64 Dodge D100 Pickup Pro Street

[mustang1989]

If you get this engine to fire up when you're done then I'm throwin' the friggin' towel in.

Excellent progress Francis.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

49 minutes ago, mustang1989 said:

If you get this engine to fire up when you're done then I'm throwin' the friggin' towel in.

Excellent progress Francis.

I think you watched too much movies... I love your comments anyway buddy... you keep me smiling!!!

I will post the pics with added details including the pressure plate release levers soon, thanks for your visit, it's always appreciated my friend.  Take care, Francis

[Mike Williams]

On 6/14/2020 at 3:54 PM, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Thanks Mike!  I also do think that even with the tremendous improvement of metalized paint options, it's hard to compete with parts made from real aluminum or brass.  The accuracy generated by the tooling itself (milling or lathe) is one thing but the material used bring the parts to another level in my humble opinion.

At the end, the goal is to have fun at the bench no matter the technique or the material used but I can guarantee you that I do have a lot of good time working on this project!

I have never worked on my models so late in the season but I will try to continue when the weather (bad...) allows it so I hope to keep you smiling sir...

Thanks again for your continuous support and take care of you.

Francis

Francis, yes!  This is exactly the point.  We modelers do not have to copy your methods to make excellent presentations.  Following through with your milling technique does not have to be a prerequisite for an exceptional model. 

We all see here on the forum, when a modeler adds a PE part to the motor, or perhaps a suspension unit in aluminum, immediately the unit has a deserved and different positive view.  This is the point!

With just a minimal effort, we can add so much more dimension to a kit model car.  Yes....your presentation shows very well the possibilities we can achieve.

Your excellence might open a new dimension for other modelers, I would hope so.  For my own possibilities, I would hope to find a better way to drill holes in butter soft aluminum....this is an issue that I have to fight.  T6 has helped already, thanks!

Have you found an affordable source for the numerous brass bolts needed?  As mentioned, I can only offer 0.6mm head size as a source.

Mike..

Edited June 15, 2020 by Mike Williams

[AmericanMuscleFan]

2 hours ago, Mike Williams said:

For my own possibilities, I would hope to find a better way to drill holes in butter soft aluminum....this is an issue that I have to fight.  T6 has helped already, thanks!

Have you found an affordable source for the numerous brass bolts needed?  As mentioned, I can only offer 0.6mm head size as a source.

Thanks again Mike!

When the time comes to drill holes, I usually make them using my milling column so they are perfectly straight and perpendicular.  For those that need to be drilled by hand, I usually drill the first hole using a smaller drill bit, then finish drilling with the required drill size.  Most of the time, the workpiece is quite thin (about 0.016" to 0.032") and I try to find the perfect balance between my fingers in order to be as perpendicular as possible.  I do not try to reinvent the wheel with this technique but I generally have acceptable results.

Speaking of brass bolts, I still use my usual suppliers but I found the site you indicated to me very interesting.  However, the method of payment to customers outside the country is not very user-friendly so my research is not yet finished...  Thanks for your help on this subject anyway, I appreciate it!

Francis

[Scott8950]

Do you have some sort of shrinking machine? This is some amazingly insane work! 

[CabDriver]

On 6/14/2020 at 9:54 AM, AmericanMuscleFan said:I also do think that even with the tremendous improvement of metalized paint options, it's hard to compete with parts made from real aluminum or brass. 

I agree 100%.  Even the best looking metalizer never QUITE looks like metal to me.  There’s a tonne of people whom I look up to who can lay down Alclads etc BEAUTIFULLY...but there really is nothing that looks like metal like metal.  Or wood, or rubber or....

Anyway, as always the updates here are a joy to behold!  Beautiful!

[AmericanMuscleFan]

15 hours ago, Scott8950 said:

Do you have some sort of shrinking machine? This is some amazingly insane work! 

Thank you so much for the kind words Scott!   Good idea, a shrinking machine would save me so much time... I have to do some research... lol.

Take care Francis

15 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I agree 100%.  Even the best looking metalizer never QUITE looks like metal to me.  There’s a tonne of people whom I look up to who can lay down Alclads etc BEAUTIFULLY...but there really is nothing that looks like metal like metal.  Or wood, or rubber or....

Anyway, as always the updates here are a joy to behold!  Beautiful!

Many thanks Jim!  As you mentioned, Alclad and Molotow are fantastic products when perfectly applied but the main issue IMHO is it's durability.  How many times I ruined a well "metallized" piece by handling it too much and having the finish worn or discolored.  I do think that both real aluminum and painted parts have their own applications but I will try to make them (those doable of course) with the real thing as much I can...  as long as my hands and eyes can...

Take care, Francis

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Hello everyone,

Final update on the pressure plate.  Nothing major (and mechanically logic) but I added the final touch without going crazy, this thing will be partially hidden inside the bellhousing.  I will move to the next and last parts for the drivetrain, the drive shaft, yokes and the U-joints.

The good weather seems to want to settle, so it could be that it takes me longer to update the next pics... we'll see... warmer and humid days are expected, maybe the colder temperature in the basement will become attractive...?

Take care, Francis

I made the release levers with 0.031" soft aluminum, bent and shaped by hand of course...  Aluminum bolts and nuts are from RB Motion.  I will add 6 other bolts to mount the part permantely on the flywhel (holes are done already).

[Nazz]

WOW!

[John Teresi]

Francis.....Unreal!!!......you are so talented .....thank you so much for sharing your work with us?

[landman]

On 6/16/2020 at 8:48 PM, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Hello everyone,

Final update on the pressure plate.  Nothing major (and mechanically logic) but I added the final touch without going crazy, this thing will be partially hidden inside the bellhousing.  I will move to the next and last parts for the drivetrain, the drive shaft, yokes and the U-joints.

The good weather seems to want to settle, so it could be that it takes me longer to update the next pics... we'll see... warmer and humid days are expected, maybe the colder temperature in the basement will become attractive...?

Take care, Francis

I made the release levers with 0.031" soft aluminum, bent and shaped by hand of course...  Aluminum bolts and nuts are from RB Motion.  I will add 6 other bolts to mount the part permantely on the flywhel (holes are done already).

Didn't know about RB Motion. Thank you.

[Codi]

Beautiful Francis.  All of it.  I've not seen in 1/25th such detail on a trans before.  You've really got the anodizing technique down pat.  You should try  Caswells Copy Chrome of Nickel finish over the teeth on your flywheel.  As well as you've mastered anodizing, you'd knock that down in no time.  Congrats!

[AmericanMuscleFan]

19 hours ago, Nazz said:

WOW!

Thanks Jerry you're always welcome in my build!

 

14 hours ago, John Teresi said:

Francis.....Unreal!!!......you are so talented .....thank you so much for sharing your work with us?

Thank you so much John!  Guys like you just fuel the fire with your talent and dedication for the hobby!  I'm so glad to see you here sir!!!

 

7 hours ago, landman said:

Didn't know about RB Motion. Thank you.

Hello Pat, The guy make several detailing items including nut, bolts among others. Not the cheapest but very useful and perfectly executed, the man is very reliable and pleasant to make business with!  Here is the HTML link: http://www.rbmotion.com/

[AmericanMuscleFan]

4 minutes ago, Codi said:

Beautiful Francis.  All of it.  I've not seen in 1/25th such detail on a trans before.  You've really got the anodizing technique down pat.  You should try  Caswells Copy Chrome of Nickel finish over the teeth on your flywheel.  As well as you've mastered anodizing, you'd knock that down in no time.  Congrats!

Thanks for the encouragement Tim!  Precisely, I received my order from Caswell a few days ago to make some Nickel plating.  I will certainly try it on the rearend components but I was dealing with the idea to keep the flywheel teeth a different color to simulate the hardening treatement like on the real one.  Should be black in color (I think...) but I'll think about that.  Thanks again sir, you're such an inspiration...   Take care, Francis

[Codi]

Hi Francis, did you order they're "blacken-it" solution?  Maybe that would give you the finish you're seeking.  I've used it on alum. and it works / replicates well.  Not sure if it works on brass however.  cheers

[AmericanMuscleFan]

8 hours ago, Codi said:

Hi Francis, did you order they're "blacken-it" solution?  Maybe that would give you the finish you're seeking.  I've used it on alum. and it works / replicates well.  Not sure if it works on brass however.  cheers

I only purchased the Nickel plating kit for brass as a first "try" of their products.  My goal was to have a reliable option to make machined and welded brass parts looks more like polished steel but not as shiny as a bumper if you know what I mean.  The kit is still sealed but I will eventually make a test to see the potential...  Thanks for the suggestion by the way, I'll look closely at this!  Francis

[Mike Williams]

Sensational modeling Francis...smiling again!  I haven't seen this aspect of detailing before, delicious!

Concerning blackening brass parts.  This will probably prove to be an issue in itself, I've had some success make brass "black".  What you have going for you is the fact that the area involved is relatively small, and that the teeth probably show a somewhat roughened up surface from cutting the teeth, of course when magnified.  This fact will prove to be your friend, as a rougher surface makes for an easier "blackening".  Just it will not become black, but dark brown with the solution that is regularly used in ancient ship building.

My first modeling love is not metal cars, but wooden historical sailing ships, big ones.  The last one on the bench, 3 feet long, I used brass sheet and rod for the elements securing the thick lines that support the masts to the sides of the wooden hull and on deck.  I did not paint anything on this model ship, all the metal used was stained, as well as all of the wood. 

A liquid is needed for this procedure, from an online ship building fellow.  With your allowance, I can post a few photos of the procedure.  Nothing needed other than a few small glass or ceramic trays.  The brass did not become black though, only dark brown.  I tried different bluing agents as used for gun barrels, also electro plating techniques.  The best I found was cheap, a simple solution. 

Also on YouTube, from Birchwood Casey, is a "Brass Black" solution that seems to work.  Their products are very good.

Mike..

 

Edited June 21, 2020 by Mike Williams

[MeatMan]

Stunning work!

[AmericanMuscleFan]

On 6/19/2020 at 4:41 PM, Mike Williams said:

Sensational modeling Francis...smiling again!  I haven't seen this aspect of detailing before, delicious!

Concerning blackening brass parts.  This will probably prove to be an issue in itself, I've had some success make brass "black".  What you have going for you is the fact that the area involved is relatively small, and that the teeth probably show a somewhat roughened up surface from cutting the teeth, of course when magnified.  This fact will prove to be your friend, as a rougher surface makes for an easier "blackening".  Just it will not become black, but dark brown with the solution that is regularly used in ancient ship building.

My first modeling love is not metal cars, but wooden historical sailing ships, big ones.  The last one on the bench, 3 feet long, I used brass sheet and rod for the elements securing the thick lines that support the masts to the sides of the wooden hull and on deck.  I did not paint anything on this model ship, all the metal used was stained, as well as all of the wood. 

A liquid is needed for this procedure, from an online ship building fellow.  With your allowance, I can post a few photos of the procedure.  Nothing needed other than a few small glass or ceramic trays.  The brass did not become black though, only dark brown.  I tried different bluing agents as used for gun barrels, also electro plating techniques.  The best I found was cheap, a simple solution. 

Also on YouTube, from Birchwood Casey, is a "Brass Black" solution that seems to work.  Their products are very good.

Mike..

 

Thanks Mike,

The technique you refer is absolutely fantastic and will produce exactly what I'm looking for!  The brass ring gear is already glued in place with epoxy (between the two thin aluminum flywheel faces) so I assume that the product wouldn't have any effect on them... I hope!?

I have already answered your PM so thank you again for your great contribution to my knowledge on the subject, it will be very useful in the future!

I'm planned to make more parts with brass so this technique would be a great way to add more color contrast on my builds, I will certainly make some research to find this product or the equivalent here in North America.

Take care, Francis

[AmericanMuscleFan]

On 6/20/2020 at 9:07 AM, MeatMan said:

Stunning work!

Thanks Dennis, you're more than welcome to my build anytime!  Take care, Francis

[comp1839]

looks great Francis! knocking it out of the park.

 

 

[Straightliner59]

Francis, I have an old bottle of stuff called "Blacken It" that is an etchant for brass, etc. Floquil used to make something called "Hobby Black" used for the same purpose. I think all of these products are essentially the same thing. I don't recall ever trying it on aluminum. This iis amazing work, you're doing, sir! A pleasure to see it coming together.

[AmericanMuscleFan]

6 hours ago, comp1839 said:

looks great Francis! knocking it out of the park.

Thanks Dave!  You're certainly not easy to impress so I'm honored you liked it!  Take care, Francis

[AmericanMuscleFan]

5 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Francis, I have an old bottle of stuff called "Blacken It" that is an etchant for brass, etc. Floquil used to make something called "Hobby Black" used for the same purpose. I think all of these products are essentially the same thing. I don't recall ever trying it on aluminum. This iis amazing work, you're doing, sir! A pleasure to see it coming together.

Thanks for the infos and kind comments Daniel!   I will definitely do some research to find this engraving agent and try it on some brass parts.

This build is progressing slooooooowly and the good weather will not increase the pace but I will inevitably arrive at the end someday... I hope!   Take care, Francis

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Francis!

Tremendous work, as usual!

I was browsing tru pictures on my computer, and I found this one from RAM 2019. You swept the first place in competition-drag with your Plymouth (left of picture), me 2nd with my Duster pro-mod, but alas, I can't remember the name of the gentleman who picked 3rd and is pictured between us... 

Just to wax nostalgia in this year of cancelled or postponed shows... 

CT