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fiatboy

preparing resin parts: soak in Simple Green?

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Can resin parts be briefly soaked in Simple Green, and then primed with laquer primer?  Thanks

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You should be ok. I don't think it is as strong as Super Clean, which some casters recommend. 

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Why do they need soaking?

If you are removing mold release agents, you could try something more benign like Bleche White.

Or many people claim that soap and water will do the trick.

 

 

Steve

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While we're on the topic, does Super Clean hurt resin? 

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Some 100% first-hand experience would be nice.

Resin kits can easily cost upwards of $200.

That's not a sum I'd like to risk on "I think" or "I've heard".

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3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

While we're on the topic, does Super Clean hurt resin? 

 

2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Some 100% first-hand experience would be nice.

Resin kits can easily cost upwards of $200.

That's not a sum I'd like to risk on "I think" or "I've heard".

I personally have soaked resin bodies from Modelhaus in Super Clean, but not for an extended period of time.

I have not had any issues.

 

This is a paragraph from an old Modelhaus catalog from 30 years ago.

I would hope that this might possibly put this question to rest.

If it was good enough for Modelhaus for all of these years............

 

 

2v2ECadv5xwUbWP.jpg

 

This is as close to 100% as you're going to get.

This is not to say that all resins are the same.

 

 

Steve

 

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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I have always just soaked the parts in some water with a little dish soap for 3-4 hours, never have had any issues.

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Spraying the parts with Clorox All Purpose Cleaner, and a little scrubbing with a toothbrush, works as well.

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I've only done one resin model and used Westleys Blech white (yea that is the correct spelling)  and had no issues.  It was a very large casting, 14" wing span and 12" long fuselage, all one piece.  Soaked it over night, too a toothbrush to it to get in the panel lines and then hit it with Tamiya white primer.  Primer went down like a dream.  Smooth and even, no fisheyes. 

Edited by Pete J.

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No matter what works for you in cleaning resin parts, it's been my experience that lacquer primer doesn't bond well to resin unless it's been abraded somewhat.

I use Comet cleanser, a bit of warm water and an old toothbrush to scrub the parts before putting on ANY primer coats. 

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3 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

This is what is recommended on the Jimmy Flintstone website:

  1. CLEANING – Before using, parts must be washed off with soap (Westleys white wall cleaner), and alcohol to remove mold release.

http://jimmyflintstonestudios.com/?page_id=41

 

2 hours ago, Pete J. said:

I've only done one resin model and used Westleys Blech white (yea that is the correct spelling)  and had no issues.  It was a very large casting, 14" wing span and 12" long fuselage, all one piece.  Soaked it over night, too a toothbrush to it to get in the panel lines and then hit it with Tamiya white primer.  Primer went down like a dream.  Smooth and even, no fisheyes. 

Only problem with that is that Westley's is now a "new and improved" product from a company called Black Magic, and "new and improved" almost always means "environmentally friendly, and all the stuff that used to actually make it WORK has been removed...and replaced with water because it's cheap".

MANY online car guys say the new stuff doesn't work like the old stuff. I've used it on tires myself, and it's next to useless...where the old stuff made 'em look like new.

Any input on this?

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I've only used old-formula Bleche White. It worked great. Used lacquer primer and paint with no problems. I still have my bottle. Guess I'd better keep a close eye on it. I have a $350 kit I want to come out perfectly. 

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As referenced above, it looks like Bleche Wite is pretty crappy now. I have a Jimmy Flintstone 1961 Ford Starliner body that I am eventually going to do something with and I see a lot of recommendations for warm soapy water and alcohol. Whenever I get to it I will probably follow the procedure from this web page:  http://www.resinparts.com/working-with-resin.html

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18 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

 

Only problem with that is that Westley's is now a "new and improved" product from a company called Black Magic, and "new and improved" almost always means "environmentally friendly, and all the stuff that used to actually make it WORK has been removed...and replaced with water because it's cheap".

MANY online car guys say the new stuff doesn't work like the old stuff. I've used it on tires myself, and it's next to useless...where the old stuff made 'em look like new.

Any input on this?

The bigger the skull and crossbones on the package, the better it works...

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2 hours ago, Mark said:

The bigger the skull and crossbones on the package, the better it works...

Pretty much always the case, unfortunately. My '89 GMC truck with the more "environmentally friendly" water-based paint that's almost entirely self-stripped is a shining example, while the first-generation wildly toxic urethane I shot a VW doublecab pickup with in 1984, that's lived outside all its life, still polishes up to look almost new.

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Thanks everyone for the responses.

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I have used Simple Green as a cleaner for resin parts and bodies for a number of years with no problems. I also soke white metal and PE in to get rid of any casting residue.

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