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64 Dodge D100 Pickup Pro Street

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Hello all, some new pictures for the thread.

Joe, Trevor, Håkan: Thanks for the good words and watching my thread!

Tim: Very honored to get your comments on my build as I consider you as a Mentor. I will start a new thread for my last model but I need to take some new pictures since most have been lost after a crash of an OS update (However I still have some pictures of the construction). I want to include some comments for each picture an not just dropping pictures so it more time consuming but more entertaining for the interrested.

bykr : As far as I'm concern, the learning curve was like anything else with best results with practice. You must work slowly and use your imagination to create the parts since no plans are available. You also need a good variety of tooling for every specific application but at the end it worth the investment (at least for me...).

Moving to the bed, I did cut between the wheel openings and the tailgate to shorten the 8 feet FORD bed to make a 6 feet for the D100. I drilled a couple of brass pins for more strength. It would have been easier to shorten by the other end but I wanted to partially recover the rounded shapes of the wheel arches inside the box to insert the fender tubes for the huge Sportsman tires. I also wanted to temporarly keep the rear section of the FORD bed to be perfectly square while building the part opposite the back of the cabin (hope make sense to you…).30_Box_Cut.JPG.2748b58bad8fdcafce5dbf6fb61d723b.JPG

Using thin cardboard I sketched the Sweptline shapes and transfer the design to 0.020’’ styrene sheets. I glued 2 per side (one on top of each other) instead of a thicker piece of 0.040’’ since it’s easier to keep it rounded. I also relocated the wheel openings and reshaped them like the D100 are.31_Sweptline_Sketch.JPG.c8daa51fe839b63fbf97e39b851f4970.JPG

Side view with embossing done around the wheel opening and the Sweptline body line (still some fine tuning and sanding to be done).31b_Box_Final_1.JPG.937d2b78f3a1ce2f4cac0f7a246a40db.JPG

View of the embossing and details between the cab (again may not be visible but done for the sake…). Note the bottom of the fenders are rounded towards the inside to emulate the real thing.31c_Box_Final_2.JPG.a4b785325b27d16b0d839983c884d11d.JPG

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Hello all, another small update,

Claude: One of the best part of the forum is sharing tricks and we all learn something from each other. If I can inspire someone then I'm super happy! Thanks for following and keep going your excellent work!

Scott, Joe, Rooster and Jason: Thanks for your good words (and funny animation) they keep me motivated!

Some pictures of the work in progress on the cab

Inner fenders and radiator support in place. The ribs on inner fenders are made with 0.040'' half round styrene strips.


Different angle of view. You can also notice the hood hinges nests near the firewall, I made them similar to the real ones. I might be attempted to make functional hinges, we’ll see… Sorry again for the blurry picture...


View of the engine bay, you can also see the radiator bracket reinforcement (made with 0.020’’ brass rod). I will make the radiator with brass for thi project.


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Wow, such a detailed project you certainly have some skills !

Looking forward to seeing your other builds, and also more progress on this one !

With all the details on the back of the cab etc why don't you add a tilt bed ?  Show off all the rear axle and wide rubber ? 


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Srephen: It would be very tuff to make a mold of this project because of all undercuts and nooks. I make it as an exclusive kit but I'm sure that I would be able to make money with copies but it's not the goal. Thanks for the good words!

Lorne: Thank for the comments. Your wishes will be filfuled since I plan to put a big HEMI under the hood and fat tires on the back (keep watching...).

Rooster: All my references are from internet searches. Just enter 61-65 Dodge D100 on Google and go to images, you will see a lot of sites full of pictures. I also search on auctions sites like eBay Motor for pictures of parts listed by sellers. Thanks for watching!

Martin: I thought about it but I will put a roll cage in the bed that will connect with the section inside the cabin (will pass by the back window). I can't make a tilt bed for that reason but good suggestion anyway. I will make another thread for my last builds but it's time consuming since I want to put comments with the pictures. Thanks for your good words!

Keep watching, I will post new pictures next week-end!!!

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Hello all!

Bob, Håkan, Henry: Thanks for the good words and watching!

My work week as jus ended, so it's time for a little update on the pickup:

Back fender tubs are made with 0.020’’ styrene sheet. I wrapped the styrene sheet around a 1 1/4’’ socket with rubber band in order to get both identical.35_Back_Fender_Tubs.JPG.1a5f0e4d5de3f98a431fe14db3511818.JPG

I filled the FORD’s taillights and drill a holes for the round D100’s taillights. I made the surround with a styrene tube and profiled the shape with sand paper on the lathe.36_Taillight_Scratch.JPG.11c32f93ed9173a43c2fef70def5eb66.JPG

I drawn the DODGE letters for the tailgate on a 0.015’’ sheet and cut them on the milling. I didn’t cut edge to edge and kept few thousandths to finish the work by hand.37_Tailgate_Lettering.JPG.f1fa3727aae41fa996ef958aae5f7464.JPG

I sanded off the FORD letters and glued the DODGE letters one by one using liquid cement (Bondene). I sanded the edges at angle to create the embossing effect.38_Tailgate_Lettering_Glued.JPG.53ab29b7f72af66f082e877f71c1e4a2.JPG

 The tailgate is functional (sorry for the out of focus picture)39_Tailgate_Opening.JPG.d01ed1086afb153bacb57296e8c9a5c4.JPG

Closer. I did use wristwatch pins as hinge so the tailgate is easily removable and works like a charm!40_Tailgate_Opening_CloseUp.JPG.1c22c9b80ab88fd9b8b0d2bc3f502436.JPG

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