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Super28

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I just stripped a Johan '68 Fury body sprayed with Krylon ColorMaster Gray Primer, Satin White Paint + Primer and Model Master Acryl paints brushing on Testors ELO. Took all of 40 minutes to remove every bit of paint/primer. No soaking for two weeks in a vat of CSC or whatever.

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4 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

I just stripped a Johan '68 Fury body sprayed with Krylon ColorMaster Gray Primer, Satin White Paint + Primer and Model Master Acryl paints brushing on Testors ELO. Took all of 40 minutes to remove every bit of paint/primer. No soaking for two weeks in a vat of CSC or whatever.

Anyone use this stuff on Tamiya? I have an interior bucket that was sprayed with Tamiya without primer and I can't find anything that will budge it. :mellow:

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91% alcohol works well on Tamiya's lacquers.

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I have had good luck with Tamiya and Testors lacquers by soaking the parts in 99% alcohol that I buy at the Target pharmacy section. A pint is about a dollar and I have a few bottles, since I need to add some new alcohol every few uses. It also strips acrylics and pre painted models. I've heard that 90% alcohol also works.

Also, my Purple Power is about 5 years old and has been used straight from the jug. I also add some fresh when it weakens or gets low. It works much better when the temperature is in the 80s or more as opposed to 60s or less.

I strip unknown paint in the order of cost. I try alcohol first, then Purple Power, and lastly Scale Coat. Scale Coat is great, but last time I bought it -2 years ago- it was over $8 a pint.

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In case you are wondering, yes I am better at taking paint off than putting it on, LOL.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Rodent said:

Anyone use this stuff on Tamiya? I have an interior bucket that was sprayed with Tamiya without primer and I can't find anything that will budge it. :mellow:

Yes. In addition to the previously mentioned paints/primers, I also had a nice coat of Tamiya XF-11 IJN Green, which is pretty much a dead match for the green used on pre-1973 NYPD vehicles, all of which was clear coated. EVERYTHING came off. :D ELO stripped off some funky neon green lacquer completely off a Lindberg '53 Ford body I converted into a business coupe, leaving no evidence that it was painted like a clown car.

Edited by SfanGoch

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1 hour ago, 935k3 said:

91% alcohol works well on Tamiya's lacquers.

I find that it varies , its really odd and I hate trying to strip TS sprays now , but I have learned is in some cases, you can use Super Clean( not the purple stuff) to strip Tamiya TS sprays, but it only if you used Tamiya primer.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks guys. This is a 70s AMT interior bucket that was sprayed blue with TS-something. Alcohol,  Super Clean, brake fluid, oven cleaner hasn't budged it. :mellow:

Just want to change the color. It's so lightly engraved that I don't want to put more paint over it if I can get what's there off.

Edited by Rodent

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Which brake fluid did you use? Dot 4 Brake fluid has always worked for me (dot 3 is the most commonly used stuff for paint stripping so should work too). It even removes 2k clear after a little scrubbing.

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6 hours ago, Michael jones said:

Which brake fluid did you use? Dot 4 Brake fluid has always worked for me (dot 3 is the most commonly used stuff for paint stripping so should work too). It even removes 2k clear after a little scrubbing.

I thought that Dot 3 (the old one) is glycol-based and works as paint stripper.  Isn't  Dot 4 silicone-based, and as such will not strip anything?

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40 minutes ago, peteski said:

I thought that Dot 3 (the old one) is glycol-based and works as paint stripper.  Isn't  Dot 4 silicone-based, and as such will not strip anything?

Dot 3,4 & 5.1 are all Glycol based, Dot 5 is Silicon based.

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21 hours ago, Rodent said:

Thanks guys. This is a 70s AMT interior bucket that was sprayed blue with TS-something. Alcohol,  Super Clean, brake fluid, oven cleaner hasn't budged it. :mellow:

Just want to change the color. It's so lightly engraved that I don't want to put more paint over it if I can get what's there off.

Acetone will take anything off! Just don't soak it in acetone. It will desolve plastic! BUT on a rag you can wipe anything off!

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38 minutes ago, Super28 said:

Acetone will take anything off! Just don't soak it in acetone. It will desolve plastic! BUT on a rag you can wipe anything off!

You're right.

And I've ruined many model bodies over the years with acetone.

I wouldn't recommend it.

There are far too many safe options available.

If you feel that you must use acetone, use finger nail polish remover.

Same stuff, just diluted.

Not as likely to wipe off a layer of plastic.

 

Also be aware that acetone will dry the heck out of styrene plastic.

I've had perfectly good bodies become so brittle from it's use that they literally have fallen apart in my hands.

 

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, Super28 said:

Acetone will take anything off! Just don't soak it in acetone. It will desolve plastic! BUT on a rag you can wipe anything off!

I would *NEVER* advice anybody to get acetone anywhere near a polystyrene model body.  If you have enough control of that rag to only take the paint off without marring the plastic then you are a better paint stripper than I am.  :)

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1 hour ago, peteski said:

I would *NEVER* advice anybody to get acetone anywhere near a polystyrene model body.  If you have enough control of that rag to only take the paint off without marring the plastic then you are a better paint stripper than I am.  :)

It's possible.

I used finger nail polish remover for taking off enamel when I was young and foolish.

The last straw was when I tried removing a coat of red enamel from a Johan 1960 Desoto body withe acetone, and before I even got it half stripped, the body had cracked across a C pillar and right through the cowl.

That was it for me. <_<

 

 

Steve

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Don't think I've ever heard this mentioned here, but Back In The Day we would strip paint with model airplane fuel. I believe the active ingredient in that is nitromethane. It could leave bodies brittle, too. To this day I have a couple bodies around that I stripped with the stuff 50 years ago--I need to get those rebuilt sometime. 

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What about dykem remover? I’m a tool and die maker and we use it to remove dykem blueing, magic marker, and paint from steel all the time. I haven’t tried it since I’m not sure what  the recipe of Acetone, Ethanol, N-Propyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol would do to plastic models. Although, I have cleaned plastic storage bins with it without any dire reactions. It tends to evaporate so fast it seems to not have enough time to do any damage. Just a thought since we’re throwing stuff out there!😉

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, JohnU said:

What about dykem remover? I’m a tool and die maker and we use it to remove dykem blueing, magic marker, and paint from steel all the time. I haven’t tried it since I’m not sure what  the recipe of Acetone, Ethanol, N-Propyl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol would do to plastic models. Although, I have cleaned plastic storage bins with it without any dire reactions. It tends to evaporate so fast it seems to not have enough time to do any damage. Just a thought since we’re throwing stuff out there!😉

All you can do is try it.

Use an old body or such and give it a whirl.

The isopropyl  alcohol shouldn't do any damage, but acetone will dissolve polystyrene plastic, which is what models are made of.

Something makes me think that ethanol won't do it any good either, and I have no idea about the other one.

Just because a chemical is used to clean some plastics, or possibly even stored in plastic containers, doesn't mean it's safe for all plastics.

Polystyrene is basically the same stuff that styrofoam is made of and it's not very stable.

This is why you see so many posts on the forum about what paints and chemicals are safe to use on styrene plastic.

My guess is that you will most likely not be happy with the results of using this cleaner on styrene.

Remember, gasoline evaporates quickly too, but you certainly cannot use it to strip paint from plastic! ^_^

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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The question was what to use to get the paint off. I agree Acetone is the last resort, BUR, it will remove the paint. Yes, you're going to have to do some minor putty work and alot of sanding but it will work

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9 hours ago, Super28 said:

The question was what to use to get the paint off. I agree Acetone is the last resort, BUR, it will remove the paint. Yes, you're going to have to do some minor putty work and alot of sanding but it will work

Absolutely it will work, but it's a bit risky.

 

 

Steve

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AND, you need to prime over it a bunch. and a good bath. It is a last resort but will work

 

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