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DIY injection stacks?


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I need 10 for a current project. I'm not going to pony up $20+ for two sets of aluminum ones. I'd prefer to make them if I can. I'd like to hear any methods you've come up with the properly flare the ends of either styrene or aluminum tube. Thanks.

Edited by Jantrix
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Ron, Just round off one end of a regular metal axle, put it about 1/4 inch in the end of your aluminum and start working it around in circles, pushing the end of the aluminum out a little bit as you go around.

Start with small circles and slowly increase the angle while slowly allowing the axle to come out a tiny bit each time.  Eventually, the end of the aluminum will be flared out . Work slowly so it dosen't bend too much at once or rip the tube when it starts to get thinner as it flares out.

You can then polish the tube with a bit of your favorite polish and cut to length.

That's how I did these ones.

128 2859

128 2855

Edited by Can-Con
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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, Greg Myers said:

... all of the listed sources sites are dead.

Wrong. This one's still good. And it takes some effort on the part of the buyer to determine exactly what size to buy.

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/altech-corp/2222-0-100/70078419/

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Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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11 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

 And it takes some effort on the part of the buyer to determine exactly what size to buy.

Yes it does. I measured the diameters of some plastic ones I had both at the base and at the flare to determine the size I needed.  I did purchase some. I believe I got 12 and 14 gauge. After the intake is mocked up for the V10, I'll post up some photos in this thread. Most any website you look at for these SHOULD post up a data sheet for the part. By comparing your measurements to the data sheet specs on the parts, should help you determine what part you need. I recommend a digital micrometer. Thanks again for the advice, gentlemen.

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2 hours ago, Jantrix said:

Yes it does. I measured the diameters of some plastic ones I had both at the base and at the flare to determine the size I needed.  I did purchase some. I believe I got 12 and 14 gauge. After the intake is mocked up for the V10, I'll post up some photos in this thread. Most any website you look at for these SHOULD post up a data sheet for the part. By comparing your measurements to the data sheet specs on the parts, should help you determine what part you need. I recommend a digital micrometer. Thanks again for the advice, gentlemen.

And thank YOU sir, for posting additional relevant specific data. Very helpful to have it right here.

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The problem with scale injector tubes is getting the right diameter. As I understand it, the real tubes were 2” in diameter. This reduces to .080” in 1/25, an odd size. 1/8” tubing is way too big as it scales to 3.125; 3/32” scales to 2.343” (the closest) and 1/16 scales to 1.562 (too small).

The shoe eyelet chart shows .07 and .09 diameters—sadly, no .08. The .07 scales to 1.75”, while the .09 scales to 2.25” (although 2.16” in 1/24, which might look okay on some 1/24 engines).

Evergreen makes lovely .080” styrene rod, but of course you have to hollow it out yourself, which is no fun.

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33 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

The problem with scale injector tubes is getting the right diameter. As I understand it, the real tubes were 2” in diameter. This reduces to .080” in 1/25, an odd size.

Actually, .080" equals 2.0 mm, a size in which aluminium tubing is indeed readily available through hobby sources. K&S sells it.

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46 minutes ago, Bainford said:

Actually, .080" equals 2.0 mm, a size in which aluminium tubing is indeed readily available through hobby sources. K&S sells it.

I have NEVER seen 2mm K&S tubing in any retail establishment in 50 years, but a check of their website shows they do in fact offer it. I'll need to check into finding an online source, and then order a bunch of it. Thanks! B)

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Using the data above. I purchased the 12 and 14 AWG ferules. I was able to accomplish this. These are the 14 AWG pieces. I'm pretty happy with them. 

I realize this intake I've created, likely has no basis in reality and/or isn't mechnically possible. This model is a slump buster and my usual requirement of mechanically "plausible" has been put on the shelf next to my empty bucket of free time. Besides this is the fourth attempt at something decent looking. Again, thanks very much for the assist gentlemen. I hope this has helped/will help someone else.

BTW - the two bags of 100 pieces was less than the six bucks it took to ship. $12.25 total.

 

 

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Edited by Jantrix
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