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AMT 1966 442 Convert.


ewetwo

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3 hours ago, ewetwo said:

I don't know Wayne. I'm just winging it. LOL! I use to just build the models when I was a kid.  Never spray painted them but I did one with regular black spray paint. !950 Ford. Came out awful so I never painted anything. Plus we didn't have the money. I bought the kits I had from my paper route with took weeks before you had enough money to buy another kit. I read and read here in the forum and there are so many different opinions, it gets confusing. And this special ordered can of paint does not say what kid of paint it is. And the store is new and the people working there couldn't answer that question. 

Don't worry about it David.

Nobody can expect to know everything.

That's why we are all here....to help.

 

If the guys at the paint store can't even tell you what type of paint you are getting, I think that I would go another route.

Seriously, give MCW a try.

 

And no, there is no reason to wait that long between coats, but it should have no impact whatsoever on how the finish turns out.

At least if you're using typical spray paint, regardless of the type.

 

There is quite a learning curve to painting.

All that you can do is ask for advice and try different techniques and materials.

I've been painting model cars for nearly 50 years and I still have issues occasionally, and almost never end up with a perfect paint job.

 

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Don't worry about it David.

Nobody can expect to know everything.

That's why we are all here....to help.

 

If the guys at the paint store can't even tell you what type of paint you are getting, I think that I would go another route.

Seriously, give MCW a try.

 

And no, there is no reason to wait that long between coats, but it should have no impact whatsoever on how the finish turns out.

At least if you're using typical spray paint, regardless of the type.

 

There is quite a learning curve to painting.

All that you can do is ask for advice and try different techniques and materials.

I've been painting model cars for nearly 50 years and I still have issues occasionally, and almost never end up with a perfect paint job.

 

 

Steve

I am going to give MCW a try. With what I have. I figure I’ll try that one again but give a lot of light coats. So it doesn’t start pooling. But primer first. ?

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2 hours ago, ewetwo said:

I am going to give MCW a try. With what I have. I figure I’ll try that one again but give a lot of light coats. So it doesn’t start pooling. But primer first. ?

You didn't prime first?

That's a large part of the problem right there.

You're very lucky that you did not destroy the plastic.

 

 

Steve

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8 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You didn't prime first?

That's a large part of the problem right there.

You're very lucky that you did not destroy the plastic.

 

 

Steve

No Steve. First step is Primer. Always. What you use. Duplicolor sandable primer. :-)

Edited by ewetwo
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2 hours ago, ewetwo said:

No Steve. First step is Primer. Always. What you use. Duplicolor sandable primer. ?

Okay, I guess that I misunderstood.

 

I've also been using a lot of Duplicolor "Primer/Sealer".

Seems to help with sealing things up nicely, and it's a lighter color of gray than the gray sandable primer, which is a plus for lighter paint colors.

 

 

Steve

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I’ve been to all my nearest auto parts stores and I’ve only seen the Duplicolor sandable primer here. I thought I read there was a white Duplicolor primer also which I’ve looked for thinking that would be great for colored plastic kits.

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4 hours ago, ewetwo said:

I’ve been to all my nearest auto parts stores and I’ve only seen the Duplicolor sandable primer here. I thought I read there was a white Duplicolor primer also which I’ve looked for thinking that would be great for colored plastic kits.

They carry at least gray, black, white and red oxide in their sandable primer line.

 

I buy mine at O'Reilly auto parts.

 

 

Steve

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1 hour ago, ewetwo said:

That's where I bought my last can of primer plus the 3 cans of special mix. I only saw the sandable but will ask the next time I go in.

I suppose like everything else, individual stores carry different items according to demand and space.

But I'll bet they would get it for you if you asked.

Either that or you can always order online.

 

 

Steve

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  • 4 weeks later...
2 hours ago, ewetwo said:

Well the Cutlass has been primed for over a week and I figure it's time to try the paint again. If it's lacquer paint. I should just keep giving it light coats but one right after the other? Wait maybe4 minuted between coats? 

I usually will use very light coats to start.

Light coats for the first couple, and then a little wetter for the last couple.

 

There are really no rules for the most part for re-coat windows with the majority of paints, but I find it to my advantage to wait over night between coats.

Each successive coat, if fully cured, will act as an added barrier to the next to help protect against possible crazing issues.

If you re-coat too quickly, the previous coat has not had time to cure and the solvents in the next coats will eat down into the previous, especially if you are increasing the volume of paint that you are applying as you move forward with successive coats.

 

I kind of think of it like painting a wall in your home.

You never try to apply another coat over paint that is not already completely dry.

 

 

 

Steve

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Sometimes, it's like throwing dice. You don'e know what will turn up. I've used the directions on the cans before, only to end up dunking the project in the purple pond! At times, I have used my own willy-nilly method and it came out looking pretty good!!

Trial, and error!!

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