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redneckrigger

Galion 12 1/2 Ton Hydraulic Rough Terrain Crane

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I've learned a lot from following this project. Keep up the great work!!!

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On 8/14/2019 at 11:23 AM, gotnitro? said:

Outstanding work  !! I really like following builds like these , shows how simple items laying around can be turned into assembled parts.

Great tip on the half rounds too, I've always struggled with getting them to curve without kinking 

It can get messy, but I find the liquid glue doesn't deform the half rounds if you keep it light on the glue. It all sands smooth when dry with real light fine sanding.

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Made up the engine enclosure and installed the radiator.  Also made a radiator guard of rod and strip styrene. Tried the half round softened by glue, and it seems it will work. Still have LOTS to go!

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24 minutes ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Keep it going!  Love the scratch building!

It's getting there.................everything is still in the rough stage, and will need lots of fine finishing, but it's starting to take shape! Thank you to all for the words of encouragement!

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This project is inspirational!!

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Tremendous work on this!

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Posted (edited)

Made up the tie rods and installed them so the steering works.  Added the steering arms for the hydraulic steering cylinders and installed them to the knuckles. Made up the parts for the four steering cylinders.  Little tiny things but a huge step in the build.  After the cylinders dry,  they will be assembled and installed to each knuckle. Also shown here are all of the subassemblies and pieces so far, AFTER a major bench cleaning, as it got so bad I couldn't even see the bench! Next to be done after the steering cylinders, will be the operator's station, controls, and the rest of the cab, and the rest of the frame with the torque converter and drive shafts. And............THEN the detailing..............which will most likely be more work than has been spent so far!

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Edited by redneckrigger

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Seeing all of the parts you have made give us an idea of all of the work that goes into it.  Great job!  How did you do the raised "GALION" on the counter weight?

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Seeing all of the parts you have made give us an idea of all of the work that goes into it.  Great job!  How did you do the raised "GALION" on the counter weight?

The lettering is actually from a company called Kit Kraft. Here is the link:  Don't remember seeing a brand name..........https://kitkraft.com/products/3-16-plastic-letters

They are easy to use and come in several different sizes................perfect for the cast name plates these old machines commonly had. Kit Kraft has lots of neat items on their site that I have used for various things in several builds.

Yeah, there are a lot of parts..............and a LOT more to come, though most of them will be detail parts. The larger sub assemblies are almost done,  except for the rest of the drive train and the operators cab. This will absolutely be the most involved piping job I have ever attempted, but it sure will be fun!

 

Edited by redneckrigger

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Steering cylinders assembled and installed.  Sometimes I wish I was building this in 1/12 scale!

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😎😎😎

Your fabrication skills are unbelievable!!!!  FANTASTIC!!!!

DJ

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Awesome work 

Really like how your cylinders come together I really tend to screw those up. Do you add a stop inside 

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Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, gotnitro? said:

Awesome work 

Really like how your cylinders come together I really tend to screw those up. Do you add a stop inside 

I glue a small piece of tubing whose outside diameter fits the inside of the cylinder onto the end of the piston rod, making the piston. I then glue another piece of the same size tubing into the rod end of the cylinder to act as the cylinder cap, which prevents the piston and rod from coming out of the cylinder, exactly like a real cylinder is made.  You can find details and photos previously posted in this thread.  Works very well! You can also make tie tod type cylinders very easily by adding square heads with tie rods holding them together as can be seen in a former thread on my Galion roller in " On The Workbench."

17 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Stick with the 1/25!!!  So much detail, it makes this really fun to watch.  

It's fun to do too, as long as I have bright lights and good tweezers!

Edited by redneckrigger

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Rainy day today so got a little bit done. Got the rubber window gasket roughed in on the windshield and the roof window.  Made up a set of new doors that overlap the opening the proper way. Mounted the transfer case/transmission. Made and installed the driveshafts and installed the drivers compartment floor and roughed in the instrument panel. Also installed diamond plate on the fuel and hydraulic tanks. The window gasket looks so-so.  Lots of fine tuning to do.  I am almost tempted to build this without the optional cab but the crane operator would be very upset with me with the cold snowy winters here in Vermont!

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Edited by redneckrigger

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Well, this project has been going great, without my all too typical one step forward three in reverse technique. But, it is time for that now. I am not happy with the operator's cab in several aspects. Most of them can be lived with, but the rubber window gasket simply does not make me happy. So.........................I have scrapped the cab, and am going to start over on it. I tried half round Evergreen. The smaller size looks far better but is evil to try to make it work. The larger size was far easier to work with, but it looks like..................well, it does not please me! So, I have a few other ideas to try, and will be not only making a new cab to fix the other problems it has, but will be hopefully finding a method to do the gaskets that looks better! I am also considering telling the crane operator to stock up on long johns and mittens, and foregoing the cab.......................! I am sure he would file a grievance with the union though!

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Here's a suggestion for the rubber window gasket.  First remove the one you have (or start with your new cab).  Next take a piece of 0.020 plastic sheet stock larger than the windshield opening and place it against the opening to where you can draw a pencil line around it onto the sheet stock.  Best if you can slip it inside the cab for that purpose but make sure it is larger than the opening as much as you can get.  Now take the sheet stock with the pencil line on it and draw parallel lines around it far enough away to represent the gasket width and just far enough so that it fits on the outside of the window opening with no gaps.  A little trial and error here may be necessary.  Once you are sure you have the right size run a sanding stick around the outside so as to round of the outer edge.  Once that is done glue the whole thing to the cab on the outside.  Make some pencil lines on the sheet stock line up with pencil lines on the cab to make sure it fits right.  (Do this before you trim anything).  Now cut out the inner portion of the sheet stock leaving the inside pencil line outline so that you can see it at all times.  If you did this right you should end up with a small shelf on the inside of the cab that you lay the glass against.  Round off the inner edge of the sheet that is left and you should have a nice small gasket around the windshield.   017.jpg.201ac4dd5637666cb8cc775c249fbc37.jpg Here are some pix of the one I did for my International before it was cast.  The inner line is the one you want to save.  The outer lines are what you will trim the sheet to.  Note also the lines on the back of the cab that will line up with the same lines on the sheet stock.

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In this photo the gasket is glued in place.  If you look closely you will see the lines drawn on the sheet and similar lines on the cab.  That is to make sure that when you cut out the inside you will have the remainder centered on the opening in the cab.

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Here is the gasket cut out.  I could have made this one smaller and more rounded both inside and outside.

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On the inside is the self I was talking about.  The glass fits up against it and leaves the surface nice and clean from the outside.

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The last thing you can do to minimize the thickness of the gasket is to use a black Magic Marker to color it.  Just do the main surface and inner portion before you put the glass in.  Let the body color be a bit of a filler around the outside edge.  Hope this helps.👍

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Holy COW! Am definitely going to try this! That sure looks a lot easier than what I was doing and it produces a one piece gasket.  That is sweet! Thanks Charlie as always for the incredible info! I had tried to think of many different ways, none of which would work as well as this. This just proves it never hurts to ask for a bit of advice, and this is great advice.

Update: I tried it on a test piece, and wow.......................so easy, simple and totally convincing and effective! Thank you sir! I also removed the previous attempt from the cab. I intend to try this method on the existing cab, at least to get used to it, and then, most likely construct a new cab. Thank you Charlie!

Edited by redneckrigger

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