing to know all the pros and cons...

In this case, and most of the time I grew multiple parts.  But not every part comes out the same depending on the detail and complexity so I just use the best ones.    

The 3D resin is very hard and brittle so I cast the copies in a more user friendly material especially when I want multiples of the same parts.  Plus using one master ensures all the offspring are the same.

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2 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

In this case, and most of the time I grew multiple parts.  But not every part comes out the same depending on the detail and complexity so I just use the best ones.    

The 3D resin is very hard and brittle so I cast the copies in a more user friendly material especially when I want multiples of the same parts.  Plus using one master ensures all the offspring are the same.

Ahh, interesting!  I had no idea - thanks for taking the time to explain Mark!  Fascinating!

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On 9/5/2020 at 12:28 PM, Scale-Master said:

In this case, and most of the time I grew multiple parts.  But not every part comes out the same depending on the detail and complexity so I just use the best ones.    

The 3D resin is very hard and brittle so I cast the copies in a more user friendly material especially when I want multiples of the same parts.  Plus using one master ensures all the offspring are the same.

You're a great teacher Mark. I always appreciate your threads and the time you take to answer questions. I know some of my questions have been dumb ones but you answer mine as well as the good ones.

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Thanks guys.  I don't think any of your questions were dumb Mitch.

 

The block got a new brass dipstick channel. 

iBZ0okj.jpg

The dipstick tube is stainless steel.

dWWAHge.jpg

And the (removable) dipstick is nickel and brass.

kEv2DDh.jpg

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