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Greg Myers

Future furniture polish finish

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A friend sent me a picture of a model he used Future on. Said he just brushed it on. I have a few questions,

Brush it on as if you were painting the model with a brush?

Brush it on so it flows down the sides?

How does it effect decals?  Molotow chrome ?

Drying time ?

Anything i missed ?

 

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Posted (edited)

This is the same stuff as Pledge, Pledge Floor Shine, and any other variants of that name.  Should not have any effect on decals, not sure about Molotow.  Dries as any acrylic does.  It is very self-leveling, so just brush it on  as you would any other paint.  These are my suggestions, may not be 100% accurate, just repeating what I have read and heard.

Edited by TarheelRick

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I only brush it on. 

One inch wide super soft sable brush...used ONLY for Future and nothing else.

I apply front to back keeping a wet edge......cover model ONE time...do not go back to covered areas. A 2nd coat if needed after firs dries 100%.

I apply enough for nice wet look but not dripping. If to much is applied wick off excess at bottm with paper towel. 

No ill affects on decals (including ALPS), chrome or clear parts.

I allow 24 hrs min before handling. 

Started using it in 1984....never looked back. thx

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I apply using a cotton ball soaked in it, then just wipe on. Never had any problems with the cotton ball leaving any fibers either...

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Future doesn't work on molotow chrome. Turns it to silver. Use E7 paints chrome sealer for that.

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On 8/6/2019 at 12:05 PM, TarheelRick said:

This is the same stuff as Pledge, Pledge Floor Shine, and any other variants of that name.  Should not have any effect on decals, not sure about Molotow.  Dries as any acrylic does.  It is very self-leveling, so just brush it on  as you would any other paint.  These are my suggestions, may not be 100% accurate, just repeating what I have read and heard.

Pledge, Future, are there any other brands that work ?

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As far as application, has anyone tried dipping, or just pouring it over the model ?

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13 minutes ago, Greg Myers said:

Pledge, Future, are there any other brands that work ?

Pledge and Future are the same thing, Pledge bought the Future product it is currently called Pledge Revive It

11 minutes ago, Greg Myers said:

As far as application, has anyone tried dipping, or just pouring it over the model ?

I usually brush it in the same fashion as listed above but I do put mine in a case to dry to keep the dust off of it. I have never done it but from what I have read there are people that dip it because it is self leveling. For what I've been told a lot of aircraft builders use it on the glass canopies and usually apply it by dipping.

This is a modeled in color kit coated with Pledge Revive It

5c4ca7671a413_69Coronet440.thumb.jpg.7981a35e1be0672638c6402ef6ee28b1.jpg

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I bought some to use on models. Before I did, I actually used some on an unsealed tile floor. I hated it so much that I never used it on a model. :unsure:

How does it hold up after several years, for those who have used it on your models?

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10 minutes ago, Rodent said:

I bought some to use on models. Before I did, I actually used some on an unsealed tile floor. I hated it so much that I never used it on a model. :unsure:

How does it hold up after several years, for those who have used it on your models?

Almost every single race car model I've built in the last 15 years was clearcoated with Future/Pledge. No cracking, no yellowing. Look the same as the day they were coated. I also use it on armor models, after paint and before decals & weathering.

Mike

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Has anyone tried using it to restore hazed plastic headlight lenses on actual cars?

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Posted (edited)
On 8/6/2019 at 3:48 PM, Dave Van said:

I only brush it on. 

One inch wide super soft sable brush...used ONLY for Future and nothing else.

I apply front to back keeping a wet edge......cover model ONE time...do not go back to covered areas. A 2nd coat if needed after firs dries 100%.

I apply enough for nice wet look but not dripping. If to much is applied wick off excess at bottm with paper towel. 

No ill affects on decals (including ALPS), chrome or clear parts.

I allow 24 hrs min before handling. 

Started using it in 1984....never looked back. thx

I don't often use Future on cars--there are many, MUCH better products available for a good shine--but on those rare occasions when I have to for one reason or another, this is exactly how I do it. Stay shiny, my friends. B)

Edited by Snake45

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14 hours ago, Snake45 said:

there are many, MUCH better products available for a good shine

Could you tell us what they are ?

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34 minutes ago, Greg Myers said:

Could you tell us what they are ?

Two that I commonly use are Model Master Clear Top Coat and Testor Wet Look Clear. I've also used Krylon Crystal Clear. Others have other favorites. I'm hearing good things about Duplicolor Clear and hope to try it soon. 

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Posted (edited)

"Future furniture polish finish"

Greg, I know that I'm being anal, but it is one of those things.  This thing has not been called 'Future" for a very long time, but we ask know what it is, so that's cool.  But it is not (or ever has been a furniture polish".  Well, unless you want your hutch really glossy. :D It also isn't a floor polish. It is a floor finish (or shine, or whatever they call it now).  "Polish" implies that the stuff does not add any thickness to the polished surface, where this stuff is actually an acrylic clear coat (like paint).

Doesn't this forum have lengthy and sticky thread about this stuff already, with lots of hints there?

And as usual, when someone mentions Future, I point then to the Swanny: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Edited by peteski

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Thank you for clearing that up.

Not to be flip, our auto hobby has a few more, 

Cresent wrench.

Channel locks.

Duck tape,

:P

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Posted (edited)

True (assuming you mean the name and description of this liquid), but this clear acrylic floor finish is not a furniture polish. ;)

And like you, not to be flip, but I don't think I have used either Crescent wrench, Channel locks, or Duck tape on any or my plastic model kits (this is a forum for models). :D

Edited by peteski

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11 hours ago, Greg Myers said:

Duck tape,

:P

Duck tape is actually the correct name for the stuff. "Duct tape" is commonly used, but it's incorrect (although it IS sometimes used on ducts). Kinda like "shrunk" and "sunk" are now almost universally misused when "shrank" and "sank" would be right. 

Also, there's no such work as "snuck," so stop using it. B):lol:

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10 hours ago, peteski said:

True (assuming you mean the name and description of this liquid), but this clear acrylic floor finish is not a furniture polish. ;)

And like you, not to be flip, but I don't think I have used either Crescent wrench, Channel locks, or Duck tape on any or my plastic model kits (this is a forum for models). :D

However they are automotive related.;)

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"Ford" wrench ?

and the ever popular "Monkey" wrench?

and not to be flip, if you've ever worked on an old rusted up Model A you've no doubt used both of these.:P

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Greg, you have taken your own thread off the rails. The future floor polish thread has some good info and I was going to merge this thread with the existing pinned one (and modify the title to reflect the many name changes of the product). Now it has gone off and started talking about common names for automotive/repair tools and pet photos.

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Posted (edited)

Yes it has,  and all in good natured modeling and     automotive fun.:)

Train-off-the-rails.jpg

Edited by Greg Myers

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