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Maverick Pro Stock/Match Racer


Codi

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29 minutes ago, Codi said:

Thank you everyone for the replies and input on the pic situation.  Seems it strictly an iPhone issue.  No problems on a computer per se.  On the iPhone just turn it horizontally and they'll come into focus if you're interested. 

I did want to reply to Claude and his offer.....I actually bought that very issue about a month or so ago.  You should all the info I now have on these carbs.  They are every bit the challenge to make I can assure  you.  More experimenting today and then doing final drawings. 

Cheers and thanks once more!!! 

Hi!

The more the better, then. Keep whittling at it!

CT

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I have spent so much time on my own stuff I didn’t even take a look at what others are doing. That being said, Tim this is truly amazing stuff, your machining abilities are outstanding. Keep up the great work! I know there is more to come

Chris

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Gentlemen, THANK YOU one and all for your interest still.  This has been slow going but now with school officially over (and also the end of my teaching duties) I can hopefully be more productive.   I'll try to explain briefly the pics in order.....the 1st pic is of the bottom half of the carb top plate.  The pic shows it on the mill before parting off...

DSC 0054

I took one of the top portions shown earlier and placed it on this piece just to get a look.  It does give a bit of a preview of what the finished carb should look like at least in terms of overall height. 

DSC 0031

These are the top and bottom portions now that the bottom is parted off..........they're less than .5 thick

DSC 0011

The next 3 pics show the two halves joined together with some tubes inserted to line em' up.........looking at the 2 middle throats you can see they're a pretty good fit.......

DSC 0003

DSC 0006

DSC 0004

This last pic is the result of a lot of hours re-thinking and drawing how I want to do the main bodies of the carbs.  I took some Renshape and spent an hour proofing out my drawings and the feasibility of my idea.  I truly wanted to do the feet as part of the barrel/carb itself.  The hold in each is .3 and the overall width of each "foot" ( I call them tangs)  is only .6mm......I will have to do a new tool to be able to flip the ends to round them properly as I did for the top plates.........I'm very happy with it and I'm going to do these next (4 of them) If that goes well, just the base plate/portion and the accelerator pump and fuel bowl details.  

DSC 0037

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29 minutes ago, Chris Smith said:

Looks fantastic Tim, forgive my ignorance, what is the blue for? On your last photo

I'm obviously not Tim, but, the blue is the Renshape, which is typically used in modeling and prototyping. If  you check out the thread about The Issues With Scratchbuilding, there's a more thorough description of it.

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You say I'm still interested Tim!   Your carburetor setup is taking shape nicely and your attention to details is out of the ordinary sir.  I will have to take a try at this Renshape material one day or another... seem very useful!   By the way, glad to see that the bantam is now the trademark in your new profile picture, this amazing build deserve it's new function!

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Hi Chris -  The blue was sharpie that I colored the renshape with before starting to machine it.  The natural color of the material and the tiny size of the part make it challenging to see the end result sometimes.  After cutting away the material,  the blue part that remains just makes it easier for me to see and where I might have to make corrections in my method.  

Daniel, you're oh so right.  It is amazing stuff.  My friend Dave (comp1839) showed me what could be done with this material.  I bought a sample kit of materials but Dave was kind enough to give me big chunk of it that I still use today. 

Francis - appreciated as always sir.  Try to get a sample kit if you're interested.  They make different densities of the material for different applications.  You'll find the one(s) you need I'm sure.  I love it for sampling etc.  Super easy to work with and VERY stable even though you might not think so.  I did the Bantam finned disc brake calipers out of Renshape btw.  

Leonard - Okay..........where have you been hiding?  How about posting some of your latest work on the forum?  Always enjoyed your work and threads or are they here and I'm not looking in the right place?   All the same, thank you for the sentiments.  cheers

John, Art, Chris and Dave...........always a pleasure to read your comments no matter what I'm building or doing.  Hopefully in a couple days I'll get my 1st (of 4) of the carb bodies done!!   Took off time over the weekend like so many others!    Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tim, incredible work as always! I've seen people using "renshape" but I do not know
where to purchase some. Any ideas for sources? While I'm seeking sources I've searched
high and low to find some "tin plate" I believe it's called. I must have called every printer
I could find a number for. Congratulations for accolades on your job of building the Bantam.
It's one of the most detailed pieces of art I've ever seen. I'm always excited to see your
next post of progress on your cars.
Regards,
Jimmy

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I'm sorry to disappoint with no updated pics today.  The tooling/method I want came up with to make the carb bodies is fighting me.  Not giving up yet..........might have to call Doctor Dave (comp1839) on this one.   I'm not giving up on them because I'm convinced they'll be well worth it.

Certainly appreciate the comments however and interest still in this project. 

For Jimmy, Renshape used to sell a sampler kit of their many materials they offer.  You should reach out to them to see if they still off it and how you might buy a very small quantity.  It is expensive.  When Dave gave me a 10 x 10"x 2" block of the stuff I thought it was Christmas.  Regarding "printers plate".......I was fortunate to have 2 individuals, Brad (gasser59) and Goatguy (Dave) donate some of the real thing to me. The closest thing I was able to come up with was flashing they sell in the roofing department in small 90 degree pieces at Home Depot.  I think Lowes might sell something like it too.  You could try that in a pinch.    Hope this helps! 

Cheers, tim

 

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Tim... Outstanding work. You never disappoint that's for sure. I know that there is a lot of thinking ti figure out how to set a part up as well as what will work and what won't. I have no doubts that you will be able to figure a way to do it. I am sure Dave has ideas to help out, he sure knows his stuff. I look forward to your next update. Cheers!

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Hey bud, great work from everything I've seen so far. 

I'm just getting into models myself. Long story short is that I lost my hotrod and health almost 3 years ago at an event, and I think I found something here that will keep me out of a car for a couple more years while I heal from 3 surgery's already done with 2 more ready to be scheduled as soon as this crazy world calms down. 

I'm chiming in to see if some of the knowledge I've acquired could be of help to you.  

I'm noticing some little issues with the surface quality of parts on one side of the cut. I've never worked with items this small so I can be way off base. It looks like you're milling everything in a 3 jaw that's attached to your milling table, with support rods going through the work and into blocks that are attached to the table.  I'm wondering if the chatter is caused by the work holding,  the end mill deflecting when climb cutting,  backlash in the table, harmonics due to lack of mass in the machine. Or I'm crazy and just see shadows. 

Just incase I'm not crazy maybe a little change here and there could help. A good mill vice, some collets a square and hex collet holders can really hold your round stock well, and you can quickly change faces with minimal reset or time. If good vices aren't available at this scale I would be willing to CAD some plans for you. 

If the above is setup won't work I can help optimize your current work holding method. 

Instead of the pins and wires strapped to everything.  Try holding your work with some cheap super glue. I use it for much bigger things on the lathe and never had my work come out.  Just apply a little heat and your part comes right off.

I have a few more things, but I took my ambien before I started typing and.... I'm asleep now. 

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Thanks so much guys for the comments and offers of help.   Dave, I'll be in touch for a quick sanity check.

Dick, thanks for the offer & your insights.  The setup you are referring to was a unique one for sure & I'm happy with the result.  When machining at this scale, sometimes you have to be quite creative in how to make them.  Ergo the wires etc. I used to part it off.  The loads were such that nothing untoward happened when doing it and I didn't bother to clean up the surfaces of any machine marks made by the slitting saw as it won't be seen. The parts that are shown above are about 1/8"  wide x .5mm thick and just over 1/2' in length btw.   I assure you they're perfectly flat and consistent in their thickness through out.  I've done the glue trick many times in the past but it wasn't going to work for these parts due to the radius on each end I was milling and the need to flip the parts to do so.  Again, thanks for the offer, which is very generous of you.  Sorry to hear about your health issues but I'm sure as you jump into the hobby you'll find it to be a blast. Be sure to post on the forum too!   Cheers, Tim

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On 6/11/2020 at 6:01 AM, Codi said:

I'm sorry to disappoint with no updated pics today.  The tooling/method I want came up with to make the carb bodies is fighting me.  Not giving up yet

No dissapointment from you Tim!  The carburetors you attempted to make are a big challenge to do with nothing to compare with a standard set-up and I have no doubt that you and your friend Dave will find again a magic trick for these one too!

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