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Can the Molotow chrome ink be polished after airbrushing it or will it remove it?

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To me its soft and has to dry for quite a while..A week at least..It its touched many times it does get dull and I would think rub off..

 

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Not going to work.

This is one of the biggest issues with Molotow chrome.

It's too fragile to be useful for many modeling applications.

Even after fully curing, it's fragile enough to where I won't use it on any parts that might possibly be handled at some point.

I save it for mostly interior parts, touch ups, and an occasional very small exterior parts.

I would never use it on bumpers or exterior trim.

Just my experience.

 

 

Steve

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Test this, and report back to us.

I'm taking bets, total fail.

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56 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Not going to work.

This is one of the biggest issues with Molotow chrome.

It's too fragile to be useful for many modeling applications.

Even after fully curing, it's fragile enough to where I won't use it on any parts that might possibly be handled at some point.

I save it for mostly interior parts, touch ups, and an occasional very small exterior parts.

I would never use it on bumpers or exterior trim.

Just my experience.

Steve

Agreed!  The Molotow pen is not the magic solution people are making it out to be.   

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I despise those pens. I’ve had them drip chrome on places I didn’t need it to be.

Only use them for bumpers, where the sprue attaches, or if I remove a seam from a bumper, and touch ups. I have had dulling even after a week of drying.

BMF the only way for me. 

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10 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Agreed!  The Molotow pen is not the magic solution people are making it out to be.   

I agree, too. BUT: part of the problem is the slow curing process. I did some testing lately painting window trims with Molotov instead of using BMF and dried that in my food dehydrator for 2 hours or so. It was much more resistant to being handled then!

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Yes, it needs to fully cure in any case. I’ve never tried to polish it, but I’ve never needed to, or wanted to polish it.

I’ve had good luck with it, but I’ve only used the pens so far. I will try airbrushing it soon.

I think it’s a good product that’s worth more experimentation from all of us.

I haven’t resisted using it because of fears of touching the part. I simply don’t touch it, nor would I allow others to do so. Granted, I’ve only used it on trim, emblems, and other parts that are already in place on the model, so the Molotow finish doesn’t have to be handled. 

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Posted (edited)

Worked great for me! Shouldn’t even have to polish it now. Needs to be applied in a semi heavy wet coat for the best outcome. I’m gonna let them set for about a week before touching them. On the rear wheel (top) the whole center hub cover, lug nuts and the ring under them is chrome plated. The wheel itself was painted with the Molotow.

02A99857-41F6-4C25-9AC0-46CA0638F0DA.jpeg

 

C4E0C9D4-E47A-4A75-A20E-0C9B301AB23A.jpeg

5119B2E3-2C4B-4EA9-8828-1C8D38954D8B.jpeg

Edited by Ben

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2 hours ago, Ben said:

Worked great for me! Shouldn’t even have to polish it now. Needs to be applied in a semi heavy wet coat for the best outcome. I’m gonna let them set for about a week before touching them. On the rear wheel (top) the whole center hub cover, lug nuts and the ring under them is chrome plated. The wheel itself was painted with the Molotow.

02A99857-41F6-4C25-9AC0-46CA0638F0DA.jpeg

 

C4E0C9D4-E47A-4A75-A20E-0C9B301AB23A.jpeg

5119B2E3-2C4B-4EA9-8828-1C8D38954D8B.jpeg

Looks beautiful! I don’t think you’ve got anything to worry about. I think the Molotow finish is actually better than kit chrome at replicating polished aluminum wheels. In theory, you don’t even have to touch them in a visible spot to mount a tire and put them on the truck. 

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I sprayed the front and rear bumpers of my last build with Molotow.

I'm relatively happy with how it turned out, but it does seem slightly duller than it did when I airbrushed it on. I took care to not touch anywhere that was visible.  I used nitrile gloves and paper towels when handling the parts. The car I started with was a glue bomb with worn out chrome, so the Molotow was a low-cost option that let me build the car. It most definitely works for that! 

I am going to use it on a resin Dodge pick-up grill, as - to me - it better resembles bright anodized aluminum than it does chrome. I'm just not going to touch it with bare hands.

Time will tell if it stands up...

poncho 6.jpg

poncho 7.jpg

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There is no doubt that the results of using this product looks good.

The question is, how well will it stand up over time?

Do any of us know?

I'm pretty confident in thinking that it will not fare well.

We all know that our models will not remain static forever.

They eventually get jostled around, need to be moved or cleaned, etc.

One errant glance from a finger nail, or slight bump against any hard surface is extremely likely to net you scratches and marks of some sort, much more easily than chrome will.

 

I remember using silver paint for much of my body trim years ago and it inevitably was worn off from places like drip rails over time just from simple light handling.

I doubt highly that Molotow ink will hold up much better.

I have used Molotow ink for small parts, and even though it has cured for weeks in some cases, it still dulls to the touch quite easily and needs to be touched up after final assembly.

It has uses, and is very handy for some applications, but I have little confidence that this product is the answer to our prayers.

 

I will continue to use much more durable chromed parts and foiled trim until it is no longer an option.

When that day comes, there are other more promising options out there like Alsa Chrome, a product that I have been hearing a little about as of late, that although quite expensive, seems to be more likely to offer some durability than Molotow.

I personally don't like the idea of using things on my builds that may not withstand the test of time, and would much rather start with something that at least has a better potential to last, rather than something that likely will not.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

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Posted (edited)

I personally don't think its a fool proof replacement for BMF. But it sure has its place. I'll still use BMF for side trim , small emblems and such  ( pre paint method  btw )

To me the best use for the pen is hubcaps , dash bezels,,, steering wheel horn rings, interior trim such as window cranks and door handles ,etc .  maybe even small touch ups on bumpers and grills.

But don't think I would use one to do an entire bumper as example. To me it doesn't lay down smooth enough for that .

and from experience if you handle it , it WILL dull and/or leave fingerprints ( trust me )

 

I did this car maybe 2 years ago now, as more of a test than anything to see if I could 

A - do it ,,,,,,and..... B - how long it takes compared to BMF work on window trim.

To do all the window trim takes me probably close to 2 hours alone. I think  I had all the window trim done in under 5 minutes with the pen. And once done i sat it aside for a few days and even then handled it very carefully just in case to do final assy of the car. There is no clear of any kind on the chrome.

ALL the window trim ( front , rear and side openings ) is the pen. ( the long body  side trim MIGHT be on this one ,,but dont want to say for sure )

Keep in mind, I don't handle mine.  Once I finish one in the case it goes and 99% of the time it never comes back out.

That said, We  recently moved across country. And  I had every build wrapped in bubble wrap and boxed up to make the trip. I found it and dug it out today . Just for a look see

Now that its back out it still looks the same as the day I finished this car .20170302_135955.thumb.jpg.2c8dd35bc9e388ec6ae90579bc469457.jpg

 

EDIT, Just remembered. The steel wheels on this one is 100% the pen.

Used the mid size version one touched it to the wheel and basically just let it flow

20170309_083643.thumb.jpg.344dd3b6817a4ddbc792950911b0e59c.jpg

Edited by gtx6970

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image.png.4a6eb444a855d0ffdeec9a49a8dd3a48.png

The biggest item I've used the pen on were the wheel hubs on this Model A.   Otherwise I've used it to touch up chrome and things like interior door handles.

I'm pretty good with BMF and will continue to use it for body trim.  I have cars that are 30 years old that the foil is still nice.

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I've used it for a lot of small trim pieces and details, and it worked fine. I then used it for a couple of bumpers and grilles and airbrushed it on. I let it dry for about a week, and today, almost two years later, it looks as good as the day it was applied. I also find that it has a much more scale appearance than overly bright mirror finish chrome. It looks perfect to my eye, and seems to hold up fine. Since I don't build show cars or trucks, I like the appearance with a very bright finish that looks real,

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I did airbrush these rims and then brushed some Future over them. The pic doesn't really show it well, but it looks pretty similar to polished aluminum. :)

...And with the acrylic Future topcoat, they can be handled without fear of dulling or rubbing off of the chrome.

molotow 1.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Ok.

I guess we have pretty much established who likes it and who doesn't.

The question still remains for the OP.

Can it be polished?

I think that we will all agree that the answer is no. ;)

 

By the way, if a polished aluminum affect is the objective, Alclad will do the same thing for a less money, and while still not perfect, it's more durable than Molotow ink.

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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10 hours ago, vincen47 said:

Looks beautiful! I don’t think you’ve got anything to worry about. I think the Molotow finish is actually better than kit chrome at replicating polished aluminum wheels. In theory, you don’t even have to touch them in a visible spot to mount a tire and put them on the truck. 

Yep, I have everything ready for install when they’re fully cured.

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One more thing, the Molotow chrome is time sensitive! I have two pens that went bad. They only produce a dull silver now.

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To me the pens are a waste of money. The refill is by far the best option. I use a small paint brush to apply, after putting a drop or two in a cup. Also if you do air brush it, thin it down a lot - sorry cant remember the exact ratio I used, but something like 2 or 3 (thinner)/1 (molotow). The paint doesn't go silver in the refill like it does in the pen. Maybe this has got something to do with air getting in the pens or maybe they are clogging up.

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As a test, I have a 1/64 truck on my desk at work with Molotowed bumpers.   Been a month or more.  Just now rubbed them.   They dulled.   Didn't nick with fingernail, but did dull.   Like others have said, when mine are done they go in a case and aren't usually touched again.  So it works okay for me to use on exterior parts.  But I have read so many things that say it isn't durable so I don't expect it to be.   Works great on interior parts and other places where no handling happens.  I also wait as long in the process as possible.  And retouch if necessary.  

Here's a tip I figured out - when applying, you want more than a dry coat.  Wet coat.  And blow on it to make the particles turn chrome faster/better.  Just like someone said a long time ago about testors Chrome silver.  May as well look at it like you are using good old testors chrome silver - about the same durability.  I held out a long time before trying it, but I am on my second pen in a year.  may go to refill because 1mm pen tip is too hard to use in many places.  Made to write with, which it does well.

Another tip, just in case you are completely new to Molotow.  I dip my finest tip brush in the chrome ink up by the pen body sometimes.  Or do the mashing thing to get a couple big drops out to dip in like paint.   I also can screw the tip off and dip in like paint.   Pretty versatile stuff.  I use it to touch up my BMF corners or chips in BMF. 

Works pretty good all in all so long as you don't go past the limitations of the medium.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, randyc said:

As a test, I have a 1/64 truck on my desk at work with Molotowed bumpers.   Been a month or more.  Just now rubbed them.   They dulled.   Didn't nick with fingernail, but did dull.   Like others have said, when mine are done they go in a case and aren't usually touched again.  So it works okay for me to use on exterior parts.  But I have read so many things that say it isn't durable so I don't expect it to be.   Works great on interior parts and other places where no handling happens.  I also wait as long in the process as possible.  And retouch if necessary.  

Here's a tip I figured out - when applying, you want more than a dry coat.  Wet coat.  And blow on it to make the particles turn chrome faster/better.  Just like someone said a long time ago about testors Chrome silver.  May as well look at it like you are using good old testors chrome silver - about the same durability.  I held out a long time before trying it, but I am on my second pen in a year.  may go to refill because 1mm pen tip is too hard to use in many places.  Made to write with, which it does well.

Another tip, just in case you are completely new to Molotow.  I dip my finest tip brush in the chrome ink up by the pen body sometimes.  Or do the mashing thing to get a couple big drops out to dip in like paint.   I also can screw the tip off and dip in like paint.   Pretty versatile stuff.  I use it to touch up my BMF corners or chips in BMF. 

Works pretty good all in all so long as you don't go past the limitations of the medium.

Another good tip is to forgo the pen altogether for small parts and touch ups and use a brush.

You'll get much better control with a brush over those clunky tips.

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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12 hours ago, Ben said:

One more thing, the Molotow chrome is time sensitive! I have two pens that went bad. They only produce a dull silver now.

Mine have done the same thing - I suspected I hadn't shaken them up enough but maybe they're just silver now rather than chrome

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11 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Mine have done the same thing - I suspected I hadn't shaken them up enough but maybe they're just silver now rather than chrome

There’s supposed to be a manufactured date on them I read but I haven’t looked yet.

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14 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Another good tip is to forgo the pen altogether for small parts and touch ups and use a brush.

You'll get much better control with a brush over those clunky tips.

 

 

Steve

That's the tip I was trying to make as well - may not have communicated well.  But reinforcement never hurts.  

As for the others, I thought mine was going bad.  Shook it more.   Applied wetter.   "chromed up" like it should have.  

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