crossfire 2004 Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 This roadster is an amalgamation of Revell ‘32 parts. The body is from the David Stacey Rat Rod with the louvered deck lid from a ‘31 I think & the upper cowl from the phantom vicki grafted on to accept the Duvall screen frame. The chassis and fenders are from the sedan and the interior is also from the Rat Rod. Paint is GM Blaze Orange, just final assembly and small detail parts to complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mod3l Lover Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 I have wanted to do that with the Phantom Vicky kit myself for quite a while! Nicely done Stuart!!! You made it look pretty easy the way you did it also! David S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 Very nice. I like pretty much everything about it, except perhaps the front wheels, but to each their own. The Phantom Vicky is a very good source for a whole bunch of cool parts. I've used the cowl/windshield transplant on a few projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 On 11/3/2019 at 8:51 PM, mrm said: Very nice. I like pretty much everything about it, except perhaps the front wheels, but to each their own. The Phantom Vicky is a very good source for a whole bunch of cool parts. I've used the cowl/windshield transplant on a few projects. Hi! Nice combo! To Michael's point... the Vicky is a goldmine of parts. I must have 5 or 6 in my stash. If you happen to find one of the "pre-decorated" editions... they are usually dirt-cheap! CT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossfire 2004 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 5 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi! Nice combo! To Michael's point... the Vicky is a goldmine of parts. I must have 5 or 6 in my stash. If you happen to find one of the "pre-decorated" editions... they are usually dirt-cheap! CT I agree Claude, there are 4 of the Vicky kits in my stash - awful looking thing but a great source of parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koellefornia Kid Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 Great combination of parts! Like it very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) Nicely done, indeed! Good to see the Phantom Vicky cowl graft while still under construction. Amazingly good fit! The hood graft is virtually the one remaining parts use from this gold mine of a parts kit I hadn't gotten a round to. Like you all, I have several of the pre-paints in my stash. For a while you could pick 'em up, brand new and unstarted, for less than 10 bucks... Those days are gone now, but it's still a treasure trove of superb stuff. Edited November 5, 2019 by Bernard Kron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Metallic Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 I'm digging this a lot. Has a Doyle Gammell 32 feel to it with the tank up front and meaty tires out back. And I actually like the 12 spokes in this application, compliments the overall drag car feel. And good choice using the Rat ROASTER body when using fenders. The original tooling Revell roadster body didn't fit the fender unit very well because the distance from the front of the cowl to the rear wheel opening was off side to side. When Revell tooled up this new body for the Rat Roaster they appear to have fixed that issue, or at least made it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossfire 2004 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 Thanks for the thumbs up regarding the 12 spokes Craig , they were never in doubt for me , besides they are attached now ! I found that the RR interior was too deep when used with the full fender option & had to remove about 3mm from the bottom of the sides and rear panel to allow the body to sit flush . Just a few odds bits to complete now , look out for it ‘Under Glass’ in a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 Looks really good. Just a heads up, the roadster body you are using has issues sitting on the fenders. Ii creates a gap around the rear fenders and the body. I found out the hard way on a build that as very similar to yours, but with a different flavor. I used the same body and fenders with the same cowl and windshield grafted on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 7 minutes ago, mrm said: Looks really good. Just a heads up, the roadster body you are using has issues sitting on the fenders. Ii creates a gap around the rear fenders and the body. I found out the hard way on a build that as very similar to yours, but with a different flavor. I used the same body and fenders with the same cowl and windshield grafted on. WoW! Superb flame job. A dead ringer for an Alloway car, World class. Bravo! CT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 10 minutes ago, Claude Thibodeau said: WoW! Superb flame job. A dead ringer for an Alloway car, World class. Bravo! CT Thank you. An Alloway car was the inspiration. The flamejob was an experiment, which left me with a lot to be desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 4 minutes ago, mrm said: Thank you. An Alloway car was the inspiration. The flamejob was an experiment, which left me with a lot to be desired. If you used a mask (like Lazy Modeler's), laying it out without kinks is a chore, more so on the front fenders crown.... But your paint nuances are great. CT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 33 minutes ago, Claude Thibodeau said: If you used a mask (like Lazy Modeler's), laying it out without kinks is a chore, more so on the front fenders crown.... But your paint nuances are great. CT No mask used. It was laid freehand, using bare metal foil as masking material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossfire 2004 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 1 hour ago, mrm said: Looks really good. Just a heads up, the roadster body you are using has issues sitting on the fenders. Ii creates a gap around the rear fenders and the body. I found out the hard way on a build that as very similar to yours, but with a different flavor. I used the same body and fenders with the same cowl and windshield grafted on. You are quite right Michael about the gap around the rear fenders, I have done my best to correct this issue with some success but it’s not perfect. Your roadster is terrific, the flame job is a true work of art. I always think a ‘32’s look odd without a spreader bar, the empty space in front of the grille shell needs something in my eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) 12 minutes ago, crossfire 2004 said: You are quite right Michael about the gap around the rear fenders, I have done my best to correct this issue with some success but it’s not perfect. Your roadster is terrific, the flame job is a true work of art. I always think a ‘32’s look odd without a spreader bar, the empty space in front of the grille shell needs something in my eyes. Thank you for the kind words. I agree with you on the spreader bar. I just wanted to try something different. I also used the frame from the Vicky, but with a dropped axle in the front and scratchbuilt rear suspension. The IFS in the Vicky is great for fendered rods. The IFS in the T-Touring is better for fenderless rods. Yet they were offered exactly the opposite, which I never understood. I might be in the minority here, but I believe it is about time a modern, high tech, fully independent suspension, front and rear, be offered in model form for the ‘28-‘34 Fords. Or at least swap that old, tired, plain Jane 9” Ford for a quickchange. Edited November 5, 2019 by mrm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 4 hours ago, mrm said: No mask used. It was laid freehand, using bare metal foil as masking material. I see. Then, I'm even MORE impressed. They flow like the best pros can achieve... Bravo again! CT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Claude Thibodeau said: I see. Then, I'm even MORE impressed. They flow like the best pros can achieve... Bravo again! CT Thanks again. I have to dig up the model and take some pictures as it belongs in “Under Glass”. I think tho, we should stop talking about my model in someone else’s thread. I don’t want anyone feeling like I’m hi jacking their thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 10 hours ago, mrm said: Thanks again. I have to dig up the model and take some pictures as it belongs in “Under Glass”. I think tho, we should stop talking about my model in someone else’s thread. I don’t want anyone feeling like I’m hi jacking their thread. Michael, you are right. Case closed! CT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 I like how you have blended so many different bits from several different kits to create the body. As others have mentioned the fender and body gap, is there any way to remove some material in an unseen area to better lower the body on the fenders ? This may also improve the alignment of the body molding between the hood and the body. great looking paint color and finish. Where did you source the air cleaners ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossfire 2004 Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 I’ve no problem with Michael showing his version of the roadster on this thread, it's great to see how other builders tackle the problems that I have encountered. David, the panel gaps are not as bad as they seem, the car was only mocked up for the pictures. The twin air cleaners are from the AMT Silhouette show car. Progress took a step back last night when fitting the hoses, I found the radiator was for a flathead - after it was fitted. Only noticed when I found 2 top hose outlets ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 The problem with the roadster body over fenders is the shape of the curve. The curve of the fenders and that of the wheel-wells on the body are not perfect circle. And they match on both parts, but only at a certain angle. So when you test fit and just mock up your model, everything seems to be fine. But once painted, if you want the firewall to sit down on the frame (or in my case I like just the front of my body to be a touch channeled) it rotates the rear opening just enough to misalign the curve of the rear fender and the opening on the body. Basically, the forward bottom edge of body''s wheel-well pushes against the fender and opens a gap on top, because the the whole body does not sit as low as it should. If you sand that edge to allow the body to go down, you can take away the little molding that runs on the edge of the body. When I was building my model, during test fitting everything seemed fine. When everything was painted and final assembly started, the body just didn't want to sit all the way down. I had to literally force glue it with 5 min epoxy and there till is a gap (altho much smaller now), which almost ruins the model for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 Wow, I thought it was just me!!! How many times does that happen when you bring the fenders and body of a pre-48 together? AMT 40 fords are shocker for it. My Revell 37 Delivery - I never did get the hood , fenders and cowl to match up just right but it never showed up while I was test fitting! I just finished a rough old AMT 32 roadster that I did as a 3 window coupe based on a Tim Boyd article in Street Rodder magazine and I suffered from the same gap you got here. Just drives you crazy! I am currently close to finishing a long term project in the form of a tribute build of the Buttera 29 roadster, the white one. Even with everything pinned, I keep seeing the gaps changing. Yep, I feel your pain and I guess most other hot rod modellers do as well. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 But getting back to Stuarts roadster, if that thing was any tougher it would rust! This is very inspirational because I have an unbuilt Phantom Vicky in the stash as well as a built one on the shelf so I could see producing a model inspired by yours and then swapping the stock cowl and windshield back onto the donor Vicky for a totally different look. Your wheel and tyre selection is to die for - man, that is an evil looking roadster. This is a look you would normally associate with a 3 window but it just flat works for me. Thanks for sharing! Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crossfire 2004 Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 Thanks for the input guys, the finished build is now ‘Under Glass’. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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