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Fixing a warped frame?


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So i was looking in a old kit i have and noticed that both framerails for that truck has warped badly, they look like a C now and obviously that wont work when i want to build that kit.
What is the best way to make them straight again?
I have fixed a few others before but they were not that bad and could be fixed by just bending them slightly to the other way.

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I understand some use hot water. If you can law flat and tape to the table.

Or make new ones from flat sheet. If there is a hobby shop take one with you see if the have C channel or H channel and trim off one side.

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Okay, thanks i will try that first to se if it helps.
How do i do it with hot water? do i heat them up with it and then tape them to something flat and let them sit like that untill they have cooled off again?

I cant make new ones as there are no hobbyshops around where i live anymore, there was but internet shopping killed them..
Also this frame has the torsionbar supension molded in to them and i am not sure if i want to mess with that and trying to get everything lined up so it will go together like it is supposed to

Edited by PierreR89
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I use a jig, metal base with magnets to hold while gluing. I start at the center/middle crossmember and glue it or two in place. Then working my way out to the ends I use the magnets to force the frame past the bend and glue it. After it dries it usually relaxes back to where it should be. I don't force it really far past the point but far enough to bring it back straight again.. I build all my truck frames like that just so I know they are staying straight, helps a lot in the build of any truck...

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:):):)

Now please let me start by saying that KERRY's method (mentioned above) is BY FAR the more "correct way" to keep it straight while drying, but...…  One of the guys that used to belong to our local hobby club used to heat the warped frame rails over the stove top, cool with water, glue together, then placed a brick :o on top to keep it straight while drying:huh:......  I can't be the one to criticize him.....  his old stuff always seemed to have a straight frame!!!!  ;)

DJ

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Using heat is the best way to correct warped rails or any warpage problems . Hot water is by far the safest method but I do use a heat gun ( with extreme care and caution) on some really bad stuff . I also work on a tempered glass top on my workbench as a surface plate . Stubborn rails I use a fixture to clamp them square as DrKerry mentioned above!

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20 hours ago, PierreR89 said:

Here are some photos of the frame.
Is it possible to save it with heat (water/heatgun) or its better to make/find a new one?
IMG_20190618_194451.thumb.jpg.797c00323d1c2ba74f187441a3ade3dd.jpg
IMG_20190618_194616.thumb.jpg.569438891b7664061edfd7d684aae549.jpg

With the way I do it would work too... Start in the middle of the frame and glue it two of the cross members and keep the two sides parallel with each other so it doesn't throw off the rest of the frame. Working your way out from the middle and holding rails in place as they dry will save that no problem.. Just to toss it out there, if you're unsure about doing it and you feel safe doing it, you could box the frame parts and send them here and I can put the frame together for you. Just a thought!!

I can take pics of my jig if you'd like as well to give you an idea of what I have and how to use it if it would help. I use a smaller one for car and light duty trucks too...

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i fixed a warped chassis using boiling water. however, i have also tried and messed up a warped chassis using this method. i kept it in the water too long and it shrank

 

essentially i put it in the boiling water for a moment or two, and took it out and put it on the flat table and tossed cold water on it after i got it flat. 

Edited by youpey
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6 hours ago, DrKerry said:

With the way I do it would work too... Start in the middle of the frame and glue it two of the cross members and keep the two sides parallel with each other so it doesn't throw off the rest of the frame. Working your way out from the middle and holding rails in place as they dry will save that no problem.. Just to toss it out there, if you're unsure about doing it and you feel safe doing it, you could box the frame parts and send them here and I can put the frame together for you. Just a thought!!

I can take pics of my jig if you'd like as well to give you an idea of what I have and how to use it if it would help. I use a smaller one for car and light duty trucks too...

A pic of your jig would be nice so i can try and make something similar if i fail with the other suggestions.
Thanks for the offer but i think it would end up costing to much in shipping and i would probably end up having to pay customs for my own things (almost everything from us to sweden gets stopped by them..)

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16 hours ago, PierreR89 said:

A pic of your jig would be nice so i can try and make something similar if i fail with the other suggestions.
Thanks for the offer but i think it would end up costing to much in shipping and i would probably end up having to pay customs for my own things (almost everything from us to sweden gets stopped by them..)

I'll take some pics tonight for you!! I have a KW frame built so I can use it to show some of how I use it..

39 minutes ago, Jim B said:

It's interesting that the torsion bars are molded right onto the frame.  What kit is that?

Hmmm? I'd like to know too.... LOL

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Ok this was a quick throw together.. A person could use a wooden one with holes drilled and pins used. I use metal and magnets so they can be placed anywhere. I also have square steel plates that I can use under the frame to “shore” it up in the air if it needs something to keep it level and flat. 

I have a center line drawn down the center so that I know if the frame is straight as it dries. I put a slight curve in the frame you see here, you don’t want much of a bend as it may bend the other way.. 

i have even used a combination square across the back of the rails to keep the rails even with each other as I glue the center two crossmembers in, then wait for them to dry really good before you start working the bends out.. 

If you have anymore questions ask away, I can show better pics too if needed!

92F3D4C8-2EC9-4465-A56C-D2B087C5B906.thumb.jpeg.ded2980b312fc6ab37eaa7e5a5b16a1a.jpeg

6057F786-007A-43D2-BD6B-81C04EEF47B6.thumb.jpeg.01a8855564c272735ada8894c0dc88fc.jpeg

3540FF27-79BD-4FCB-BD32-55D42C870F44.thumb.jpeg.aaa49f4bfee9c14ef38110a61f893f76.jpeg

06A6F4D3-CAC2-4838-8FC3-F57752115EC3.thumb.jpeg.6a528280ba5fdae6f88160b31f247d52.jpeg

 

Last pic shows the over over bend better...

669DFF87-351D-4073-ABDB-834B03DFD98D.thumb.jpeg.578fadd99d9758ac2da524b4b923e926.jpeg

 

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I've always had good luck freehanding it by running it under hot water and getting it straight by eyeball, and then going JUST a bit farther and immediately cooling it under cold water.  That accounts for springback and memory of the bend. My sink has the one handle control, so I can quickly swap from hot to cold just by hitting it with my wrist as I hold the frame straight. I have always depended far more on the Mark 1 Mod 0 Eyeball for getting things square and straight, but that is me, your mileage may vary! Good luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...

First, cut the frame rails away from the sprue that is holding them together.  Even that may help to straighten some of it out.  I agree with everybody else.  Run the frame rail under hot water until it begins to bend a bit.  Do it just a little at a time.  Another thing you could do would be to tape the rail to a strip of hard wood and drop it in boiling water for just a few seconds.  The stress will come out of it and will adapt to the wood.  Then run it under cold water to set the plastic.  Unwrap the frame rail from the wood and tape.  If you can do both they should become much more adaptable to putting together.

I try and attach all cross members to one side first making sure they are at right angles to the frame rail.  Do this by setting the frame rail up on a flat surface so that it will be straight.  When the glue is set then attach the other rail making sure that as you do the frame does not develop a curve in it.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was going to try and unwarp the frame today and well it did not go as expected.
On my way to the kitchen i managed to drop the framerails on the floor and it hit the metalstrip on the floor that divides the kitchen and hallway floor.
When it hit that it shattered so instead of 2 framerails i now have 5 pices of framerails...

So now i have the fun job of piceing them together and then try to fix whatever problems might come up after that.
Guess plastic from the 70,s is more fragile then i thought it would be or there was just to much tension in them from being warped that this was the thing that finally broke it.

Or i just give up on this and buy another superboss and take the frame from that as they are exactly the same.

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47 minutes ago, PierreR89 said:

I was going to try and unwarp the frame today and well it did not go as expected.
On my way to the kitchen i managed to drop the framerails on the floor and it hit the metalstrip on the floor that divides the kitchen and hallway floor.
When it hit that it shattered so instead of 2 framerails i now have 5 pices of framerails...

So now i have the fun job of piceing them together and then try to fix whatever problems might come up after that.
Guess plastic from the 70,s is more fragile then i thought it would be or there was just to much tension in them from being warped that this was the thing that finally broke it.

Or i just give up on this and buy another superboss and take the frame from that as they are exactly the same.

Maybe someone will have a rail or both they could send you! Sorry to here about the collision with the floor! Ugh ? 

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Yeah i wonder if it had not broken if it just hit the floor insted of the metalstrip.
Anyway i have piced them together as good as i could and some of the warp is gone but i dont feel like messing with it more after that so i will se how bad it looks when everything is mounted to it.
I might get away with it by adjusting the body but if not then i am going to get a superboss to steal the frame from it.

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3 hours ago, PierreR89 said:

Yeah i wonder if it had not broken if it just hit the floor insted of the metalstrip.
Anyway i have piced them together as good as i could and some of the warp is gone but i dont feel like messing with it more after that so i will se how bad it looks when everything is mounted to it.
I might get away with it by adjusting the body but if not then i am going to get a superboss to steal the frame from it.

Hopefully when the body goes on it’ll sit right and be covered enough so it won’t matter much! Let’s hope anyway Pierre!!

Doc

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