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Paint Stands


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3 hours ago, deuces wild said:

An empty paint can will work with a piece of looped masking tape on the cap....

Cheap and easy.... ?

I've done that exact thing for years! I quit using spray cans and went to perrier bottles which are glass so they stand nicely on their own and the necks are tapered with a cap around the size of a nickel. Smaller parts like hoods can be attached and most of the underside can be painted as well.

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1 hour ago, SoDak1 said:

I've done that exact thing for years! I quit using spray cans and went to perrier bottles which are glass so they stand nicely on their own and the necks are tapered with a cap around the size of a nickel. Smaller parts like hoods can be attached and most of the underside can be painted as well.

I like to use a couple of single-use water bottles. I put some water in them for stability and the really nice thing about them is I can squeeze them a bit and put the lid on so that they fit inside narrow bodies. 

I'm very cheap... ;)

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Tamiya paint stands , worth every penny, the box comes with one stand for bodies and one stand for parts, great deal.

I use both Tamiya paint stands(4) and empty paint cans with tape on top, I prefer to use Tamiya's primer cans, being a little taller I find it easier to handle.

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16 hours ago, restoman said:

I like to use a couple of single-use water bottles. I put some water in them for stability and the really nice thing about them is I can squeeze them a bit and put the lid on so that they fit inside narrow bodies. 

I'm very cheap... ;)

I started out with this method but made some stands using small round PVC with a PVC cap on the end. The stand is glued to a piece of 2x4. I use double sided tape to hold the part to the stand.

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1 hour ago, cobraman said:

I still use a coat hanger most of the time. Reason is so I can hang the body upside down. Dust can be a problem here in Arizona and I find I have less "junk" getting in my paint when I do.

I don't hang them upside down, I just figure that my money can be better spent on other more urgent hobby needs, and my modeling time is too valuable to me to spend it building a paint stand.

Why fix it if it ain't broke. :P

 

 

Steve

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8 hours ago, Miatatom said:

I started out with this method but made some stands using small round PVC with a PVC cap on the end. The stand is glued to a piece of 2x4. I use double sided tape to hold the part to the stand.

I found the nice thing about the water bottles is that they are light and small enough to easily hold onto, and because they're round, rolling them in one hand for paint coverage is easy.

I do have a coat hanger stand that gets some good use, too.

... And, I'm cheap. 

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12 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Here is my home made one. It is a piece of 1x4 wood with some coat hanger chunks bent and fastened on. The holes make it easier to hang on to.

 

Mine is very similar, but much simpler. I drilled 4 holes (two at each end) in the 1X4 just big enough for the coat hanger wire. I then bent the coat hanger wire in to a flat bottom U shape to fit through the holes and inserted them. Once the wires were fully inserted, I made sure the lengths were equal then I bent the top 1/4" or so of the wires to a 90 deg angle. There's about 5" from the 1X4 to the 90 deg bend.

It is very useful and can be adapted to many different models of different sizes, and very stable. I've used it by bending the wires for everything from Lego block sized items to 1/25 semi-trailer sized items and larger. If it is tall enough, I will often put the body on the top, and use masking tape to attach hoods, bumpers and splash pans to the legs. Every decade or two, I'll take a pair of pliers and remove the paint build up.

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6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I have been using this exact same coat hanger for at least 10 years now.

I used to use the exact same configuration for years Steve.....till I lost a fresh painted body to gravity.....built this & never had anything move...the tips are sharpened to grip inside the body....rotates ,inverts & docks easily

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1 hour ago, Khils said:

I used to use the exact same configuration for years Steve.....till I lost a fresh painted body to gravity.....built this & never had anything move...the tips are sharpened to grip inside the body....rotates ,inverts & docks easily

I tape the body to the hanger from the inside.

Haven't lost one in 50 years. :D

 

 

Steve

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Cheapskate Engineering Co.: scrap 1" x 4" cedar board, think it was a coat hanger, it does not tip over yet is light.  I was going to say I use it every time, but some projects don't work because of the body curve, or not big enough.

Typical operation:
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I've saved every big Testors paint bottle, good size and weight, rolled masking tape has always worked.
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This project I wanted something like a rotisserie, but didn't want to risk spinning, so made a wood base and crammed/glued baling wire into the sides, that goes into the wheel hub holes (Tamiya), easy to bend for adjustment.
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I use a variety of holders, tweezers, medical clamps, sprue, cloths pins, wood blocks.  Use cedar sticks, drill holes, little parts with pins are glued on with Titebond wood glue (mirrors for example).  My biggest problem is waiting long enough before touching again. ?

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13 hours ago, Khils said:

I used to use the exact same configuration for years Steve.....till I lost a fresh painted body to gravity.....built this & never had anything move...the tips are sharpened to grip inside the body....rotates ,inverts & docks easily

I like that setup!

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I still use my tried and true coat hanger. I tried many different methods of holding the body over the years, but found it was the coat hanger that worked the best for me. It is easy to handle the body when painting, ensuring good paint coverage in  the difficult, hidden areas that are hard to access.

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