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Bonneville to Parisienne


Anglia105E

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Probably the two easiest ways to produce Parissienne scripts:

1. Locate a photo of a 1967-'68 model online, as I seem to remember the typeface for the two model years was the same.

2. Using your software, edit out the background so all you have is the lettering.

3. Either print some decals or make some photo-etch using your artwork.

Charlie Larkin

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15 minutes ago, charlie8575 said:

Probably the two easiest ways to produce Parissienne scripts:

1. Locate a photo of a 1967-'68 model online, as I seem to remember the typeface for the two model years was the same.

2. Using your software, edit out the background so all you have is the lettering.

3. Either print some decals or make some photo-etch using your artwork.

Charlie Larkin

That is really useful, thanks for taking the time to suggest this method, Charlie....... and it could be the easiest way to produce the Parisienne scripts. I will certainly give it a go....

David

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1 hour ago, Tom Geiger said:

Easiest method would be to find the script on line and resize it to the correct size.  Then have someone with an Alps printer create them in silver ink.  There are a number of folks here on the board with Alps, and if asked, someone might volunteer.

Okay, Tom...... I will keep the Alps printer option in mind, as well as the other options....... a local model builder suggested that I apply slow drying epoxy resin to the model car body, and then carefully produce each script by hand. The method suggested by Charlie Larkin appeals to me more than the epoxy resin approach, and your idea to print in silver ink with an Alps printer appeals to me even more, actually. The process of hand scripting worries me a bit, and I am not sure that I could make a half decent job of it. I like the Alps printer silver ink option the best.

David

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This is the paint test, using the Buick Cameo Cream from rattle can........ Having masked off the rest of the body, I then applied one coat of the Cameo Cream over the white primer base coat, and the result looks reasonably good. There will be two coats of this paint colour applied to the whole of the body, apart from the roof. The topcoat will need a gloss shine to finish, and polishing with Meguiars Carnauba Wax.

The two seams of the vinyl roof show up more clearly in these photos.

David

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Three photos here...... showing exhaust system painting, which will have further detailing added later of course, then a graduated windshield tint test and thirdly, an image file for the Parisienne script. The green windshield test is the very first attempt, using Sap Green acrylic paint thinned heavily with water. Due to the acetate windshield as included with the resin kit being badly distorted, the acrylic green wash hasn't formed an evenly proportioned band at the bottom, which then becomes the top of the windshield.  This method could work, with a little more practice! The windscreen part that I shall be using for the actual build is from the '70 Bonneville kit.

The ' Parisienne ' script when this file is resized to 8% comes out very small, at 10 mm in width by 2.6 mm in height. The option to scribe this out by hand from slow curing epoxy resin does not give me much optimism, so I was wondering if any fellow MCM Forum members that have an ALPS printer might consider printing half a dozen copies of the small ' Parisienne ' scripts in silver ink, for which I am happy to pay a mutually acceptable amount of dollars? Not sure if the blue background to my image would be a problem for the print process. The decal or script has to be 10 mm in width in order to fit nicely onto the rear fender ( wing ).

David

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Here are a few photos to show the Parisienne body, the rolling chassis, the exhaust system with rear axle and propshaft,  and also the graduated green windshield tint test......... as can be seen, I am taking my time over this build, so progress is ' steady ' .........

David

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Exhaust system and rear axle assembly is fitted to the chassis, and generally seems to be positioned correctly, apart from one of the front pipes being slight out of line..... ? Not sure if this is something that needs correcting.

The tailpipes for the exhaust finished well short of the rear end of the car, as supplied with the resin kit, so I have added 15 mm extensions to both tailpipes..... these are made from cotton bud stalks, which is the plastic material that I use when building Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud's.

Parts of the chassis components and also the inner hubs are painted with Vallejo Glossy Black acrylic. The body fitting to the chassis is a mock up only.

David

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On 11/7/2019 at 1:45 PM, Anglia105E said:

This is the paint test, using the Buick Cameo Cream from rattle can........ Having masked off the rest of the body, I then applied one coat of the Cameo Cream over the white primer base coat, and the result looks reasonably good. There will be two coats of this paint colour applied to the whole of the body, apart from the roof. The topcoat will need a gloss shine to finish, and polishing with Meguiars Carnauba Wax.

The two seams of the vinyl roof show up more clearly in these photos.

David

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This is really quite telling of how big this car was...or how small English ones were. Or both.

Charlie Larkin

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1 hour ago, charlie8575 said:

This is really quite telling of how big this car was...or how small English ones were. Or both.

Charlie Larkin

Oops, sorry, Charlie...... the last photo of the Parisienne body is taken directly in front of my 1:43 scale diorama, so the Rolls-Royce and Jaguar model cars are of the smaller scale. The Pontiac is 1:25 scale, as you know. The Parisienne that I enjoyed owning and driving was 18 feet in length, so you are correct, this was a BIG car.

David

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The front grille parts for the Parisienne arrived in the post from Australia this morning, thanks to a kind fellow MCM Forums member, Alan Barton.....

With a certain amount of modification, I should be to convert the front end of the '67 Bonneville to the '68 Parisienne, and then body painting can begin at last!

David

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They made it! 

When you think that these parts were made in Mt Clements Michigan, were then shipped to Sydney on the East coast of Australia, then trucked to Perth on the West Coast of Australia, where I bought the kit from K Mart as a 14 year old, then moved to the remote mining town of Paraburdoo for two years, approximately a 2000 mile return trip and then posted them to Britain a few weeks ago - these grilles have seen more of the world than some of us modellers!

Unfortunately for David, back in my  teen years, I thought the inner ends of the grilles could be cut off and turned into hod scoops!  Never did finish that project and I am convinced I still have the ends somewhere but they haven't turned up yet.  I will keep looking!  As they are, they would have stayed in my stash until I clocked off so I am pleased that they are finally going on a Pontiac.

Good luck with your project David, I hope the grilles will help you reach your goals.

Cheers

Alan

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10 hours ago, alan barton said:

They made it! 

When you think that these parts were made in Mt Clements Michigan, were then shipped to Sydney on the East coast of Australia, then trucked to Perth on the West Coast of Australia, where I bought the kit from K Mart as a 14 year old, then moved to the remote mining town of Paraburdoo for two years, approximately a 2000 mile return trip and then posted them to Britain a few weeks ago - these grilles have seen more of the world than some of us modellers!

Unfortunately for David, back in my  teen years, I thought the inner ends of the grilles could be cut off and turned into hod scoops!  Never did finish that project and I am convinced I still have the ends somewhere but they haven't turned up yet.  I will keep looking!  As they are, they would have stayed in my stash until I clocked off so I am pleased that they are finally going on a Pontiac.

Good luck with your project David, I hope the grilles will help you reach your goals.

Cheers

Alan

What an incredible trip these parts of yours have made, Alan...... twice around the World is some journey!

I am determined to build this Parisienne as well as I possibly can, and I am really enjoying this stage of the build...... the front end conversion is probably the most important part of the process. This morning I am paying close attention to my reference photographs, before modifying the front edge of the bonnet ( hood ).

Here's a few more photos of work that I carried out late last night..... burning the midnight oil..... and beyond.

David

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6 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

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Here's a '67, '68 and '69 set.  You are attempting the most ambitious conversion from '67 to '68.  

Great photo of the '67, '68 and '69 set, Tom..... I like all three of those model cars. Did you build and paint those three cars yourself?

I can see the difference very clearly between the front edge of the hood on the '68 car and the '67 car in your photo..... this is helping me to understand what needs to be done.

Few more photos of last night's build progress.

David

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1 hour ago, sfhess said:

Those well-traveled grille pieces are from a 69 Bonneville.......

They are indeed, Scott..... and I noticed that the round headlamps have square-ish bezels to them..... Other than that minor difference, they are suitable for a '68 Parisienne. Certainly they are preferable to the '70 Bonneville, and definitely not '67 Bonneville.

David

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While test fitting the rolling chassis to the body of the Parisienne, and also test fitting the interior tub, I noticed what a good fit this is..... the front, rear and sides of the chassis sit nicely against the front panel, rear panel and sills. The road wheels and axles are positioned correctly and the car stands well on the tyres.
With the interior tub mounted inside the body shell, the chassis lines up precisely with the body.
I am using Revell Plasto model putty to fill in the front end of the model, which is intended for polystyrene and wood, but I am assuming it will be okay with resin. Some forum articles say that the Plasto eats plastic if applied in too large amounts, and they suggested Milliput as a safer alternative. Here are a few further photos of the test fitting ( sorry if there are too many, but got carried away! )
 
David

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2 hours ago, Anglia105E said:
I am using Revell Plasto model putty to fill in the front end of the model, which is intended for polystyrene and wood, but I am assuming it will be okay with resin. Some forum articles say that the Plasto eats plastic if applied in too large amounts, and they suggested Milliput as a safer alternative. 

Before using putty, try to fill as much of the gap with plastic.  As with all putties,  apply it in multiple thin coats.  Let it dry between coats. Where it gets wonky is when you put on too much and it takes forever, if ever, to dry.   Good luck, things are coming right along!

Edited by Tom Geiger
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6 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

I just found this thread. I love your project. My question to you is, are you happy with the mag/rims you have? If you want actual Pontiac Rally IIs I would be willing to mail you a set for free.

Thank you, Bill....... and although the wheels were the best I could find, coming out of a '70 Bonneville kit box, I would really like to get my hands on some Pontiac Rally II's....... as long as it would be no trouble for you to mail me a set of these rims, I would appreciate your gesture very much, Bill....... several members here on MCM forums have kindly sent me small parts in the post for this build project, from as far away as Australia, USA and Canada. The resin kit that I am working with was shipped over to England from Chicago and it is a nicely cast body with everything fitting well. Glad you like the work in progress so far.

Many thanks.......... David

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10 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Before using putty, try to fill as much of the gap with plastic.  As with all putties,  apply it in multiple thin coats.  Let it dry between coats. Where it gets wonky is when you put on too much and it takes forever, if ever, to dry.   Good luck, things are coming right along!

Thanks, Tom...... and I have to hold up my hands and admit to applying the putty before I saw your reply to my post. The Revell Plasto is a product that I haven't used previously, and I must say that I am impressed with this filler material. I did stuff it into the gaps ( no plastic beforehand ) and it seemed to fill nicely. The drying time is quoted as being one hour, but I allowed 6 hours before filing the filler down. It was easy to shape, and has a smooth surface for painting. Today I shall see how the body looks after applying one or two coats of Buick Cameo Cream topcoat, while paying particular attention to the front end of the car.

David

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