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tim boyd

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2 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said:

I have a sinking feeling that Revell salvaged what they could from the two sets of wrecked molds and combined the '30 and '29 parts into one release. I hope I'm wrong.... -RRR

There is only one set of tools, parts of it are used for both kits and parts of it are unique to the roadster and coupe versions....TIM 

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My guess is that Blitz/Revell has a stack of paid for, new tooling for these iconic Street Rod Fords. The have a long life as a Money Printing Machine, after the bugs (of whatever variety) have been worked out. Sooner or later, all versions will be released. But, in what order, and in what permutations? I have no clue.

If Blitz/Revell is like  most companies, they are as anxious to get the product on the shelf and making money, as you are to buy it. So my last thought is this.

"Patience, Grasshopper" We will see them when they get here.   My only other suggestion would be, if you fear that you'll never see them again, purchase a whole case of them, just to be safe.

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On 11/13/2019 at 3:53 AM, DukeE said:

I never had the original issue roadster, gone before I got one, as was the coupe. The test shot headlights seem awfully googly-eyed/huge/outboard than I remember though. Doesn't even match box art drawing. Are there smaller headlights? Or was the original this way? I looked at Tim's site way back, but it's not what I recall. 

OK, just read Tim's review again. It has a set of smaller HL like the 32's. But still, the mounting looks odd to me. Original box art that way too I guess. Lots of parts, looking forward to getting one. 

Duke, I have built two of these roadsters, on here somewhere, and you are absolutely correct about the headlight posts looking goofy.  However, it is a fairly simple if not a little fiddly fix. You take a small, square file, and file the chassis mounting notch back on those posts as far as you dare, and upwards a bit as well.  That's all it takes and it makes a big difference.

While you are at it, you need to get a coarse file and file the back of the lower surface of the Model A grille. to paper thin.  The limitations of plastic moulding means that the grille is over an inch thick if it were scaled to full size and that pushes  it way too far forward.. Probably wouldn't hurt to give the front surface of the crossmember a shave as well!

If you use the headlight posts from the kit, modified or not, you really need to use the smallest of the three headlight options.  All the lights and lens are beautifully moulded and very useful but IMHO way too big for a Model A hiboy.

Hope that helps

Cheers

Alan

Edited by alan barton
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11 hours ago, alan barton said:

Duke, I have built two of these roadsters, on here somewhere, and you are absolutely correct about the headlight posts looking goofy...

For anyone thinking of building an ICM 1912 Model T, those kits have a similar problem.  The headlight posts are nicely done and in scale. Which means there are only TINY gluing surfaces for the posts, located in a very hard-to-reach spot under and behind the radiator. The instructions tell you to glue the posts on early in the build.

But the posts need to be painted brass, nearly impossible once they're glued in.  And they're flimsy, so almost guaranteed to break if you follow the instructions and add them early. They also must be aligned perfectly, or they'll have the Goofy-Eyed Look with the headlights pointing in different directions.

I'll probably attach the headlight posts last. Maybe using 5-minute epoxy to glue on the posts and let them dry very hard, making sure they're aligned. Then hopefully slip the headlights onto the 2 tiny mounting pins on the post.  

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/8/2020 at 9:11 AM, Mike999 said:

For anyone thinking of building an ICM 1912 Model T, those kits have a similar problem.  The headlight posts are nicely done and in scale. Which means there are only TINY gluing surfaces for the posts, located in a very hard-to-reach spot under and behind the radiator. The instructions tell you to glue the posts on early in the build.

But the posts need to be painted brass, nearly impossible once they're glued in.  And they're flimsy, so almost guaranteed to break if you follow the instructions and add them early. They also must be aligned perfectly, or they'll have the Goofy-Eyed Look with the headlights pointing in different directions.

I'll probably attach the headlight posts last. Maybe using 5-minute epoxy to glue on the posts and let them dry very hard, making sure they're aligned. Then hopefully slip the headlights onto the 2 tiny mounting pins on the post.  

 

Actually,  no. The posts should be the same color as the chassis.  Have a look at an original '13 sans headlamps. Hope this helps some people 

20190702_233218-1008x756.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Eric Macleod said:

Actually,  no. The posts should be the same color as the chassis.  Have a look at an original '13 sans headlamps. Hope this helps some people 

Thanks, you're right!  The ICM instructions are WRONG, and tell us to paint those headlamp brackets "Bright Brass."  

That's not the only problem I'm having with that kit, and I almost Godzilla'ed it tonight.  It has some real "chicken or egg" puzzlers when it comes to building and painting.  It would be easier to build by not painting anything first.  But then you have the problem of getting into some really tight places to paint.  It will help in places if you stand on your head, and grow another pair of hands.

Many gluing surfaces on major assemblies are very small.  The 2 sides of the hood are "handed" and will only work one way, but you can barely see the tiny indent that glues to the hood former. My hood hinge was too long. Etc. Etc.

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1 hour ago, Mike999 said:

Thanks, you're right!  The ICM instructions are WRONG, and tell us to paint those headlamp brackets "Bright Brass."  

That's not the only problem I'm having with that kit, and I almost Godzilla'ed it tonight.  It has some real "chicken or egg" puzzlers when it comes to building and painting.  It would be easier to build by not painting anything first.  But then you have the problem of getting into some really tight places to paint.  It will help in places if you stand on your head, and grow another pair of hands.

Many gluing surfaces on major assemblies are very small.  The 2 sides of the hood are "handed" and will only work one way, but you can barely see the tiny indent that glues to the hood former. My hood hinge was too long. Etc. Etc.

I have that kit on the bench myself right now. It hss some VERY difficult things to assemble.  It kind of makes you appreciate how easy it is to assemble the AMT version.

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9 hours ago, Chuck Kourouklis said:

Fwiw - and maybe this varies from body style to body style - but for needing a different order to install the engine than what the instructions mandated, mine went together precisely and without much difficulty.

That looks great and I hate you! ? Nice trick of installing the hood hinge, so the hood is removable. 

I deviated from the instructions in several places, which may have got me in trouble.  I carefully scraped the paint off the attachment points for the front axle to fenders before gluing it. But then I had to adjust other parts, and the axle fell off. Twice.  Last night I glued it with 2-part clear epoxy, clamped it and left it to dry overnight. I'll be going down to the shop soon, to see if that worked.  Or if I have to Godzilla it...

 

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16 hours ago, DukeE said:

Nice build Chuck :)  Needs a Fronty. All up with motor. 

 

7 hours ago, Mike999 said:

That looks great and I hate you! ? Nice trick of installing the hood hinge, so the hood is removable. 

I deviated from the instructions in several places, which may have got me in trouble.  I carefully scraped the paint off the attachment points for the front axle to fenders before gluing it. But then I had to adjust other parts, and the axle fell off. Twice.  Last night I glued it with 2-part clear epoxy, clamped it and left it to dry overnight. I'll be going down to the shop soon, to see if that worked.  Or if I have to Godzilla it...

 

Thanks, Gents!  Yeah, Mike, there's a much simpler way to handle the engine, though I'd need to dig out the review to refresh myself.

FRONTY.  Well, I do have the speedster...

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20 hours ago, Chuck Kourouklis said:

 

Thanks, Gents!  Yeah, Mike, there's a much simpler way to handle the engine, though I'd need to dig out the review to refresh myself.

FRONTY.  Well, I do have the speedster...

I agree with the others. You have done a very fine job with a very challenging kit. Thankfully the 1:1 version goes together easier than the model.

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