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1968 Oldsmobile 442 W-30


StevenGuthmiller

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23 minutes ago, DukeE said:

Incredibly boring car and colors to put such nice skills into. How do you stay awake working on it?? :)

I enjoy immensely working on unusual subjects.

Not so much that the 1:1 is that unusual, but the kit definitely is!

 

I also really appreciate unusual color combinations.

I don't get excited about the same old, same old.

 

 

Steve

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3 hours ago, Bucky said:

Boring?? If I could afford a 1:1 '68 442, I'd have one in my driveway. I think they are cool cars!

 

1 hour ago, RichCostello said:

Me too! I think the 68 is my favorite 442.

Don't sweat it guys, I think that "Duke" was just trying to make a point and twist the knife a little in response to another thread.

I didn't take the bait. ;)

 

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, Bucky said:

Seriously?? Who does that?? Hahaha

Great little detail that will show up well, I think!

Thanks Keith.

 

I'm not sure how noticeable they will be once the seats are in the model, but in my research looking at interior pictures, it's one of the first things that always jumped out at me when looking at the front seats.

They weren't difficult to do, so I whipped them up quick. ^_^

 

 

 

Steve

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Would the REVELL '72 Cutlass underpinnings be compatible with the Jo-Han '68 4-4-2 body?

I have a '68 promo I'm thinking about reworking, and I also have a REVELL '72 kit handy.

I haven't had time to check the parts out together, and I haven't blown the promo apart yet, either.

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8 hours ago, Bucky said:

Would the REVELL '72 Cutlass underpinnings be compatible with the Jo-Han '68 4-4-2 body?

I have a '68 promo I'm thinking about reworking, and I also have a REVELL '72 kit handy.

I haven't had time to check the parts out together, and I haven't blown the promo apart yet, either.

Very possibly!

I don't think much changed in the basic platform from '68 to '72, but I'm certain that the Olds experts will have all of the details on that.

I don't have one of the Revell Cutlass', and there is very little difference between the '68 and '69, So I figured I would use the MPC '69 for the base.

Even the upholstery pattern is nearly the same between '68 and '69.

 

 

Steve

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On 9/26/2019 at 7:31 PM, TarheelRick said:

Going too be an interesting build to watch, especially with your master's touch. When I use alligator clips to hold pieces in place they always seem to mar the piece, especially if they are thin, how do you keep that from happening?

 

On 9/26/2019 at 7:37 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I guess at this stage of the game, I don't worry about it.

There will be plenty of prep and sanding to do on the body before it's ready for paint.

 

I never use them on painted parts.

 

 

Steve

Well, this sort of answered my question, although I like the suggestion of electrical tape on the teeth.

This is going to be a spectacular job when you're done with it.

Charlie Larkin

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1 hour ago, charlie8575 said:

 

Well, this sort of answered my question, although I like the suggestion of electrical tape on the teeth.

This is going to be a spectacular job when you're done with it.

Charlie Larkin

I took the tape suggestion to heart as well, although I just wrapped a piece of regular masking tape around the teeth.

Making the toothed area flat with a piece of tape aids in securing small parts while the glue sets.

 

I hadn't used any "Plastic Weld" glue for a long time, so I ordered some recently.

I'm glad that I did.

It works a LOT better than super glue for gluing these small trim pieces in place.

 

 

 

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was contemplating what I wanted to do with the air cleaner on this build, and well, as usual, things snowballed on me a little. ^_^

 

I will be using a Fireball Rochester Quadrajet carb for this build and wanted to be able to display it if wanted with a removable air cleaner.

My first thought was that being as I had a couple of the Olds dual snorkel air cleaners, it might be nice to cut them up and combine the two to make it nicer to paint the base black and leave the top chrome.

Well, I could just glue the lid onto the base once it was painted, but where's the fun in that? :D

 

I decided that it might be really cool to detail the inside of the air cleaner as well.

It took me a good portion of the afternoon, but I'm increasingly finding that I really enjoy playing with things like this occasionally.

 

Here is what I did.

 

 

I started by hollowing out the first air cleaner body.

Next, a piece of styrene sheet was added to the bottom and a hole was cut out to fit over the carb and accept whatever interior detailing I decided to do.

While in the process of grinding and sanding the base, it became necessary to remove the original vacuum diaphragms, so the snorkels were drilled out to fit new ones.

The new diaphragms were just cut and shaped from styrene rod and inserted into the holes.

Next, the lid was cut from the second air cleaner and thinned.

I just kind of fell on the interior detail when I stumbled across a wheel hub from the AMT 1949 Ford kit that looked like it might work with a little refinement.

It was drilled, ground, filed and sanded into submission until it fit acceptably over the carb and into the air cleaner body.

Finally, the air cleaner element was modified from the open element air cleaner from the AMT "Old Pro" '72 Nova kit.

It was drilled out and filed and sanded to fit the body.

 

I think it will be kind of fun to have a removable air cleaner with a separate lid and air cleaner element to afford different options for display.

Especially since I will have some wonderful air cleaner decals provided by Bob Spedding to proudly display as well! ;)

Thanks again Bob!!

 

 

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Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I was contemplating what I wanted to do with the air cleaner on this build, and well, as usual, things snowballed on me a little. ^_^

 

I will be using a Fireball Rochester Quadrajet carb for this build and wanted to be able to display it if wanted with a removable air cleaner.

My first thought was that being as I had a couple of the Olds dual snorkel air cleaners, it might be nice to cut them up and combine the two to make it nicer to paint the base black and leave the top chrome.

Well, I could just glue the lid onto the base once it was painted, but where's the fun in that? :D

 

I decided that it might be really cool to detail the inside of the air cleaner as well.

It took me a good portion of the afternoon, but I'm increasingly finding that I really enjoy playing with things like this occasionally.

 

Here is what I did.

 

 

I started by hollowing out the first air cleaner body.

Next, a piece of styrene sheet was added to the bottom and a hole was cut out to fit over the carb and accept whatever interior detailing I decided to do.

While in the process of grinding and sanding the base, it became necessary to remove the original vacuum diaphragms, so the snorkels were drilled out to fit new ones.

The new diaphragms were just cut and shaped from styrene rod and inserted into the holes.

Next, the lid was cut from the second air cleaner and thinned.

I just kind of fell on the interior detail when I stumbled across a wheel hub from the AMT 1949 Ford kit that looked like it might work with a little refinement.

It was drilled, ground, filed and sanded into submission until it fit acceptably over the carb and into the air cleaner body.

Finally, the air cleaner element was modified from the open element air cleaner from the AMT "Old Pro" '72 Nova kit.

I was drilled out and filed and sanded to fit the body.

 

I think it will be kind of fun to have a removable air cleaner with a separate lid and air cleaner element to afford different options for display.

Especially since I will have some wonderful air cleaner decals provided by Bob Spedding to proudly display as well! ;)

Thanks again Bob!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

I just love these kinds of details! This and your seat back tilt latch buttons are super cool! Beautifully executed!

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