Straightliner59 Posted September 20, 2019 Author Share Posted September 20, 2019 I built a set of springs, for this thing. When I set the body and floorboard on the chassis, it was apparent that the springs, as they were, wouldn't be sturdy enough to support the weight of the model. I cut and bent some brass strip, to rectify the problem. Monogram's front crossmember looked too clunky, to me, so, I built one from Evergreen channel and .010" sheet. I got new fender arch panels cut and installed. I need to finish cleaning them up, and add the rolled strengthening ribs. The chassis is all cleaned up. I'm still trying to find a proper rearend center for it. If I don't, it should be simple enough to build one. As always questions, comments and critiques are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 I'm getting the running gear sorta' sorted out. Here are the components that make up the rear brakes/wheel assemblies. The backing plates are, maybe from the early '80s release of Revell's T-bucket. I can't recall who cast the finned drums. They fit nicely together with the backing plates. I made the hubs from Plastruct tube. The other photo shows them stacked together. The rear axle center section is from AMT's '29 Roadster kit. I'm not sure where the axle tubes came from. They were plated, until I tossed them in the Purple lake. They are very nice. I suspect they may be Revell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 22, 2019 Share Posted September 22, 2019 Nice start. Nice fab work. Its amazing projects take control of how they want to be done. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted September 22, 2019 Author Share Posted September 22, 2019 (edited) 37 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said: Its amazing projects take control of how they want to be done. Thanks, Bob! They certainly do. This one has! ? Edited September 22, 2019 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted September 23, 2019 Author Share Posted September 23, 2019 A funny thing happened, on the way to a quickie build. I started thinking about the engine, and decided that I wasn't very fond of the molded on oil filler tube, starter, etc. So...now, I have this. I cut everything off the engine, above the oil pan, and began replacing it with Evergreen stock. I will also use the kit's timing cover. The plastic rod in these photos will be used to make the cylinders. I also shortened the front spring, and lengthened the axle. I wanted to use a beam axle, but, couldn't find one I liked, so, i went with this tube axle. As always, questions, chritiques and comments are welcome! thanks for lookin'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted September 26, 2019 Author Share Posted September 26, 2019 I have the cylinders cut, and have begun work on the starter. The engine-turned aluminum is the side cover, but, I may make another one that has some relief detail. It will get bolt heads, of course. I still need to make the head. I'll likely go with a Winfield. Does anybody know the best green to use on one of these early flatties? Questions, comments and critiques always welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 While waiting for paint to cure on the Firebird, I worked on some stuff for this project. I am really liking the look of the wheels from the Heller BMW 328. They fit better with the rear suspension than the '37 pickup's wheels do. I will probably make new centers for these wheels (I made a mold), with detail for five lugs. Apparently, there are at least a thousand ways to attach the spring to the axle. If it sits low enough, I will mount the bracket where it's shown in the photo, If I need another couple or three inches, I will move it around, to the rear of the backing plate. Also visible is the area I cut out of the rear crossmember, to allow the spring to sit higher in the chassis. I didn't/don't want to "z" the frame. I made an aluminum side cover for the engine. It looked pretty lifeless, just as it was, so, I used a set of wide-jawed pliers to put a gentle fold down the center of its length, then used them to re-flatten the end. I still need to mark it, and drill it for mounting bolts. Comments, questions and critiques are always welcome! Thanks fer lookin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 I really like where you're going with this. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 How cool is that to see you working in my wheel house. ? I'm looking forward to seeing you apply your not-insignificant skills in fabrication and historical research to this type of project. I was traveling in early September when you started this so I missed the send-off. As I read through the posts I thought of the very nice 4-bangers from the Monogram-then-Revell '29-'30 Pickup/Sedan kits, but then you went and scratched your own! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 20 hours ago, David G. said: I really like where you're going with this. David G. Thanks, David! I appreciate it! 14 hours ago, Bernard Kron said: How cool is that to see you working in my wheel house. ? I'm looking forward to seeing you apply your not-insignificant skills in fabrication and historical research to this type of project. I was traveling in early September when you started this so I missed the send-off. As I read through the posts I thought of the very nice 4-bangers from the Monogram-then-Revell '29-'30 Pickup/Sedan kits, but then you went and scratched your own! LOL It's fun, in this wheelhouse! I've wanted and old style hot rod, for a long time, and one night, I opened the closet, and the little coupe called to me! Interestingly, the wire front wheels originally came out of this very kit. I'd shuffled them to several different projects/ideas, over the years. I first built them over 20 years ago! Now, they come home to stay. I have the Revell Woodie and the "Rat Rod" release of Revell's venerable roadster pickup. The engine in the Woodie is pretty nice! I was going to keep this simple, and use the engine from this kit, but, I hated the oil filler tube, and knew it would be way too much hassle to clean its remains from between the cylinders, and, off I went! I think I will make the oil line on the right side of the engine with copper line and brass fittings, just for appearance' sake. What would you recommend for green paint for the Engine? I think I want to go with that early Ford green. Thanks for your comments, Bernard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 I have decided to use the Beemer wheels. I made a mold of the Heller piece, because I only found one of them. Once they were cast, the wheels just fell through the tire. I added a strip of Plastruct .030" half-round to the perimeter of the wheel, which, I think looks better than without it. I will get to the hobby shop in the next couple of weeks, and will pick up some .020" half-round, and try that, as well. Also, slightly visible is the milled indent for a hub. This one is 1/4", but, in order for it to fit the bolt pattern, I will go with 5/16" for the finished wheel. Right now, I am experimenting, working toward a master that I can make a final mold from, and have five lug disc wheel. The first photo illustrates the half-round,applied to the rim. The next features the new wheel, as well as the original Heller part, and the casting, without the flange, which is clearly too small. Finally, we have the modified casting alongside the "straight-from-the-mold" casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 On 10/14/2019 at 9:54 AM, Bernard Kron said: As I read through the posts I thought of the very nice 4-bangers from the Monogram-then-Revell '29-'30 Pickup/Sedan kits, but then you went and scratched your own! LOL As I was looking through my photo files, I came across these pics of a speedster I started working on many years ago. These really are beautiful little flatties! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 On 9/26/2019 at 6:50 PM, Straightliner59 said: I have the cylinders cut, and have begun work on the starter. The engine-turned aluminum is the side cover, but, I may make another one that has some relief detail. It will get bolt heads, of course. I still need to make the head. I'll likely go with a Winfield. Does anybody know the best green to use on one of these early flatties? Questions, comments and critiques always welcome! I like to paint the engine and transmission the same color as the body as using black hides all of the extra work you are doing here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, misterNNL said: I like to paint the engine and transmission the same color as the body as using black hides all of the extra work you are doing here. Tom, maybe I like black, because it hides all my imperfections! ? Somewhere, I've seen some of these painted green, I thought. If not, I guess green is a part of my vision for this engine. I'm thinking a medium forest or olive green, maybe. Here are the first shots with the header in place, and the engine between the rails, with the body on. I will have to modify the pipes, so that they will clear the body. The stance isn't finalized here, the chassis is just sitting on blocks, to provide something close. I was absolutely sold on the BMW wheels...until I used a punch and dapping block on some tooling aluminum, to do this: The aluminum is scratched, and has tiny dents in it. That's just the look I want for this car. I have made three different centers for the Beemer wheels: While I used the rotary table and mill to make these centers, when I was finishing them, I used a tip that Ace (I think) mentioned that bears repeating: A few small milling bits can be handy to have around, even if you don't own a mill. A 1/16" ball-ended mill was used by hand to cut the reliefs in the disc, below. Small flat end mills can be used to square the bottom of an indentation. End mills with a 1/8" shank can be inserted into a pin vise. Lastly, this is probably my least favorite, because I think it looks too modern, for where I want this project to go. Anybody care to help me decide which of the four wheels to go with? I would very much appreciate everyone's feedback! Thanks for looking at this. Edited October 20, 2019 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 I agree in your preferred wheel choice. The military style with the openings around the rim edge is the most vintage look. The hub cap style looks like something swiped from a parked police cruiser outside a dounut shop.:) I will gladly send a couple photos of some of my speedster engine color choices if you PM my your email address. Either way this project is surely headed in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 13 hours ago, Straightliner59 said: As I was looking through my photo files, I came across these pics of a speedster I started working on many years ago. These really are beautiful little flatties! Wow! The work on this chassis is incredible. Here's to showing the mere kit assemblers what goes into creating a real model! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeatMan Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Awesome scratchbuilding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Excellent work, Daniel - I love the direction you’re going! Regarding the green color used by Ford from 1928 through the end of the forties on the 4 and 8 cylinder flatheads: you can spend a lot of money on authentic Ford Engine Green, but Walmart has Rustoleum Hunt Club Green #7944 which is a dead ringer at 1/5 the price. A fair backup is Krylon Hunter Green #53502. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Danno said: Excellent work, Daniel - I love the direction you’re going! Regarding the green color used by Ford from 1928 through the end of the forties on the 4 and 8 cylinder flatheads: you can spend a lot of money on authentic Ford Engine Green, but Walmart has Rustoleum Hunt Club Green #7944 which is a dead ringer at 1/5 the price. A fair backup is Krylon Hunter Green #53502. Thank you for your kind words, Danno! The less expensive, the better, in my book. I'll be picking that up, next time I'm at Walmart. 5 hours ago, Tom Geiger said: Wow! The work on this chassis is incredible. Here's to showing the mere kit assemblers what goes into creating a real model! Thank you, Tom. It's one of those things you mentioned the other day, about trying stuff, just to see if you can do it. That's where this chassis came from. Somewhere, I have a '41 Plymouth chassis started, too. 5 hours ago, MeatMan said: Awesome scratchbuilding! Thanks, Dennis. Thanks for looking in! 8 hours ago, misterNNL said: I agree in your preferred wheel choice. The military style with the openings around the rim edge is the most vintage look. The hub cap style looks like something swiped from a parked police cruiser outside a dounut shop.:) I will gladly send a couple photos of some of my speedster engine color choices if you PM my your email address. Either way this project is surely headed in the right direction. I sent a PM, Tom. I love that description, regarding the hubcaps--perfect! Thanks for your feedback and for checking it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 I am looking for just the right photos to send on my speedsters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 27, 2019 Author Share Posted October 27, 2019 (edited) I have been working on a couple of things: First, I drilled the engine side cover to accept brass model RR bolts. As you can see, the bit (it was in the Dremel, mounted in the drill press) skipped in a few spots. On one of the holes, I was obviously a bit too aggressive, and ended up with an out-of-place hole. I will have to figure a way to disguise that! I also mage a pair of castings forthe brakes from a two-piece mold I made. I didn't do much cleanup on these, other than to sand off the mold lines. After that, I just washed them, and shot them with Testor's metalizers--stainless for the drum, titanium for the backing plate. I'm pretty happy with the way they came out. Questions, comments, critiques always welcome! Thanks for looking! Edited October 27, 2019 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 I got the reinforcing ribs added to the wheel "cutouts". Also mounted the spring brackets to the backing plates. The Winfield head is coming along... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Metallic Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 On 9/20/2019 at 6:34 AM, Straightliner59 said: I built a set of springs, for this thing. When I set the body and floorboard on the chassis, it was apparent that the springs, as they were, wouldn't be sturdy enough to support the weight of the model. I cut and bent some brass strip, to rectify the problem. Monogram's front crossmember looked too clunky, to me, so, I built one from Evergreen channel and .010" sheet. I got new fender arch panels cut and installed. You may be pleased to know that your spring construction technique inspired me to try some myself. I'm pretty happy with the results, and they prove quite strong. in fact, I ended up scratchbuilding the entire frame. thank you for sharing, it motivated at least one modeler to challenge himself. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 On 10/19/2019 at 10:07 PM, Straightliner59 said: As I was looking through my photo files, I came across these pics of a speedster I started working on many years ago. These really are beautiful little flatties! I have used those quarter elliptical springs myself on a couple speedsters. Nice detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 3 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said: You may be pleased to know that your spring construction technique inspired me to try some myself. I'm pretty happy with the results, and they prove quite strong. in fact, I ended up scratchbuilding the entire frame. thank you for sharing, it motivated at least one modeler to challenge himself. ? Thank you, Craig! I am always happy to know when I can inspire someone, or just have an idea that helps them move a project along. Nice work, too, sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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