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Side marker reflectors - why paint them?


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I found these stick-on reflective "decals" made for bicycles on Ebay .  They were very inexpensive and came wth six sheets.  I was only interested in the red and orange ones so I put some on my bike.  Here's the first model I've cut out the material and used white glue to attach it.  Most of the sheet has an adhesive backing and is thick so I used the thinner part on the edge that is thinner.  Anyway, they are reflective like the real thing so I may neve paint these again - just cut out and glue or stick on.  The Mustang is still in progress.

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Well for one thing, most cars of the era had a bezzle around the light. Which is why we paint them after we foil them. The foil creates the bezzle and using a transparent red/amber gives the illusion of a reflective surface. I appreciate trying to find an earier way, but when you are looking for realism, the sticker doesn't cut it in my opinion. 

Image result for 73 mustang fender

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20 minutes ago, Jantrix said:

Well for one thing, most cars of the era had a bezzle around the light. Which is why we paint them after we foil them. The foil creates the bezzle and using a transparent red/amber gives the illusion of a reflective surface. I appreciate trying to find an earier way, but when you are looking for realism, the sticker doesn't cut it in my opinion.

I think it's a good idea.

You can still cut them small enough to fit inside of the bezel.

Or better yet, you could cut out the molded in lens and use some of this reflective tape on the inside of the body.

 

 

Steve

 

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Really depends on the subject.  Some cars only have the lens, no trim.  If it was me, would cut a slightly larger chrome sticker (AAA insurance sticker is my material), then put this in the middle.  I like your idea, you have several lifetimes supply too. ?

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7 hours ago, Jantrix said:

Well for one thing, most cars of the era had a bezzle around the light. Which is why we paint them after we foil them. The foil creates the bezzle and using a transparent red/amber gives the illusion of a reflective surface. I appreciate trying to find an earier way, but when you are looking for realism, the sticker doesn't cut it in my opinion. 

Image result for 73 mustang fender

Actually that picture is incorrect.  None of the 71-73 Mustangs had a chrome trim around the reflector.  They were all body color.  Of course 68-70 Mustangs had the chrome trim but for my build it's correct.  The AMT and MPC kits do not have the trim outline so to make it 100% correct I'd had to scribe the rectangle and either cut out or somehow sand the reflector area down since it is recessed.  So, a lot of work for a small detail but since to me it was a choice between painting and the decal - I choose the less messy option.

Not that it matters for this discussion but the rear spoiler on the blue sportsroof (not a fastback per Ford) is not a correct factory style).  Can't anyone get stuff right anymore? ?

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Edited by vamach1
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Sorry, but that adhesive backed stuff doesn't pass the eye test, at least for me. The transparent red and amber side marker lenses are prismatic in texture on the inside surface, which is very difficult to replicate in scale.

On 8/18/2019 at 2:50 PM, vamach1 said:

 

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These look too flat and blah to me, whereas the real lenses have a subtle texture which is visible through the thickness of the lens. Plus, the sharp edges do not look right, either.

I think this material might work with a few tweaks, but not quite realistic as is.

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37 minutes ago, Casey said:

Sorry, but that adhesive backed stuff doesn't pass the eye test, at least for me. The transparent red and amber side marker lenses are prismatic in texture on the inside surface, which is very difficult to replicate in scale.

 

These look too flat and blah to me, whereas the real lenses have a subtle texture which is visible through the thickness of the lens. Plus, the sharp edges do not look right, either.

I think this material might work with a few tweaks, but not quite realistic as is.

I hear you.  I think most of us try to to paint them and getting a straight line is almost impossible with a brush.  Remember this picture is blown up so we're talking about a pretty small piece.  I still may explore cutting out the area before painting a body and perhaps adding the material from the other side to get the proper depth.  Here's the same area on another model that is painted.  What I will probably do is go back and trim the material some so it is a little narrower.  Here's a picture of the real car too and what I am trying to replicate a little easier.

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Edited by vamach1
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1 hour ago, vamach1 said:

I hear you.  I think most of us try to to paint them and getting a straight line is almost impossible with a brush.  Remember this picture is blown up so we're talking about a pretty small piece.  I still may explore cutting out the area before painting a body and perhaps adding the material from the other side to get the proper depth.  Here's the same area on another model that is painted.  What I will probably do is go back and trim the material some so it is a little narrower.  Here's a picture of the real car too and what I am trying to replicate a little easier.

Even on something this small, masking tape is your friend.

Personally, I would cut a small rectangle of foil and apply it to the inside of the bezel.

Next, I would run small pieces of Tamiya masking tape around the outside edge of all four sides of the foil. (burnish the edges well with a tooth pick)

Then a light coat of whatever paint you use. ( I use Testors "Stop Light Red")

If it needs another coat, wait a half an hour and hit it again.

Before the paint is dry, remove the tape and you should have a perfectly rectangular marker light.

 

 

Not quite as easy with round markers. :D

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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On 8/23/2019 at 3:44 PM, Casey said:

Sorry, but that adhesive backed stuff doesn't pass the eye test, at least for me. The transparent red and amber side marker lenses are prismatic in texture on the inside surface, which is very difficult to replicate in scale.

 

These look too flat and blah to me, whereas the real lenses have a subtle texture which is visible through the thickness of the lens. Plus, the sharp edges do not look right, either.

I think this material might work with a few tweaks, but not quite realistic as is.

 

I tried gluing the material over the painted area and I am happy with the result.  I finally got a picture that shows the tiny pattern.  You can see a tiny bit of yellow underneath but to the naked eye it is hardly noticeable.

 

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Edited by vamach1
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2 minutes ago, vamach1 said:

I hear you.  I think most of us try to to paint them and getting a straight line is almost impossible with a brush.  Remember this picture is blown up so we're talking about a pretty small piece.  I still may explore cutting out the area before painting a body and perhaps adding the material from the other side to get the proper depth.

I tired gluing the material over the painted area and I am happy with the result.  I followin got a picture that shows the tiny pattern.

 

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I have to say I share the concern of the other comments but that photo is actually not bad and pretty realistic. I think one thing you could try is to cut the piece out to shape, then coat it in future or clear epoxy. Gotta find away to get those edges flat and more realistic. Then you could glue it to the body.

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43 minutes ago, DiscoRover007 said:

I have to say I share the concern of the other comments but that photo is actually not bad and pretty realistic. I think one thing you could try is to cut the piece out to shape, then coat it in future or clear epoxy. Gotta find away to get those edges flat and more realistic. Then you could glue it to the body.

Thanks.  As mentioned above - on this year Mustang they are recessed so I'm thinking (before painting the body) cut out the rectangle, put some plastic behind it painted red or yellow orange, tape over and paint the body, peel off tape and then apply the "decal."  A lot of work but it would yield the most realistic results.

For comparison here is how Danbury Mint did the Boss 351.   The only error is there should not be any black wash in the recesses.

 

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2 hours ago, vamach1 said:

 

I tried gluing the material over the painted area and I am happy with the result.  I finally got a picture that shows the tiny pattern.  You can see a tiny bit of yellow underneath but to the naked eye it is hardly noticeable.

 

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That actually looks pretty nice!

I think if you cut out the old lens and inserted these from the back side of the body, you would have the perfect solution.

 

Even the way it is, we need to realize that this photo is an extreme close up.

It's not possible to get this close with the naked eye.

If it looks this good this close, it will look great with the naked eye.

 

 

Steve

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Building aircraft kits, navigation/position lights need to be added. If/when I do, I put a base color of silver down first, then after it dries I apply Tamiya clear red, yellow or orange. Seems if you have bare metal foil down already then add the clear paint, you can have the bezel and lens easily. Haven't tried this yet (no chrome bezels on warplanes) but maybe on a future build.

Don

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The first four people (sorry US) only to rely and then PM I will send a sample of both colors for free.  I have no financial interest in this product - just want to give some away as I have more than I could use on 100 models.  So just reply and PM your full name and address and your "prize" will be in the mail.  If you end up using it or come up with other uses just post here.

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