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1967 Shelby Mustang GT500 “Eleanor”


adamelvis

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  • 3 weeks later...

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Looking for ways to add more detail to the dashboard. In figure A, I have added aluminum rings to enhance the bezels. 
In figure B, there are no aluminum rings. 
I have also added BMF to the tach & speedo gauges, which is noticeable from a side angle and top view. 

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Time to fasten up !

I have added the leather patch under the buckle to simulate what the racing harnesses had in the late 60’s. These belts were the quick fastener type, but this kit came with the PE ones you see above. Ordering ones online would have cost too much and take too long to arrive, currently.

Edited by adamelvis
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Well, over the last few days, this was nagging me in the back of my mind. I always try to add the most (correct) detail that I can to my builds. The “B” seatbelts have been re-done and look more like the 60’s style quick-release racing seatbelts. The “A” seatbelts just ended up looking too stock. I will take them off and use them for the backseat. 
The picture below is what I used for reference and I have done a side by side comparison.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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The aftermarket pedals I was going to use did not have the same hole pattern as the one on the Eleanor Mustang that I was using as reference. So, I made my own from some embossing foil and drilled out the correct hole pattern. I also trimmed down the foot pedal bars to almost half the thickness.

The pic below shows the comparison.

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Edited by adamelvis
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EVOLUTION OF THE WHEEL .. !


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This Scale Productions transkit had a aluminum steering wheel, which I believed was cast from an earlier Revell AC Cobra kit. 
It was a nice upgrade, however, the one used for the Eleanor car was similar to the Shelby Cobra steering wheel, but was manufactured by the aftermarket company Lecarra. This was a 15” diameter 2-piece wooden steering wheel and it had a 9 bolt pattern around the center cap.

I tried to modify the steering wheel and the finished result has a scratch built center cap from aluminum sheet and the painted wood grain is separated in the middle to expose the metal.

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The turning signal lever was upgraded and replaced with a thin rod. I had dabbed a little glue on the end and let it harden. Repeated 3x and then painted over with silver. 
These little small things are the easiest to do and they bring more realism to your builds. 

TCB,

Adam

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I had scratch built the shift-lite and reset button from a small piece of styrene. Drilled two small holes and glued in a small piece of metal rod, painted black and the other I used transparent yellow for the light.

Below is the final result and the completed dashboard.
 

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Edited by adamelvis
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  • 4 months later...

Sorry for the long hiatus. The summer months and family took up most of my time. 
Also, ran into a huge problem when the front horizontal bar separating the top and bottom grills, broke off in 2 pieces. 
Took me multiple tries to scratch build a new piece with the correct positioning for  the fog lights. Here is the result. 
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Front end fab work is 90% complete.  Can’t wait to get this body all sanded and primed. 
My Eleanor has been a stubborn girl ….. LOL.
 

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